Is there any pros/cons to starting with trailing arms with type 3 stub axles. I'm trying to compare all the different types and my head is spinning. Does a type 3 stub have the flange I will want. I have a line on a pair for $75 with the stubs which I think might not be a bad deal to get the IRS conversion started...

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This is the most detailed info I've found so far about differences but type 3 is not included unless they're the same as one of these?
from Samba..
"
Type 1 CVs are 94mm in diameter
Type 2 are 100mm
Type 4 (Thing) CVs are 100mm
930s are 108mm

Each one can handle a varying degree of angularity. The more it's jacked up, the more angle the CVs need to handle.

Type 1 is good to 12 degrees
Type 2 is 17 degrees
Type 4 is 22 degrees
930 is 25 degrees"

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from what i see they are the same as a type 1. it would be nice if you could find a complete type 1 torsion assembly. if you wasnt so far away i could hook you up.

I think he should bring his Buggy down to Wellsville and go riding and take the Type one torsion home with him.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

type 3 torsion is 23 mm and type1 is 21.5. Type 3 rides so perfect because you don't have to jack them up so tight to get your lift.They will interchange. A type 3 torsion housing does not have the wish bone to carry the motor.(the bad part).

Alright, so if I get the arms w/ type 3 stubaxles I'm prolly gonna end up changing out the stubs anyways then. So no benefit to getting that package since the arms will be all I'll use.

I've taken some things you guys have advised me on to heart and decided I could start the change over at least to IRS in hopes of eventually getting some scratch together for a 6 rib. I have a spare IRS transaxle, nothing special prolly from a bug, That I can run until it blows or the 6 rib happens. Then that's all I need to do is maybe change axle lengths for the 6 rib...

I'm still looking and maybe I'll find a complete IRS rear end. Either way it's work. But I suppose cutting out my SA torsion and carefully lining up a new complete unit would at least eliminate the need to renting jigs and all that. Especially since I've never seen one together.lol I'm finding there's a lot of things to take into consideration when it comes to figuring out a setup.
Hopefully, I'll be setup well enough eventually that I can come down and take you guys up on that offer.

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Here is a link to a pair of stock Type 1 arms for 50 bucks, that have been boxed in and shock mounts added . An excellant starter set.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1454513

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Already found a "complete" rear end in the town I work in. gotta meet the guy after work today to check it out. Hope it's what I'm hoping for cuz it's $100 for weld-in upgrade plus no shipping just gas money. Keepin my finners crossed...

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Take a chipping hammer with you to tap on the trailing arms and horns for rusted thru places. Good luck. I would recommend you buy a box kit the stock arms as they are on the weak side for offroading.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Yup for sure.

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