Is your buggy light or HD .If your buggy is light and geared low and a big cam you can run a littel more compression . I would run the 9.6.

its pretty light... you think 9.6? I should be able to pull that off... with my 1.5mm spacer... it will give m 1mm DH with a 56mm cc head. But if you guys feel like I should push for more, now is the best time for me to do it... however 1mm sounds nice and safe to me...

cc'd the old heads, they are 52cc's which means my CR was about 9.2...

I worked today to get the spacers and cylinders clean... and I am pretty happy with how they turned out... I still need to clean the block where the spacers go.

If Brothers gets back to me and says the heads are 56 (like the site says) I will end up with 9.6 CR with the new heads... I orders some of that threebond 2011 to put the cylinders back on with (brothers recommended)... so I will keep cleaning till I get the heads back... May do a bit of paint touchup as well.

Brothers says for any huge gains I will need to port the heads... they can do for 300.00... worth it or not? I may need to pass till next Spring... I am still trying to get my buggy running... what do you guys think... no reason why I can send them back next year for another upgrade... or get it out of the way now and prolong the build? I know some say do it once and do it right...

$300 is a decent deal on getting them ported. I'm sure that will include a fresh valve job as well. With a nice port job on a 40x35.5 head you won't have any need to go bigger on the valves later. I would say that since you already paid thru the nose to ship them out there go ahead and get it done. If the heads you were running are in good shape you could clean them up and sell them to recoupe some of your investment.

Thanks... I told him to do it... will post pics and info when I have them...

worth having my intakes match ported for another 50?

You might as well. Spend the money and cry once. Just my 2 cents.

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when in doubt use the skinny pedal!

ok... also he says .040 is pushing my luck... he is recomending 050... thoughts?

.050 is safe I run have run .040 . I like .045 Is a 3 angle valve job and guides and unshroulding of the valves in that price.

I asked him if the valves were included and he said yes... I am also having the intakes done for 50.00 more...

what should I do 050, 045 or 040?

guess I could add a shim ontop on my spacer to get it?

I have 1mm (.040) with a 1.5mm spacer... if I add a .010 shim to that I will have .050 right?

.010" Barrel Shims 94mm
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=126

It up to you.

Mearsure the deck of EVERY cylinder. Have the piston tops cut to match the highest deck reading and re balance the pistons. Be sure to number the pistons and put the arrow on the back side of the piston. You also should number the barrels and keep the shims matched to the barrels as well if you choose to go this route. If you go the easy way just set it at .050" and be done with it.

Heads are done... should have them next week... Now I just need to sort out the deck height... I have 0.059 spacers that seem to give me .040 (only measured 2 cylinders (will do the rest over the weekend). If that is true do you think my math is correct below? I know you guys say .040 is the way to go... so I am leaning that way... but Brothers says .050... so that has me all mixed up I guess is all.

0.069 - (.050 DH)
0.064 - (.045 DH)
0.059 - (.040 DH)


Once I get the heads I will post after pic’s... I just need to figure out the deck.

The heads CC'd at 56... so I guess by the standards you guys go by I need 9.5-10.1 compression range for pump gas...

what do you think I should do... Stick to 040?

Are you bolting the cylinders down when your measuring? I would personally loosen it up to .045 for safety. If it were all good forged internals and was balanced I would say stick to .040

Yeah 045 is what I have been thinking about as well... All forged internals but safer is better in my book too.

now to locate a spacer that will work.
0.064 - (.045 DH)

All I have at the moment is a 0.059... Brothers is sending me a 010 and a 057... he said I could combine to get 067... that would place me between 045 and 050 Deck Height...


I am bolting the cylinders down when I measure... I plan to re measure tonight or tomorrow morning. to be 100% sure... And I will chk them all.

The guy that just picked up my old heads said its a good idea to run the cylinder shim and a head gasket... if that is the case I will look for an .005 (if it exists)... Or I could run .010 cylinder shim and a .040 head gasket? Would get me .045 I think and more head less cylinder...

thoughts?

Brothers did a good job working them over... Now I just need my deck height tool and my micrometer... (then I can order pushrods and tubes and so on)... I have also sent out my rods to be straightened... they were bent which is why I was unable to get exact deck on left and right side of the piston...

How did you have a bent rod? Never heard of anybody straighten a rod.I believe I'd put new rods in it.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

well good question , They were referb rods... should have been fine... I have had rods fixed before... they use a gauge to tell where its twisted or bent and then they clamp them and adjust by hand (with rods and what not). The guy I sent to is good... if he suspects anything bad he will tell me and then I will replace, or if he tells me I need to replace the bushings... then its no point, I can buy new cheaper than I can rebush, or get used H beams or forged I berams... (No more referb rods for me though)... These are I beam stroker rods... May switch to "H"? I do also have my case clearanced... so there is (I think) room to run whatever.

OK I now have a set of CB performance H beam rods... going to install tomorrow and see what that looks like... I finally found the mark on the crank so now I know for sure it’s a 78mm crank... to be sure... do you guys see any problems with this config:

78mm stroke
94mm bore
w110 (it’s what they put in the block)
56cc heads (see above)
deck to be decided but I was shooting for .045ish...
compression would end up at about 9.5 (is this too high for the cam?)

going to start working on deck height agn tomorrow night... more to follow.

also I see markings for 10 11 ont he crank (mean anything) and on the cam shaft I see this: GG D4 EP12... Ideas?

im no "go to" engine guy, but i think it'll run purty good..are you gunna run dual carbs?? i run the same motor(i got a lil more compression) and they really woke it up ..when i was buyin parts i wished i would have bought 1.25 rockers, but it runs great as is thats why i havent put them on yet..get it together and lets hear it singing

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Yeah, dual 40mm empi carbs... the intakes were also match ported to my heads... What compression do you run? I was told it should do pump gas up to 10.1... but unsure....

Do these numbers look good? Today I will be installing the CB Perf. H beams and would also like to check the case nuts... So looks like rods = 29 and case = big nuts 25 small nuts = 15?????

My ARP bolts just say ARP on the head... Not sure which ones they are...

Engine Specifications and Torque Recomendations

Crankcase nuts
Crankcase 12mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs.
Crankcase 8mm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 ft/lbs.

Cylinder head nuts
Stock 8mm studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ft/lbs.
Chromoly 8mm studs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 ft/lbs.
10m studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs.

Connecting Rod Bolts
Stock T-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs.
UniTech. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs.
Uni Tech HD w/ARP 3/8" bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 ft/lbs.
CB H-Beam/ARP Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ft/lbs.
(consult with other mfgs)

Generator Pulley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 ft/lbs.
Spark Plug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs.
Oil Drain Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ft/lbs.
Rocker Arm Shaft Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ft/lbs.
Stock Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 ft/lbs.
Racing Gland Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . 350 ft/lbs.

mine is set at 10.8:1..nothing but 110 for it have always heard that anything more than 9:1 you should mix it and anything over 10:1 its better for to run strait racing fuel

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

where do you get the fuel at?