Has any one ran only one set of torsion in a king pin? If so, top or bottom or does it matter. I have some cheap coil overs with thru rod and they are not strong enough. My air shocks wont clear my arms and towers so I'm wandering if one torsion would be too much stiffness

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Can you say "brake parts fast"
I would strongly suggest NOT doing that. Dr.Porsche designed that suspension to work with two sets of springs for a reason. Because one set ain't enough.

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Let me Clarify. I will be running my coil overs with that one torsion. Not just one torsion only.

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What are you hoping to accomplish? Smoother ride, Cheaper parts??????????

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I dont think the one set will do much at all to help you. IMO, I think you'd be better off to ditch the cheap coilovers and run both sets of stock torsion leaves and cut and roll down the centers of your beam 1/4" and reweld it, then get a nice set of KYBs or similiar. With extended arms it will ride great.

I'm trying to raise it off the ground but not too stiff with the parts I have laying around the house. The thru rods with coil overs won't give any uplift from full compression. With both torsions in it won't flex. Untill I can afford some good shocks I have to use my left overs.

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When in doubt pray harder!

I agree with Larry, your not going to get lift with out loosing some ride comfort. Extending the arms is the first lift, a taller set of tires would be next. You need to pick which is more important, ride height or ride quality.

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When I mean lift..I really mean any lift. Anything above an inch. I have to pick it back up after I stand on the front end. I put the one torsion in and it will work for now. It did rebound back up. I have 14" of ground clearance with my Swampers. It is soft but will work for now. Thanks everybody for your your input. It all is helpful.

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When in doubt pray harder!

I used to run one set of torsions, plus a soft coilover spring, with the second set of torsions wound off and basically just holding the top arms in, it was easier to get a progressive front spring rate that way. Although had progressive springs custom wound with the new arms instead.

just leave it stock and make some drop spindles i have ran some 4 inch homade drop spindles before they worked pretty good

Mike I agree with this but there are two problems I see based on my knowledge. With extended arms you will have extra leverage requiring more sping force to hold the arms at the same angle. And with larger tires on a stock front end you lose turning radius as you go taller due to the tire hitting the frame. This is why I went with the droped tweed spindles, which do also cause more leverage on all the front joints causing its own strength issues which I have not seen yet, but probibly will over time. If anyone can show me where I am wrong or easy ways to overcome these issues it would be appriciated. I need to do something to my daughters buggy to lift the front. before i build the new steering and make tie rods twice.

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The stock link/pin torsion spring pack has 4 split leaves per pack. Replace them with 2 full width leaves, that increases the spring rate that will handle the 2 1/2 X 1" arms and a set of adjusters. OR add a set of adjusters and a set of SAW heavy duty springs that are 20% stiffer than stock, that will allow longer arms. OR 4" longer arms and a set of Nitrogen shocks or coil overs, like my SS. And if that still isn't enough then a set of drop spindles.
The last two cars I built are running 6.70X15 tires which adds about 2" in height over the 5.00X15. Neither car rubbed the tires anywhere and both had better a turning radius than anyone we rode with. And as long as the tire didn't rub on the ends of the arms or through rods, who cares. A little bit of rub on a frame tube isn't going to hurt anything.

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Thanks Mike, really didnt know about the other springs available. I love the Nitrogen shoks but just too much money at this point, wish I could. And I run 6.70 on mine too. Which works great with the combo drop spindles, because they widened the front 2 to 4" compared to stock spindles.

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