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 Post subject: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:32 pm 
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Thinking about trying to put calipers on each rear wheel. One will be reg. Break other will be the cutters cutters will have it's own system master cylinder and all. I figure this way I should always have breaks. Wanted to see what u guys thought

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:43 pm 
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I see no reason why it wouldn't work. The only thing I would consider would be the weight involved for two calipers, unless they were both aluminum.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:51 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
I see no reason why it wouldn't work. The only thing I would consider would be the weight involved for two calipers, unless they were both aluminum.

One would still be Nissan was thinking empi for the cutter

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:56 pm 
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Check Summit's pricing on Willwood calipers. Better than EMPI (JUNK)

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:59 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Check Summit's pricing on Willwood calipers. Better than EMPI (JUNK)

Ok

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:14 pm 
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firebug has a post on here with his two caliper setup.chad :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:17 pm 
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Interesting idea.. I guess you would not have to worry about a brake failure..

I would stay away from anything empi.. You also need to make sure you buy at least a dual piston caliper. I had floating calipers and they could not stop the rear tire very well.

I now have 4 piston calipers and they work great

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:18 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Check Summit's pricing on Willwood calipers. Better than EMPI (JUNK)

x2 also try http://www.poske.com ,they have alot of wilwood and howe stuff usally on clearance.chad :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:32 pm 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
Interesting idea.. I guess you would not have to worry about a brake failure..

I would stay away from anything empi.. You also need to make sure you buy at least a dual piston caliper. I had floating calipers and they could not stop the rear tire very well.

I now have 4 piston calipers and they work great


Dan a bunch of us run chevy truck floaters and they work great. Depends on style and brand i would think.

Andrew I like the idea, be nice if you could do the cutters inboard, takes the stress off of the cv joints.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:44 pm 
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http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =10&t=8777

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:52 pm 
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nitro_mudder wrote:
MickeyMouse wrote:
Interesting idea.. I guess you would not have to worry about a brake failure..

I would stay away from anything empi.. You also need to make sure you buy at least a dual piston caliper. I had floating calipers and they could not stop the rear tire very well.

I now have 4 piston calipers and they work great


Dan a bunch of us run chevy truck floaters and they work great. Depends on style and brand i would think.

Andrew I like the idea, be nice if you could do the cutters inboard, takes the stress off of the cv joints.



I don't have the machine for this but I know someone who does. If he wants to ponder on making it work.I know it wouldn't be cheap but willing to pay if it'll work

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:11 am 
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nitro_mudder wrote:

Andrew I like the idea, be nice if you could do the cutters inboard, takes the stress off of the cv joints.


You would be doing just the opposite, loading the cv's that is. With the brakes at the end of the drive line, the cv's are not affected by the brake action.
The problems I see with in board rotor/caliper would be;
Rotor interference with starter and frame horns unless it were a real small rotor, then what's the point.
Shorter axle length to accommodate the gizmo to mount the rotor, shorter axle means less travel.
Blow up a cv you have no cutting brakes on that side.
The only positive thing I see would be less un-sprung weight. And who here worries about that, besides me?
Mount a second caliper like Firebug did and be done with it.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:48 am 
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Mike an inboard cutter would not have the cv between the brakes and the engine torque. Now if you only use them when off the throttle I agree, depends how you are ussing them. In tight trails we use them alot at slow speeds to make the turn, that is where we put the load on the cv joints. And as far as the room goes, you are right, there is none now that i look. Wouldnt be worth the hassle.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 1:33 am 
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Not exactly. When you grab the cutting brake you are doing two things. First you are diverting power inside the trans by stopping or slowing a drive flange. The second thing your doing is stopping or slowing the ground speed of the tire on that side. Since the cv's are in between the in board rotor/caliper and the tire, the cv's are being loaded.
I'm guessing here that your thinking that loading can't be as much because of the power transfer inside the trans, not exactly. It takes little energy to divert the power in the trans and a great deal to slow or stop the tire, which by the way is connected to the rest of the car. The loading would be the same as if it were a out board rotor/caliper using the cutting brake under power.
The ONLY advantage of an in board rotor/caliper would be a lighter un-sprung weight.
I could be wrong here, I don't think so but I'm thinking a mechanical engineer would need to sort it out for me.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:05 am 
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MadMike wrote:
Not exactly. When you grab the cutting brake you are doing two things. First you are diverting power inside the trans by stopping or slowing a drive flange. The second thing your doing is stopping or slowing the ground speed of the tire on that side. Since the cv's are in between the in board rotor/caliper and the tire, the cv's are being loaded.
I'm guessing here that your thinking that loading can't be as much because of the power transfer inside the trans, not exactly. It takes little energy to divert the power in the trans and a great deal to slow or stop the tire, which by the way is connected to the rest of the car. The loading would be the same as if it were a out board rotor/caliper using the cutting brake under power.
The ONLY advantage of an in board rotor/caliper would be a lighter un-sprung weight.
I could be wrong here, I don't think so but I'm thinking a mechanical engineer would need to sort it out for me.


Looks like back to plan a

This makes since. Back to

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:13 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Not exactly. When you grab the cutting brake you are doing two things. First you are diverting power inside the trans by stopping or slowing a drive flange. The second thing your doing is stopping or slowing the ground speed of the tire on that side. Since the cv's are in between the in board rotor/caliper and the tire, the cv's are being loaded.
I'm guessing here that your thinking that loading can't be as much because of the power transfer inside the trans, not exactly. It takes little energy to divert the power in the trans and a great deal to slow or stop the tire, which by the way is connected to the rest of the car. The loading would be the same as if it were a out board rotor/caliper using the cutting brake under power.
The ONLY advantage of an in board rotor/caliper would be a lighter un-sprung weight.
I could be wrong here, I don't think so but I'm thinking a mechanical engineer would need to sort it out for me.


Mike you are correct on a moving bugy, no question. But I feel like I put more load on my 930's when we are stopped or barely moving and i have to lock up one tire and punch it in order to make a turn to go up a hill. Now in all fairness I am not sure I have ever needed to do that at wellsville do to the wide open nature of the trails. Also I dont think my tree bars have hever hit anything there other then a rock lol. But where i do most of my rideing it is very tight and we do alot of almost stopped 90 deg turns so that is what is in my head when I thought of this concept. So as with anything else off-road related, the location, style and type of driving dictates what works best. And I am man enough to admit that inboard would not be a benifit in alot if not most buggy driving. It would only benifit in accleration cutting versus cutting at speed. I still liked the debate Mike, made me think a lil on here :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:52 pm 
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Still gives more stress as the whole buggy frame is trying to drag that wheel forwards...


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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:13 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Mount a second caliper like Firebug did and be done with it.

X2. Chad :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:54 am 
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gasman wrote:
MadMike wrote:
Mount a second caliper like Firebug did and be done with it.

X2. Chad :mrgreen:

I'd sell my 4 caliper set up for 6k and throw in a buggy :wink: ,,,

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:29 am 
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Lol, thats funny Marty. And I agree, do the setup like Marty's but seperate fluid systems. Only downside I see is more bleeding and a little weight. But nice to have a backup brake setup.

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 Post subject: Re: dual rear breaks
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:39 pm 
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nitro_mudder wrote:
Lol, thats funny Marty. And I agree, do the setup like Marty's but seperate fluid systems. Only downside I see is more bleeding and a little weight. But nice to have a backup brake setup.



This is what going to try. Bleeding no biggy power bleed and done in 5 min

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