Any special tools needed to replace these? any special tips or tricks to it. I've got the axels off and I'm not so sure how to get the stub axel out to do the inner bearing. A little help for the newb anyone???

They will need to be tapped out with a brass hammer. The outer bearing should come out easyly after removing the 4 bolts that hold the retainer in place. Then remove the rear seal to expose the snap ring that holds the inner bearing in place. This bearing is a light press fit and will need to be knocked out with a punch. There are indents in two places in the bearing housing to access the outer race of the Inner bearing. The outer bearing is a 2 piece rollar and the Inner is a single piece ball style.

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that inner snap ring can be a bitch.

Thanks guys, looks like I need a looong set of snap ring pliers. I hope to have this thing on the road soon, got it as a rolling chasis and have been pumping parts and money into it for about 4 months. Wont be a buggy of the month but its my first one.

My turn to do this, anyone have part #'s for the bearings so I can pick some up?

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here are the part #'s off of the ones i got at the local autozone, they are timken bearings but i havent put them in yet but we looked them up for a 75 model so they should be right

MA1206EF = rear outer wheel bearing

206WB = rear inner wheel bearing

1012N = rear inner wheel seal

2 each are needed to do both sides

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Chris

ok we have part #s and we know about the snap ring how tight do you get the castle nut. I put new bearings in mine and they still wobble any tigher and you can barley turn the wheel around.

did u have the spacers between the bearings?

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Typically the nut gets tightened 300 to 400 pounds.

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yes the spacers are in place I probly didnt get the correct tourque i just use my imact set on number 2 How can I get acuret my tourque wrench only goes to 225 ft lbs

Use a breaker bar and a 3 to 4 foot pipe and put your weight on it. It does not have to be exact. Any less and the nut will come loose. I used to use a 2 foot bar and my nuts would get loose in a short time. Ok guys get your mind out of the Gutter!

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Make sure your spacers are in the right way the bevele has to be right or they will not stay tight.Rule of thumb for the nut is as tight as you can get it then another 1/4 turn. I use a 6202 sealed bearing fot the enter bearing.

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Dopey, doesnt the tapered side face in?

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The stub axel has three spacers the one closes to the cv the bevel goes toward the cv and spacer toward the out side of the buggy the bevel goes toward the the big nut.

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If you face the bevel towards the nut then it will have less surface to contact a softer material in the Wheel Hub and will indent and the nut becomes loser quicker. If you face it towards the harder outer bearing race the spacer wil give less than the softer Wheel hub. Most wheel hubs are cast or mild steel.

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Ive never had any problem with the bevel out wards thats the way the book shows it. Years ago i couldnt keep my wheel tight and a local buggy shop ask me witch way i had the spacers and i had it backwards i changed it and had no more problems.Another lesson ive learned is when you think you have a bent rotor or axle you might have a groove cut in the out side spacer. The race on the out side bearing will cut a groove in that spacer if that big nut comes loose at all and then when you tighting the nut it will tighten crooked and that will make your rotor wobble and make your brakes suck.

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this is the correct way,i beleive the bevel allows the seal to work,the outside of the spacer ride in it.chad

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I actually use two stock or one aftemarket spacer on mine. It has varied over the years depending on the arms. The aftermarket spacers dont have a bevel. I think the last time I was able to use one spacer was on a set of stock arms.

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thanks I'm gonna check it out this weekend and let yall know what i find out

ok so I got it I had the outer spacer backwards and the inner was split in half thank you guys for the help