I'm rebuiding a woods buggy and have ran into a head scratcher. I've installed a new set of Lou's boxed stk x stk rear trailing arms. New bushings and wheel bearings. The torsion house has bad splines so I am using a long travel conversion with hyme joint. The rear wheels are toed out like a duck. How do i line them up? Here's a pic of what I'm building. THANKS !! Added:: I've loosened the spring plate bolts and pulled the axle back some but it needs more, can the spring plate bolts be notched out to give more adjustment ? Where the axle needs to be will put a good angle on the joint.

Don't know exactly what your setup looks like but, on a stock setup u adjust toe by loosening the trailing arm bolts at the spring plate and move the tire forward or backward to adjust toe. hope this helps good luck.

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when in doubt use the skinny pedal!

I used the heims on the spring plate eliminator to adjust mine

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I don't see why u can't notch them. factory spring plates are notched. as far as the axle put it where it needs to be then get the tire off the ground and spin it over by hand and see if u have any binding in the cv. make sure you have the correct axles for your setup. that is all i can think of

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when in doubt use the skinny pedal!

once you get your spring plates adjusted there is an extra hole or holes in the arm you can drill through the spring plate to keep it locked in place. so youll end up with 4 or 5 spring bolts instead of 3.ive also had to notch my spring plates. hope this helps.

Are they toed out at the top.you have a right and left side arm.if you have them backwards they will toe out a lot more at the top.I'm assuming you added the shock mounting bracket is why I'm saying this and that they are also stock boxed.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

If they lean in or out at the top, that is called "camber".

Isnt the toe adjustable on that setup by running you heim joints further in or out of where they thread into the spring plates?

Thanks ! Gonna drag out the die grinder tonite and put the axle where it needs to be. The other side is lining up without any problem at all. Could the torsion housing be tweeked a little. I've checked to make sure the trans (3 rib) is square to the buggy, and it is.

with the stuff u have u shouldnt have to grind anything u can use the hiem joint to adjust u should have at least a half inch there if thats not enough that torsion must be bent pretty bad

I was looking at your pic and it looks like the swing arm sticks way up over the torsion eliminater.will that not hit on your torsion housing limiting your travel?or is it one of those optical illusions.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

what about the washers at the trailing arm pivot bolt they too will change the toe if u put both of them towards the trans (inside) it will move stub axle towards trans thus changing toe

i agree with buggiejunkie. with your spring plate setup you should be able to get all your adjustment from your heims. if you move all the washers to the outside itll give you alittle toe in but if you still dont have enough slot the holes. had to do this before and yes the torsion was bent pretty bad but it still worked out fine.

Those spring plate adapters are pretty long,,,if you still need toe adjustment after screwing the heims all the way in you can cut or grind off the ends to make them spring plate eliminators shorter,,then screw the heim in further. . Make sure your torsion tube is secure to the frame all the way to the end of it just behind the torsion plate.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I wouldn't suggest doing that. The face of the threaded shaft the heim screws into needs to be square to the threads for the nut to properly seat against. If you were to grind the face, the nut wont seat itself and will never stay tight. The strength of the stem of the heim is dependent of the nuts ability to stay tight against a square face.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
M
A
G
A

I did not realize that,,I did not use the nut,,,,maybe that is why I broke a 28,000 strength heim flush with the eliminator. Perhaps a machinist could make sure the face is square.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

i got to wandering after we left that night marty if maybe the nut had worked loose, i hadnt even noticed it wasnt even a nut on the other end, mike is right, if the nut dont seat square it will most likely break, and no nut at all causes the threads to loose and then its as bad or worse than a "crooked" nut, ive already been through all that with the 4 link setup on the crawler i had

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I better fix mine.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I'm gonna try this on the right side and that will sure give more toe out. And allow for more threads from the heim joint. Theres barely enuff threads otherwise. (5/8 inch )

Don't know how to do the quote thing, but you said, " you centered the three rib". How? You have to measure at the CV flanges as the dif is off set and not center to the trans.

I was able to cut mine off with a chop saw and then use the chop saw to grind it to a very flush fit with the jam nut.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

well i'm back at it again.
i got a question, "can the rear axle nut be over tightened on an irs w/disc's ?"
with my torque buddy, i'm prbly at or above 300 ftlb's
when i had about 230 ftlb's on the nut, i had to tighten it way more to get the cotter pin hole to line up.

This is a list from Chirco it says 253ft lbs for the stub axle. At 300 ft lbs does the wheel still spin freely?

Part ………….ft-lb …….size (dia x pitch)
Engine
Connecting rod nut -24 -m 9×1
Connecting rod capscrew -32 -m 9×1
Crankcase nut -14 -m8
Crankcase nut -25 -m 12×1.5
Cylinder head nut -8 -mm 18 m 8
Cylinder head nut -10- mm 23 m 10
Rockershaft nut -18 -m 8
Heat Exchanger at head -14- m 8
Muffler Clamp bolts -7 -m 6
Intake manifold nut -14 -m 8
Preheat-flange bolt -7 -m 6
Oil Pump nut -14 -m 8
Oil Pump nut -9 -m 6
Oil Drain plug -25- m 14×1.5
Oil Strainer nut -5 -m 6
Oil cooler nut -5 -m 6
Oil filler gland nut- 40
Flywheel Gland nut -235 -m 28×1.5
Clutch bolt -18 -m 8×1.5
Sparkplug -25 m -14×1.25
Engine to trans nut -22 -m 10
Crossmember bolt -18 -m 8
Crossmember bolt -29 -m 10
Generator pulley nut -43 -m 12×1.5
Fan nut -43 -m 12×1.5
Crankshaft pulley nut -32 -m 20×1.5
Crossmember to body -18 -m 8
Fan/Crankshaft pulley -94-108 -m 20×1.5


Front Axle and Steering
Front Beam to pan bolts -36
Body to beam bolts -14
Shock to beam sideplate -14-m 10
Shock to beam sideplate -25- m 12
Shock to lower torsion arm -25
Steering damper to front beam bolt -32
Steering damper to tie rod -18
Tie rod to castle nut -18
Tie rod nut -18
Clamp for tie rod bolt -11
Lock nut for torsion set screw -36
Wheel bearing clamp screw -10
Steering ball joint to knuckle -51
Steering box to front beam -22
Steering coupler to worm shaft -18
Pitman arm to shaft bolt -51
Locknut for pitman arm adj screw -18
Lock nut for worm spindle adj screw -42
Steering box housing cover bolt -18
Canceling ring to steering wheel -3.5
Steering wheel nut -36
Steering column to dash bolts -7
Column switch to attach plate -7
Column switch clamp to housing -7
Steering coupling flange to disc -11
Column to couple flange bolt -11

Manual Transaxle
Drive pinion round nut ball bearing -87
Drive pinion round nut roller bearing -144
Pionion retainer nut -36
Pinion nut -43
Drive shaft nut -43
Reverse lever guide bolt -14
Selector fork bolt -18
Gearshift housing nuts -11
Ring gear bolts – 43
Final drive cover nuts -22
Axle tube retainer nuts -14
Rear wheel bearing retainer nut -43
Oil drain plug -14
Oil filler plug -14
Rear axle shaft nut -217
Transaxle to frame bolt -166

Master cylinder
Stop screw in housing bolt -7
Residual pressure valve to housing -14
Brake light switch -14
Master cylinder to to frame bolts -18
Brake line to master cylinder -18

Front Brakes
Splash sheild to steering knuckle bolts -7
Wheel cylinder to backing plate -18
Caliper housing screw (disc brake) -18
Backing plate bolt -36
Caliper mounting bolts (disc brake) -29
Bleeder valve -9
Clamp nut screws -9
Hose to wheel cylinder/caliper -14

Rear Brakes
Wheel cylinder to backing plate- 22
Bearing housing bolts -43
Brake drum to axle bolt -253
Lug nut 14mm -94
Lug nut 12mm -72

Pedal assembly
Pedal bracket to frame -32
Pedal stop to frame bolts -18

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I think I can, I think I can....

it does turn, but it is definately harder than before.

You could put a washer behind the nut to take up some of the thread.

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I think I can, I think I can....

That's what i'm gonna do tonite. I'm not happy with the rotor being so much harder to turn. With the torque buddy it's not hard to get something waay too tight I guess.