has anybody ever used por15 paint on a frame? if so what ya think?

I painted my packrat frame with it and it sucks, not even worth the money or effort to use it, everytime I wash the buggy, the paint flakes off different spots everytime and had to spray bomb it to cover it up. Powdercoat is the only way to go.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I am sure everyone has different opinions on paint. I have tried commercial enamels and epoxies and nothing seems to work that well. After a few rocks, nothing holds up. I finally gave up and I just rattle cans.

The enamel engine paint cans work pretty well.

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i got some rattle can tractor and implement paint from tractor supply and just done a little test strip across the front bumper and after it set a few days it got whacked pretty hard with a wrench and it barely chipped it

and the only "prep" work was to wipe the dirt off with my hand

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

lol i rattle caned my buggy and every time i pressure washed it pait blew off, at one point half of my buggy was primer gray. it is soon to be powdercoated

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Awesome 2387 Beeline Cobra

I use Rustoleum engine enamel in a rattle can. It drys hard and stays on pretty well. When it does chip it is easy to cover again.

I have ever had good luck with powder coats. They always seems to chip and then it is impossble to touch it up and make it match. Not worth the money as far as I am concered if your going to be in the woods beating your ride up.

Best paint I've ever used was Sherman William industrial paint.the guy put an additive in the primer that made it hard yet it sorta flexed if that makes sense.you could hit it with a hammer it would dent but not chip.that frame is still holding the orange color good not much fade thats been on it since 95 other than the stump bars and normal wear it looks as good if not better than most powder coat jobs with same abuse and age.the prep work and primer is what makes a big difference .buy the time you buy high quality paint,time,and labor.it's as bout as cheap to powder coat,but I weld and break and change things to much for powder I think.and with powder it's harder to touch up and get it to match.spray bomb the cheapest but like everything you get what you pay for.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

I use chassis saver it work great!

I agree with Gasman.If anybody cares about my 2cents,I like that brush on industrial paint at Lowes(silver can in qts or gals). It comes in red(Passat aka Dirty Girl)) gray, silver, black, white and fire hydrant yellow,(Der Panzerwagen), maybe a few others . Get thru welding , open the can ,smear and boom. It blends in well and spray cans get all over other stuff. It is made to be its own primer and is very tough.A gal is $28 and 1/2 will paint a whole buggy.Your brush will make it go on all streaky , but while it is dring it will blend in smooth .It is so thick it loves to fill in old ugly weld jobs.And it is glossy and looks nice and tough looking.That HAMMERED paint in a spray can right beside it on the shelf makes trans, torsions and front ends look GREAT!I'm just talking to po fokes, powder coats do look nice!

Carl: Duzzit come in mustird yeller? mmhmm

I had some alum boat parts powder coated and was really disappointed.
Once you get a chip in it and the salt air starts reacting w/ the alum, it just comes off in flakes.
...and is a bitch to touch up....and you can't mod it after it's done.

What I found worked well for harsh environ was to use a self etching zinc primer, and then cover w/ appliance epoxy, both in rattle cans, the epoxy really didn't make much since to me (in my head) cause it's only a one part spray, but whatever, it is very, very chip resistant, and flows and fills well. Colors are pretty limited as it's for kitchen stuff.

My wife wants me to re-spray the buggy w/ silver metallic, but I'm a little concerned about touch ups.

I think rustoleum industrial will be the way I go (or rhino line it and be done w/ it).

I know alot of the car resto guys swear by the POR 15 for rust control, tho.
.02

Ive used por 15 and chassis saver not on buggies but other frames and projects.. I like chassis saver a little more just for the fact that its sold locally and cheaper. It seems to hold just as good.. Just remember most chassis paint is uv light sensitive and requires a top coat.. Also por 15 and chassis saver is to be put on over rusted up metal. If you put it on bare metal rust can actually bleed through the paint. If your going that route you need to use a three step process.