Last year I bent a wheel adapter and didn't realize it and rode for awhile and it ended up cauising my stub to come loose and "woller" out the bearing carrier... I threw some shims in around the OD of the bearing so I could go ride again, but it has gotten bad again. Has anyone ever welded this surface up and bored it out on a mill? I really don't want to buy a new arm, and I don't have a jig to use to change the carrier. Any thoughts or ideas?

make a jig

The problem with welding is it will leave a very hard surface to cut in a mill. Then you need to use the other bearing surface to get center. Can it be done yes is it worth it, only if your doing it yourself then maybe. If you have to pay to have it done your better off buying a new arm.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Ive welded the inside of mine before. After i welded them i just used a dremill tool and buffed the weld down intil the bearing fit good and snug. It took me about an hour to do it.

Yes, I plan on doing it myself... I have a bridgeport and all the necessary tooling, but I see what you mean about centering it up.. What Kevin said doesn't sound bad either as long as I was careful with it... Thanks for the input guys!

Afterburnt gave me his old arms, one of the outer bearing bores were wasted. My plan in the next few weeks is to take a piece of CRS 5/8" x 5" x about 24", drill 4 flange mount holes, bore a slip fit hole to fit the OD of the bearing housing, drill two 5/8 mounting holes, Bolt the plate so the arm can overhang the backside of the table, zero the bored hole to the mills spindle, grind and mig weld the bearing bore, mount the arm to the underside of the plate and using a carbide boring bar finish the bearing bore.

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Speedy sleeve here, if you can figure out the correct size needed. http://www2.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty ... leeve.aspx

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

Now that looks like a viable option I would use. Thank for the link.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

i use speedy-sleeves a lot on shafts where seals wears a grove .I dont think it will work for a bearing very long.

They work great on shaft seals, but even if you're lucky enough to find the correct ID or OD the .011 wall thickness will make one or the other .022 smaller or larger. Plus you still will have a fubared surface that will not support the bearing very long. For a quick fix (maybe to get you through a weekend) http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/ ... mpound.pdf

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Roads.... Where we are going, we don't need roads!

I spot welded the bottom and half way up the sides of the carrier then ground them down with a carbide burr tool. Crude, but quick and I didn't have to remove the arms from the buggy. Bearings fit nice now, and I added that loctite compound to help lock them in. Hopefully I can atleast get this year out of them...

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Sorry Billy, I just saw this. I will have to check it tomorrow and let you know, but as far as i can tell, I have not had any issues as of yet.

Still holding up.... Crossing fingers it makes it through the year until I get new frame and arms...