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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:40 pm 
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Saw this build on Facebook. I don't know who's it is but it looks bad ass.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:55 pm 
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Very nice ! 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:07 pm 
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I'm liking those arms a lot. Looks very well built. I could see a set of these in my future.....maybe a couple years. Someone track him down and get him on here. We could use a could supercharged, chain drive rail build thread.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:00 pm 
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Location: tupelo ms
Thats Kantgitrite buggy ,.Its going to be bad ass .


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:17 am 
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Looks good. Hope it works well! Keep the wheels turning in your head.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:44 am 
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dirtdobber wrote:
Thats Kantgitrite buggy ,.Its going to be bad ass .


where is he from?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:31 am 
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Location: tupelo ms
Covington, tn, he rides at Pickwick . His side kick is ( big country). He said motor only weighs 100 more lbs than air cooled. Chevy cobalt turbo. I think. He is having trouble posting on here to pics that is.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:56 am 
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Yes! Chains are the way to go if you want w/c. Great design! Trans life, desired ratio, heighth, wheelie control... The only thing I can add to the chain world is my $9 bronze bushing that rides inside the driver sprocket to save 6" per side to make the over all buggy a foot narrower. The cv boot is filled with 5 ounces of gear oil and keeps the bushing oiled and what ever oozes out drips down to the sprocket. The bushing is from the MSC book. It is a solid bronze 1" bore x 1.5" long x 3/16" thick. A buggy too wide wants to push Lt or Rt depending on which wheel is grabbing the grip .Also it HAS to stay in the middle of the road vs a narrow buggy gets to maneuver the road.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:24 pm 
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2800passat wrote:
Yes! Chains are the way to go if you want w/c. Great design! Trans life, desired ratio, heighth, wheelie control... The only thing I can add to the chain world is my $9 bronze bushing that rides inside the driver sprocket to save 6" per side to make the over all buggy a foot narrower. The cv boot is filled with 5 ounces of gear oil and keeps the bushing oiled and what ever oozes out drips down to the sprocket. The bushing is from the MSC book. It is a solid bronze 1" bore x 1.5" long x 3/16" thick. A buggy too wide wants to push Lt or Rt depending on which wheel is grabbing the grip .Also it HAS to stay in the middle of the road vs a narrow buggy gets to maneuver the road.


I would love to see what you are talking about. Pics please. My babychains was a little wide and I did have some trouble handling it.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:09 pm 
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Would any of you with chain experience recommend, or even consider, putting a chaindrive on the street? I'm not saying 70mph highway travel, more like around town on a nice day. Not full "long" chains but more like baby chains with a sprocket idler for tension.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:12 pm 
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When I look at the picture it looks like the drive axle is higher than the pivot point of the arm. Wouldn't that cause the chain to get tighter and looser as the suspension went up and down :?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Huey wrote:
When I look at the picture it looks like the drive axle is higher than the pivot point of the arm. Wouldn't that cause the chain to get tighter and looser as the suspension went up and down :?

no the small sprocket is attached to the swing arm the cv joints and axle move


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:34 pm 
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Now I get it. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:22 pm 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
Would any of you with chain experience recommend, or even consider, putting a chaindrive on the street? I'm not saying 70mph highway travel, more like around town on a nice day. Not full "long" chains but more like baby chains with a sprocket idler for tension.

Bubbachains can do 70mph around town on a nice day :) Aaron ran Bubbachains against the stadium trucks at Rolling W Ranch a while back before it was dialed in and it was fine at speed. I took Marty's advice and made the sprockets centered on 13" which ended up being a 103" wheel base. There isn't any noticeable vibration using this arrangement without a tensioner if that's what you're wondering. Even if you use O-ring chain you still need lube for the metal to metal wear and it's going to sling off which may be unattractive to some. If I was doing it in the street I would just use a 4 seater frame with a 103"-107" wheelbase because the weight on the front end would be OK and approach angle to hills doesn't matter. This is all based on the assumption that the engine has been "upgraded" to a water pumper.JMHO


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:40 pm 
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I already have a 105" wheelbase and if I chaindrive it the wheelbase would actually lengthen a few inches to somewhere 108"-109". I think the slinging of oil could be managed with some chain guards. I was thinking an idler that was spring loaded to continually adjust as the chain stretches. We use chains on our salt spreaders and it's amazing how much they stretch over time. I love the concept, I just need some time and cash to start messing with it. Maybe next winter.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:07 am 
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I run O-ringchains on street motorcycles and stretch (actually pin and bushing wear) is pretty minor. I'll bet if you kept the chains/ sprockets clean you wouldn't be adjusting more than once a season :?: The pros outweigh the cons of a baby chain setup but that is me. To be honest, when I went down this road I had doubts I could make it work and it would just be another of my prototypes on the scrap pile, now I'm a big fan of these oddballs :D


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:57 pm 
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Okay, now someone needs to put all the baby chain info together in one place and make it a sticky. Part numbers for sprockets, chains, sprocket ratios, trailing arm measurements, and so on. It would be great if someone came up with a conversion kit to sell. Most people don't have machine shop access and some designs work better than others. I'm currently working on a water cooled 4 seater that needs trailing arms and would love to give this a try. I bet you could even use a sedan transmission with the chain drive setup.

Huey

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 10:51 pm 
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has anyone heard how this one turned out? I was blowing up bus stub axle bearings in mine about every 6 rides or so. I matched the stock bearings with some roller tapper bearings from the MSC catalog. The combined load capacity went from 22k to over 100k lbs.


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 11:51 pm 
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It's still sitting in his shop. I heard Jason is racing gocarts now


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 7:02 am 
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where is he from? I like that set up!


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:54 am 
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North of Memphis tn


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:55 am 
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He goes by kantgitrit


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