Okay... I have never set up power steering before. I bought a howe pump and rack and sweet control valve. I am trying to find out if there is any tricks to mounting the ram. I am mounting the ram on the drivers side. Do I just turn the wheel all the way to the right and make the mounts for the ram in its fully retracted position? Are there any other tips anyone can think of to make sure this goes smoothly? Thanks

The Ram needs to be mounted so that at the extream ends the rack also stops. I Installed the stop kit on my Saco rack so I could adjust them at each end. Make sure you double shear the Ram mount on the frame. Also do not just weld it to the outer lower tube, it will twist the tube. Extend your mount to the diagonal if you have one. If not add it. Or you could use two 3/16" X 1 1/4" pieces of steel vertically between the top and bottom frame tubes. The Howe Ram has a tremendous amout of torque and it needs the support.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Thanks for the response. Nice looking buggy. I plan on going heavy on the mount. My rack has adjustable stops on it. I have them adjusted all the way out because my steering can go that far but I am assuming that is fine as long as the stops still do their job. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any surprises.

Yea as long as the stops stop at the same point on both ends of the Ram your good to go. Cycle the steering from one end to the other and set the ram up in the middle so your strokes are even on both sides. I am sure you knew that already however thought i would add it.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Sell all that crap and get a Char-lynn torx gen

OK, the ram does have slightly more travel than the rack so orienting it in the center makes sense. rockrockets1....That sounds like a coilovers vs. torsions argument that could go for days. I will give you extra credit for that avatar though. I hear AC/DC singing "Big Gun" everytime I see it. I looked at the charlynn setup and everybody I called to do reasearch said I would like the ram setup better on the street(and on 80/94 at 90mph). Until that charlynn kit comes with truck sized u joints in the steering to handle all that stress I will stick with the ram. If it works good on an old ford unibody.... It'll work good for me.

I agree with Rock,,,because I have the char lynn and love it but try the ram,,,if it dont feel comfortable it will be easy to take off and try the torque generator later..good luck

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Note that the torqe generator transmits all the load thru the Rack were as the ram setup transmits the load thru the tie rods. The Torque Generator is a cheaper way to go up from however I would think replacing the rack sooner that need would be a deciding factor. I had considered the Torque Generator in the begining however after researching it I did not like the twitchynes compared to the Ram setup. The reality of it is I have never tryed the Torque Generator and have no Empircal data to pull from. The way I see it for the poster is you have the Ram setup, Use it.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I had the ram set up on a buggy [Conventional]type if never snatched out of my hand but it really never had power ,,,just like an assist set up. Now the TG set up it will turn no matter what Karen's buggy is over 10 years old and never had any rack problems and it has a econo rack on it ....My buggy is 11 years old never had a rack problem with 7.50/16 yes 16 on the front of a chain drive and if you run stock arms or spindles they will bend the first ride ,,,there is so much pressure on the front compared to a conventional type buggy...But yea if he already has is then yea use it ..But breaking a rack is not a issue

Rock, when I had the Sweet Ram and Sweet stock pump parts on my Buggy in the begining I had similar experience as you. It was like power assist. I now have the Howe Ram and 3.5 GPM pump and i can steer with 2 fingers. One handed all day long in tight fast Woods. The rocks and stumps do not faze it.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

All right take ten steps..... turn.... and fire. Odyknuck... your description of my future steering has my wrists singing praises. I will put my two sense in on this in about a month when I have an engine to run the pump to run the ram. In the mean time thanks for the posts.

Me and Ody have discussions not problems ....Ody yours works better than the one I had then

Its on!! but seriously, there is no need to argue. The charlyne is clearly the better choice

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Yea these types of dicussions are like the Ford/Chevy thing. Every one has there own preferences. It comes down to what workds for you. Both systems do work and that gives you a choise, however the Ram system is the best way to go.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I am running the Howe ram setup on my new buggy that I am building. I talked to the guys at Howe and they said to make sure to run a internal stop, that the ram would destroy the rack if all you use are the stops built into the rack. I setup my ram so that when the ram was closed there was about a 1/4" left of travel in the rack. Then I turned the rack the other way and extended the ram all the way out, I measured how far the ram went past where it mounts on the rack. Then all you need is a piece of 5/8 id aluminum tube, cut it a 1/4" longer then your measurement. Then screw the top off the body of your ram, take the nut and washers off the bottom of the shaft and slide the piece of aluminum tube on the shaft. Reassembly and you now have your internal stop. Here is a pic of mine.

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When in doubt, Hit the Gas!!!!!!!

My build, http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =23&t=9147

Thanks, that sounds easy enough. What thickness tubing would be strong enough for the job.

I used 5/8" id, 1/8" wall aluminum tube. That is what they use at howe.

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When in doubt, Hit the Gas!!!!!!!

My build, http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =23&t=9147