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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 5:02 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
I'm considering making a set of front arms (most likely 4x1) this winter for my king pin and I thought that square tubing would be easier and stronger. Just wondering why I've never seen this before.

Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 5:14 pm 
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I have a 2 sets that's square one on my one seater and a extra set I have seen them around they seem to be good

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:45 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
would you happen to have any pictures of these? That would be awesome

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:02 pm 
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ImageImage

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:25 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
Those look very beefy thanks for the pics. Im headed to the steel shop tomorrow to price things out and I think I like the square idea better than round

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:50 am 
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Not as torsionally stiff as round ones for the same weight of material, that's all.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 1:58 pm 
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If your planning on extending stock car arms I'd stay away from that, they like to bend were they go inside the beam, I have bent a couple sets that were not extended and extending them will probably make that more likely. I'm sure after I post this a bunch of guys will say there stock extended arms work no problems but I also ride in Wellsville witch is very rough terrain, so it depends on what kind of riding you do


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 3:15 pm 
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I have extended a few, and yep! They bend (or crack off) right where they go into the beam. if your easy on them they should hold up just fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 6:46 pm 
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Location: brookpark ohio ---- wellsville
If your looking to extend your arm two inches and stock width I have a jig and I can show you how to make this style. There is a few of us that make this style and run them out in wellsville. I haven't seen any problems with any of them. So if you want, I live in brookpark, about 5 mins from hopkins airport, you can come over and I can let you borrow the jig and show you what materials you need.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:40 pm 
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afterburnt wrote:
If your looking to extend your arm two inches and stock width I have a jig and I can show you how to make this style. There is a few of us that make this style and run them out in wellsville. I haven't seen any problems with any of them. So if you want, I live in brookpark, about 5 mins from hopkins airport, you can come over and I can let you borrow the jig and show you what materials you need.

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Are you running those on a beam with bushings or bearings


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 10:24 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
Thanks afterburnt, if I decide to go with 2 over arms I will definatly hit you up. I just dont like the setup of the drop spindles and would like the extra clearance and travel of the 4x1s. If im going to make them I might as well go big lol. As far as weight I'd rather have stronger heavier arms. Athough 2 inch isn't really all that much

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:05 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
I Mean the 2 inch thats between a 4x1and a 2x1. Does anyone have a link to what tubing people use to make custom arms?. I can't seem to find the diameter of the part that goes inside of the torsion tube without taking mine apart. I think the inside of the back of the arm needs to be 5/8 for the pin to slide through

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 6:20 am 
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I used bushings when I ran those arms .but you can use the stock bearings. The arms that I make now I use 1 1/2" 4130 chromemoley shaft that goes in side the beam . SACO sells the bushings for that size. I might be wrong but if you go 4" longer your stock torsion spring will be too weak.you might have to cut your beam and put after market adjusters in it. the 2'" arms you don't have to add the adjusters .


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:08 pm 
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A 4" longer arm WILL break torsion springs, like it or not, sooner or later, with or without adjusters.
Look at what is commercially available today, no where will you see a +4" arm capable of using torsion springs.

If it's not commercially available today that means one of two things, someone a hundred years ago thought it up already and proved it wouldn't work, or it hasn't been thought of yet and what's the chances of that.

Oh and the diameter of the stock main arm pivot is 37mm (1.4567")

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 3:24 pm 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
I should have probably mentioned that im going either coil or air shocks up front. And thank you for the info on diameters.

Posted using the WoodsBuggy Mobile App

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:49 pm 
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RaceBugg1098 wrote:
I have extended a few, and yep! They bend (or crack off) right where they go into the beam. if your easy on them they should hold up just fine.


My Woods ones did that few times, even with chromoly pins :(

New arms are 1.75" pins instead :D


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 12:12 am 
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Location: akron ohio(10 minutes from summit racing
Im going to stick with the 2 inch housing so I can't go with 1.75. I dont want to spend big money on spindles. So I have to stick wigh the stock 5/8 pins. So I need 1.5 3/8 wall for the pivot tube. I like the idea of square tubing for the arm so 1.5 square 3/16. The only thing im unsure of is what to use for the spindle side ive seen others us 1 inch od 5/8 id. So I may use 1inch thicker square so that the end doesn't need to be hacked together. What do you guys think?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:58 pm 
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I think you need to buy some good aftermarket arms like woods or tweeds. You will thank me later.


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