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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:52 pm 
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Location: Highland Heights,Kentucky
Larry i'll give you any crank you want, but dont ask me to do that to my buggy ever again,i like my old school technology,damn i cant spell :?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 1:14 am 
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a big 2500 wont help if you cant drive!! a big motor dont make you no hillclimber all it makes you is the guy at the bottom of the hill with a BIG motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:23 pm 
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That is true,i also believe it useless to build a big motor and not have the right gearing.I had a malibu with a 383 in it and it would'nt hardly get out of its own way until i put gears in it,but a set of gears for a car is only $200,a 16 rib cost $3000.I love big horsepower and im going to try and get every bit that i can out a 2332 for now and just go ride.If i cant climb a hill that someone else does i will congratulate them and finish my beer :D


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:02 am 
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that how i do it and just cuse u get a 2500 & a 2nd gear dont mean your a hillclimber i know of a few that have it and cant climb no more then someone with a 1641!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:22 pm 
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wildwillie wrote:
that how i do it and just cuse u get a 2500 & a 2nd gear dont mean your a hillclimber i know of a few that have it and cant climb no more then someone with a 1641!

I had some great times with a small motor.I remember the little 1776 you had on this buggy when you first got it done,that motor was highly impessive for its size.I also remember Clayton running a 1915 for a year or so and i still could'nt keep up with him,matter of fact,i flipped at cromer and got beat up pretty good trying to follow him.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:01 pm 
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Location: Highland Heights,Kentucky
Image Here is a pic of my new pwer plant.I gotta give a big thanks to Willie and Tammy for selling it to me,thanks guys.For those of you that have not met these 2,you are in for a treat,some of the nicest people you'll ever meet.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:55 pm 
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Location: Massillon, Ohio
specs?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:32 pm 
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2332 aluminum case,Scat crank,CB 5.7 Chevy rods,CB 044 heads with a little P&P,45mm Dellorto's, Bugpack 2-stage drysump pump.Was told the cam is a FK-89 but not sure.Im going to do some experimenting with the motor,im going to run it with the heads that are on it for a few rides,then im going to switch the 044's to Street Eliminators and see what the difference is,i should say how much differnce.I really want to switch the cam out but riding season is right around the corner,so i will see how it does first.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:47 pm 
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Location: tupelo ms
sounds like hell of motor.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:32 am 
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Good news,it has a 110 cam instead of a FK89 or VZ15.Shoowee i would have hated to have to tear it down to just change the cam.It also has a 1.25 rockers,but plan on upgrading to 1.4's.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:54 pm 
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i tihnk 1.25s with a 110 is the way to go. imo.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:02 pm 
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Location: mooers hill IN
Cheek the valve springs for coil bind 110 cam scat 1.4 are closes to 1.45 will have .568 lift at 1.45


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 4:23 pm 
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Alright guys,i have installed plenty of stub axles in the past and now i have a problem.I just put new bearings and seals in the trailing arms and i bought new 1 piece rotors.After installing everything the stub axle splines sticks out pass the flat spot that the axle nut tightens up against.My stub axles are type 1 drilled to type 2 and i have used them in another buggy,nothing wrong with them.I put all my spacers,bearings and seals in correct and this one has me stumped,i have never seen anything like it.the only thing i can think that might be wrong is the rotors,which i have already drilled holes into for a little weight loss so i cant take them back.Anybody have any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:47 pm 
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they make long and short axle rotors you just need a spacer to go on after the rotor to cover the splines .
you can make them by cutting them off a old drum of rear rotor


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:03 pm 
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aboone993 wrote:
they make long and short axle rotors you just need a spacer to go on after the rotor to cover the splines .
you can make them by cutting them off a old drum of rear rotor

I was trying to find some info on rotors but no luck.What do the short axle rotors fit?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:24 pm 
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swing axle and not sure what else . someone sells the spacers but I cant remember who appletree automotive mabe or empi


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:34 pm 
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http://www.appletreeauto.com/rr-brake-d ... -1868.html
here ya go


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:12 pm 
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harleyhunter05 wrote:
us buckeyes ought to make you relocate to WVa for comments like that :!: :shock: Lets see if that gets anything started :lol:
well you know that one time there was a fight between oh and wv.the buckeys would throw dynamite across the ohio river at us and we would light it and throw it back. :shock: .hahaha.chad :mrgreen:
and if you got that motor from willie it should be a good one and those rotors looks cool good job. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:28 pm 
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I dont quite now where half of that came from but thanks for the compliments and im from KY too,im just up here working.If it wasn't for Willie,Dakota and Larry i wouldn't be where im at today,i owe a lot to these guys.Thanks again aboone for the link.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:00 pm 
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aboone993 wrote:
they make long and short axle rotors you just need a spacer to go on after the rotor to cover the splines .
you can make them by cutting them off a old drum of rear rotor


There are 3 different axle lengths for swing axle. Those rotors should fit the short axles. Normally you had to cut 9/16" off the rotor to use em so you must need a 9/16" spacer. I didnt know they make rotors for those.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:39 pm 
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My rotors spline measure 2in. and the stubs are 2.75.Im going to have a friend make them for,thta way i 'll get them right the first time instead of buying the wrong stuff like i did with the rotors.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:16 pm 
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No big deal, nothing a little spacer won't fix! Sounds like you're makin good progress, Get 'er done and LET'S RIDE!!!

-Dakotah/koko

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keep on keepin' on!!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:05 pm 
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Im trying but these KP spindles are kicking my ass,i have went through 7 sawzall blades and am only 3/4 of the way through and i bought the Milwaukee "Torch" blades.I know it would have been cheaper to just buy KP rotors because the spuds are $40 and im going to go through $40 in blades easy to get these things cut off.Im gonna try some cut off wheels on my die grinder and see if they will do anything,i get boxes of them from a friend for free.Im looking for a good set of 4 lug wheels,just plain stock ones,if anybody close to me has any they want to part with let me know.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:20 am 
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Bucky, is your sawzall variable speed? It usually only takes two of those torch blades to get thru one spud. But you gotta run the blade a little slower and use a long blade so you can cut with different spots on the blade as you go thru, so you dont smoke it. A portaband is a lot easier though.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:31 pm 
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Yeah its a variable speed sawzall but i guess since i got the motor i have been in a hurry to get it done and i ran it wide open.I'll get them off one way or the other,only a few weeks to go.


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