HI got a WEBER 44 single carb, on a newly rebuilt 1915 stroker motor, the thing will take gas and run smoothly at times, but starts spitting and sputtering, i rebuilt the carb twice! blowed out all passages with air hose, it has 044 heads with valves correctly adjusted, new plugs, wires, petronix with a 009 dist. new bosch blue coil, any suggestions when it starts spitting it wont take gas you have to pump the accelerator to go anywhere, once it does though the power comes on strong and smooth! ive checked everything it backfires thru carb at times! what is the correct ignition timing iming for a engine like this thanks

Street applications range from 28' total advance to 30' total advance. Off road applications will vary from 28' total advance to 34' total advance As per CB performance. I run my 2109 at 30 total.

Sounds like your carb has a idle circuit issue. Is your exhaust black. if so your idle is rich and flooding, reset the idle. REDLINE WEBER has a good tech page to help you out. If the exhaust is not black you may be lean on the idle same fix as above reset the idle.

What your compression psi? I like around 130-160 all cylinders should be within 5 psi.

I Know this isn't a lot of help but there's tons of things that will cause your problem, just start with finding out if you have to much fuel or not enough. Check your plugs and exhaust if black to much fuel if gray maybe not enough.. alittle rich is better than lean. by the way a 1915 is not a Stroker it uses 95 mm pistons and a stock crank, a good torqie motor I have one on my wifes rail with a 32/36 carb.. Good luck

HI my exaust is black and sooty in pipe, the plugs are also black dry soot, i havent ran compression test yet it is a fresh engine, whats the idle speed set at and the timing at correct idle speed suppose to be the block was clearenced and longer rods was installed in this motor, thanks for the reply

Longer rods are longer rods
stroker is larger crank
sounds like a carb problem
by the way NICE looking ride

HI thanks for the compliment i had to relook at my build sheet on motor i meant to say it had a 82mm crank 94 mm mahle forged pistons thanks for replying i think i will buy me a new carb and start fresh this one was used i guess you get what you pay for thanks

2275 thats even better....good luck ...carb problems are a pain in the a--

I have Duel Weber 44 Carbs. I love the power i get out of them. I also have the problem but it only starts happening after a long ride.

Thats a real nice ride! You should consider applying for "Buggy of the Month"

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

I know I'm a fuel injected, computer controlled, don't know squat about carbs, water pumper. But shouldn't he be running dual carbs for a 2275? I figure if he may end up riding with me I might as well try to help him get it running right.

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Buy the EMPI 44s they're alot cheaper than Weber and the same thing, parts match. I run them on my engine no issues. Get a good two stage cleaner and sandbox (RTV the sandbox base to top seal) good luck.

pull ur idle jets out,there on the back of the carb,tell me what size they are,,,if the carb was on a little motor before it will probaly have big idle jets in it,a big motor takes smaller idle jets and now its flooding and wasting alot more gas than normal

Nice Car

Can you post a list of what’s in your carb so we get a better idea what might be the problem?

Venturies
Idles
Mains
Air corrections
Emulsion Tubes
By-pass valve
Float settings


Don't you need to run a zero by-pass pump valve on a single carb?
The accelerator pump by-pass valve is located in the bottom of the fuel bowl.

All those specs and the pump jet size too.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

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Sounds like a plugged idle jet or an accelarator nozzle, since you have to "feather" the throttle to get high rpm's. Once you get the throttle open to a certain point, these two circuits are no longer in play.

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"Do or Do Not, THERE IS NO TRY!" Yoda.

HI wow thanks for all the suggestions! i am new to the vw buggy stuff! i will pull my carb and check it out and list the jet sizes in there in a few days! it is a old used carb and i thought about buying a new one, i can get a new weber 44 off of ebay for $239.95 free shipping, direct from weber and just start fresh the guy that sold it to me, seems like he mentioned something about a idle circuit or something if i can remember correctly, he said something about sputtering at times, so i was aware of this when bought i will check this out and reply back soon! like the one guy stated in reply you have to pump the accelerator and all the sudden she wakes up and the power comes on strong, there is no smoke just black dry soot in my pipe, a few weeks ago for a short brief time it would take gas instantly! and ran great then it went back doing the same thing again, it has a mind of its own, also after cutting motor off and it hot you have to crank it over a bit to get it to restart and it wont start unless you tap the gas thanks

Heres my engine i will try and post pics of the inside of carburator if that will help thanks

if u buy a new one 90% of the time u want put a single weber on and it wont run right,,they all have to be jetted,sounds like ur idle jets are jus stopped up,a weber idle jets have to be cleaned sometimes

HI DVS1 i done entered it in the buggy of the month just for fun i figured i better get it in there know cause it wont probally look like it does know by next year i would like to run fox coilovers on this buggy with a 6 inch wider beam, but the front has a ball joint beam on it know, and i am not good enough at welding and the cost to convert over to link pin was big $$$$$ thanks