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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:30 pm 
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which is the better aluminum engine case ? autocraft or auto linea

ive heard that one of these companys make most of the cases for cb, empi, and bugpack but cant remeber which one and was wondweing which one is better or which one most people use?

http://www.autocraftengines.com/

http://www.autolinea.com.br/en_lightline.php

also who makes the rimco aluminum case or do manufacture thier own along with autocraft and auto linea making for a total of 3 aluminum case manufacturers?

http://rimcovw.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:23 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
which is the better aluminum engine case ? autocraft or auto linea

ive heard that one of these companys make most of the cases for cb, empi, and bugpack but cant remeber which one and was wondweing which one is better or which one most people use?

http://www.autocraftengines.com/

http://www.autolinea.com.br/en_lightline.php

also who makes the rimco aluminum case or do manufacture thier own along with autocraft and auto linea making for a total of 3 aluminum case manufacturers?

http://rimcovw.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21

Auto craft are hi $ race cases auto linea makes cb empi & bugpack. I do not no about rimco? Scat has won to.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:07 pm 
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Unless you are building a 4" bore engine the Autocraft and Scat race cases are unecessary IMHO.
I like mag cases up to 84-86 stroke.
After that it's the CB raised deck aluminum case hands down.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:51 pm 
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I went with the cb mag case to help control the heat.. I hope it will work out well but only time will tell..

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:06 pm 
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turboblue wrote:
Unless you are building a 4" bore engine the Autocraft and Scat race cases are unecessary IMHO.
I like mag cases up to 84-86 stroke.
After that it's the CB raised deck aluminum case hands down.


how big of a engine can be built with the cb case ? im assuming 94 jugs but how big of a crank will fit or is made that will work with this case?

also is there any particular reason you prefer the mag case up to 86 stroke or is it just a personal preferance?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:17 am 
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Get any one of the auto lina cases. The auto craft and the scat are 3-4 times more expensive! I would never screw with a mag case again. I have 2 full race seasons on my alum case and it still has perfect thrust!! I couldnt make it 2 races without beating the thrust out of my mag case. the alum is much stronger, but it is also heavier.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:49 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
turboblue wrote:
Unless you are building a 4" bore engine the Autocraft and Scat race cases are unecessary IMHO.
I like mag cases up to 84-86 stroke.
After that it's the CB raised deck aluminum case hands down.


how big of a engine can be built with the cb case ? im assuming 94 jugs but how big of a crank will fit or is made that will work with this case?

also is there any particular reason you prefer the mag case up to 86 stroke or is it just a personal preferance?


I like mag cases because they are lighter and not porous like some sand cast aluminum cases.
Admittedly quality control has gotten better on those in recent years though.
Beating the thrust out is the exception rather than the rule in most situations.
CB's raised deck bubble top case is probably the best version out there IMHO.
We've done 2498cc (94x90) engines in those without too much extra work.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:15 am 
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which is the better 86mm crank cb or dpr?

also is there anybody that makes a 88mm or 90mm crank besides dpr?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:15 am 
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scat. but I think they have all type 4 mains and are flanged

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:02 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
which is the better 86mm crank cb or dpr?

also is there anybody that makes a 88mm or 90mm crank besides dpr?


DMS makes one too.
Be sure if you buy a welded 90mm you get it full circle.
The cross section between the main and rod journals are so far apart they will flex.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 5:29 am 
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im just kicking around a few ideas right now and trying to get a game plan and maybe a few parts together for my next project and im just wanting to make sure that i get the right parts and good quality parts the first time around beacause i would sure hate to have a "ticking time bomb" if you know what i mean and ruin some good parts because of a junk part that i used, its like been said on here before "buy the best and cry once" or however that goes

im assuming that dms means demmelo and if so i thought i had read somewhere that they made big cranks but i couldnt them on thier website, also are the dms,cb,and dpr cranks all equal in quality or is one better than the other?

thanks racebug AND turboblue for all the info

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Last edited by ridenrace6 on Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:11 pm 
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This is the DMS site:
http://www.demellocranks.com/
They list 90mm stroke in the pricing section but I am not sure that is current.

CB doesn't offer anything other than the imported crank in a larger stroke.
86 is it AFAIK.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:50 am 
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turboblue wrote:
CB doesn't offer anything other than the imported crank in a larger stroke.
86 is it AFAIK.


could you explain that last part and is cb's imported crank not a new forged crank that they have made to thier specs and what do mean by " imported crank in a larger stroke " just that 86mm is a large as they sell or that anything larger than 86mm is imported?

i hate to keep asking questions especially about the same thing but i just dont want to end up with junk parts if you know what i mean

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:02 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
turboblue wrote:
CB doesn't offer anything other than the imported crank in a larger stroke.
86 is it AFAIK.


could you explain that last part and is cb's imported crank not a new forged crank that they have made to thier specs and what do mean by " imported crank in a larger stroke " just that 86mm is a large as they sell or that anything larger than 86mm is imported?

i hate to keep asking questions especially about the same thing but i just dont want to end up with junk parts if you know what i mean



I think the China cranks are all that is available from CB in a stroke up to 86.
They are new forged pieces.

AFAIK = as far as I know.

You mentioned maybe wanting a 90mm.
That is where you have to go to a welded crank from DPR or DMS for a T-1 crank.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:32 pm 
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I wouldnt be afraid of a "china" crank from CB. I havnt heard of many issues with them. Several guys I race with run them.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:58 pm 
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thanks turboblue and racebug that pretty much explains and any and all questions i have/had on the crank and case issues

ive got a 2332 with the scat vw journal 84mm crank and it is supposed to be the high dollar one not the cheaper one in a new stock fuel injected case ( no place for a fuel pump ) and ive been told i can put a c.b. chevy journal 86mm crank in without any more clearancing of the case so that is probably what i will do for one of my buggies

and for my other buggy i will probably get one of the cb aluminum cases and put in a 90mm chevy journal crank just got to decide on which brand

also i need to figure out what length rods for each motor ( i dont understand all this rod ratio stuff, ivepeople talk about sqare, over square, and under sqare ) and im sure i need h-beam just got to figure out which brand is better to use

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:49 pm 
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I'm not afraid of China cranks either.
There are less expensive places to buy them though.

DPR is a good choice on the 90mm crank.
I would use the CB 5.7" rods with that crank.
Just because they come with the ARP 2000 bolts already installed.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:12 pm 
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turboblue wrote:
I'm not afraid of China cranks either.
There are less expensive places to buy them though.

DPR is a good choice on the 90mm crank.
I would use the CB 5.7" rods with that crank.
Just because they come with the ARP 2000 bolts already installed.

I have run a china crank 86mm from Drews for 3 years . & i would use a 5.7 rod on 90 crank like Gary


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:00 pm 
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thanks turboblue and hyde

which rod should i use for the 86mm crank?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:08 pm 
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I am runing 5.7 on 86 crank & like it 1.68 rod to stroke ratio close to 327 chevy &302 ford but 5.6 would but good to at 1.65 rod to stroke ratio close to 350 chevy & 347 ford . You can have your 84 offsetground to 86 & 2'' journals for about $125 + new rods


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:07 pm 
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hyde wrote:
I am runing 5.7 on 86 crank & like it 1.68 rod to stroke ratio close to 327 chevy &302 ford but 5.6 would but good to at 1.65 rod to stroke ratio close to 350 chevy & 347 ford . You can have your 84 offsetground to 86 & 2'' journals for about $125 + new rods


what is the formula for figureing this and how does this affect the power/rpm range if any or is more or less just a wear/longevity thing?

also will one have a higher redline limit or less bottom end than the other?

this is some great info im getting thanks to all that have replied

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:44 am 
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Rod ratio formula is rod length center to center in inches divided by crank stroke in inches.
5.700 rod on an 86mm (86/25.4=3.385") has 1:68 ratio.
Longer rods move the powerband up.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:51 am 
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I'm not an engine tech guy, so my build was very slow. I hav'nt run it yet as I'm still doing the frame. Engine is a 2276 with 5.6 Chev "H' beam rods. I had read that the longer the stroke, the longer the rod should be to correct the approch angle and improve longevity. Can you explain how the longer rod moves the power band up? Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:48 pm 
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The longer the rod the more lazy your engine will be off of the bottom end. say you have a 1915 and a 2332. the 1915 has a stock stroke so it will turn up faster than the loger stoke 2332. I hope that makes sense. But what you have read is correct if you have a longer stroke you have to compensate with the rod or engine damage may occur. I have the same engine as you and I am running a 5.5 h beam with vw journals ,I think you will love your new engine I know I really enjoy mine :!: As far as the power range I would think what size cam you are running would also play a part in the power range. but what I think he is saying is you have more mass rotating so it takes longer to get it rotating therefore it moves your power band up or a least that is how I see It. I could be wrong :!:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:30 am 
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Ok, If it changes the power band. How much?


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