ok i have a stock 1600 or atleast i think.. it has DP heads, a pict34 carb and 009 dist.. i'll get the vin by the gen. stand tomorrow.. is this the only vin that'll help?

what im really wanting to know is how big of a crank can i put in with the least amount of grinding? i've been searching around here and have gathered that a chevy journal and cb Hbeams will help so i plan to go that way but im thinking i want a 2054 74x94.. i cant find chevy journals in anything smaller than 82mm.. i am running a 3 rib plan on going to d&k very often when its finished..

w110, 1.25 rockers seems to be the favored set up... i plan on getting 044 heads. i want to make good power and be able to rev high.. i'd like to cheap out and run just one weber 44.. it will be getting a full MSD only way to go in my eyes...

what is everyones thoughts on this? i want it to be reliable and have power to do what i want in the buggy in my other thread... any opinions are welcome but im sticking with air cooled

if you keep your buggy real lite (but safe) you can buy a 78mm cb performance crank vw journal and a set of cb I- beam rods you can run H-beam rods if the money is there.a set of 44 heads and a single 40 weber.i've ran this set up before i use to have it on a dune buggy it was real lite at 950# was very fast. you could run a 44 weber and get some smaller jets just incase you ever wanted to go bigger later than you would only have to buy 1 more weber.Good luck. just about forgot that makes a 2165

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"It is easy to be brave from a safe distance."

If you are trying to build it on a budget,then your better off to build it as big as you can with duel carbs on it and 009 dist for now.You can always add the msd later. That will give you $600 more to put in your motor.I think the duels will give you more hp and throttle responce then the msd.Go ahead and buy a 84mm crank to go with your rods you have.The money you save on the rods will help make up the diff. on the crank.Grinding on your block don't cost anything.Make sure you have the rods checked first to make sure their not stretched.JMO

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IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT IN A LITTLE BUGGY,IT CAN'T BE CLIMBED

I agree. A good set of duals would be a better investment than the MSD if you have to choose one or the other. MSD is nice to keep your plugs clean and the extra lugging power it gives you, But if your carbs are tuned right the 009 with a pertronix ignitor will do great for now.

I with Larry on eng. I am no to far from you I can help grind on your block. call kevin at 812-584-7644

all i will need for msd is the distributor.. we had 2, AL2s out of our race cars that got upgraded to al3's and also have 1 6aL that i will probably use.... i would say my buggy will be on the heavy side for a 95" wheelbase but oh well..

im leaning toward a 2054 or 2165 for now.. H beams are going in it no matter what and good counterweighted crank.. i was hoping to be able to make power up to about 8500rpm if thats possible... i know its nothing for my iron duke to see 8400 and has been doing it over 6 years with h beams..

im hoping to make it reliable.. its my first buggy so i will only know if its enough power when its said and done if its not it will get a turbo. i got a 3 rib and plan to put atleast a super diff in it and run sway-a-ways

I'd say go with the 2054. My buddie has one in his rail with a 5 rib, and it just rips man. He has a jetted down 4 barrel on it

I have a set of new VW jornal Chromoly "H" beam rods along with a used 78 MM crank I would make you a deal on if your interested. Add a set of 94mm P & Cs and you got a 2165.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I ran a 78 stroke engine dual 40 dels and mofoco heads for 6 years and loved it. It had a lot more torque than the 1835 it replaced but wouldnt lug like a big engine but would rev quickly .I run a 2275 now on a lot heavier buggy and like it also .
Kinda like a 2 stroke dirt bike vs a big thumper 4 stroke bike both will get the job done which ever you go with !

if your going to cut your block to 94's why not spent the extra $100 and clearance the block for an 84MM crank while your at it. this way you dont have to come back in 2 years and make your engine bigger! a 110 cam is almost stock i run a 125 in my 2332 and it works well. bout a 5500 red line.

the only price difference between the smaller engine your wanting to build and a 2332 is the $100 it will cost to clearence the case (think about that and the long run!)

Clearance the case yourself and as for hitting 8500 rpm with a 3-rib is a huge feat to accomplish.All of these guys on here know what their talking about.A 78mm crank up to an 86mm cost the same,$289.There is nothing wrong with building a small motor or a big motor,that is up to you,but when you can get quite a few more pony's for the same price why not,but that's just me.Good luck on what ever you decide.

ok one more question is there any one block better than another? when i got my buggy the guy threw in another motor that was tore apart... i am hoping to build that block since everything else will be new.. all i know of the block is it had dp heads on it... if one is better i''ll use the best but would be nice to run the one i have until it blows.. it smokes bad but runs good so probably wont last long and its only a stocker..... probably wont turn the 31 boggers i will be running very well

i have access to a machine shop for all the boring and such but they have never built a vw so not too sure of where to clearance a block. its probably self explanatory i would say once i have the parts to test...

so i am pretty set pn building a 2176 or 2054... anyone have any suggestions on propane? a friend of mine had a 4 runner with a hopped up 22r and it screamed with propane and never missed a beat...

Just my opinion, if everything in your new motor will be new, do yourself a favor and sell the rest of the old junk and buy a NEW race ready case. Unless you have the machining capabilities available at next to no cost, you will have more in machine work and still have a 40 year old case. And if your machine shop has never done a VW case or heads, I would be skepticle to say the least. As the saying goes, buy the best and cry once. As far as 8500 rpm's goes, sounds as if your building a grenade and not a reliable woodsbuggy motor, but like I said in the beginning, just my opinion.

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Don't sweat the petty stuff, pet the sweaty stuff.

so how much clearancing if any is need to make a 2054 or 2176? i would like to have a slightly larger crank that stock..

i will probably end up building a new motor down the road but for now i want the most i can get with this block.. later on i'll buy a new one and build a big motor...

right now im thinking to just do a 1915 cause i know no clearancing needs done.. trying not to over power the stock block.

I'm also big on using all new parts. One of the new pre bored and clearanced bubble top aluminium cases come with the basic hardware and is ready for that 90x94 when you are. One the flip side if you have a known good case it should also offer good service. I have seen to many unknown cases with low oil pressure when hot, pulled case studs while assembling to reccomend one. Most 78 mm cranks fit in a case without clearancing if you use CB Unitech or Scat I beam rods. Unless your going to drive some of the places where I do dual Weber IDFcarbs make the most power. You also need good heads. Steve Tims Stage One heads at $590 a pair a quite a deal. Steve will also set up the springs for the cam you choose and port match your intakes for that price. A VZ 15 cam would be the way to go. A Web 86a or Engle FK 43 are also good choices.

I like w110 or c35 & 1.25 or fk42 & 1.4 Drews ported heads or you can come out & see my work & do your own.

so what are everyones thoughts on having a stock set of DP heads cut for dual springs and doing all the port work myself? i have been practicing on old 350 heads and P&P'd the heads for the motor i just built for my truck..

is there different heads to get from factory that one may be better than others? it seems these heads will be easy to work on cause of aluminum... i also have a set off a dissasembaled motor that i can practice on before the ones i'll use...

i'll be building a 1915 or 2054...

They will work port & cut for springs . look for cracks by the valvles first

Heads are some thing that can make or lose power. Depending on the type of driving your doing and other mods to your engine, ie carbs, stroke/displacement and cam size. Stock valve sizes may be restrictive. They should however run cooler. Many performance head castings have thicker port walls and larger flange sufaces. This allows for lots of modification but at the lose of cooling pasages so they'll run hotter.

Hayshaker
Many head porters like the 043 casting. For others it does not matter. A stock VW dual port head with 35.5mm intake and 32mm exhaust valves breathing throuigh 44 IDFs will flow 126 cfm at .450 lift and at .600-in lift the flow is 139cfm.
A how to link with pictures.
http://knol.google.com/k/modifying-vw-t ... rformance#

The trick is going to be making all four flow the same with out a way to measure air speed and cfm. Very fast air speed from small volume ports is what gives great throttle response. The Bergs and Steve Tims are two of the best porters when it comes to air speed. If you don't like how yours turn out Steve Tims Stage One heads should work great with a VZ 14 cam for the 1915 or VZ 15 for the stroker. Setting up your springs and match porting your intakes is included in the price. For a little more he can adjust the combustion chamber volume to get better deck height. Call and talk to Steve (http://performance-workshop.com) as he will want to know how your going to drtive it low speed twisty trail with short 200 foot straight aways or half to full throttle open trails, engine size, cam, carbs vehicle weight and gearing. Note how the port volume between the different heads does not change much, that will be you challenge if you port your own heads.

Going big won't hurt either. When using a pre race prepped aluminum case and all new parts a 90x94 is not much more than a 69x94 or 78.8x94.

DPRs standard 90 mm stroker crank is $440.00 his 78.8 mm stroke crank is $300. CB H beam rods are about $100 more than CB or Scat Unitech rods. I like the heavier crank but that is $200 more. For the 90x94 size engine with the VZ 15 cam you will need Stage Two heads with Stage One port volumes. Stage twos are $200 more than Stage ones.
Unless your a hardcore driver the 1915 should be plenty.