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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:56 pm
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Location: Waterford, Michigan north of detroit
Hello again and thank all of you for any and all advice. i have a full year on my buggy now and it runs great but as most of us thrill seekers i want more. So i want to go from my 1915 to a 2332 i know that is a new crank and rods but what about the block and do i have to clearance that and what does every one run for heads and cams? Thanks again guys this place is great.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:25 pm 
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Yes you will have to clearence the block and possiably the Cam. If the block is a single oil relief then you should replace with a dual relief block. If it is an OEM block you may have issues with the clearencing and come thru the block in places. I have heard that these holes have been repaired with JB Weld. Personally I would go with a new Aluminum case. Using chevy journal rods and crank will lesson the amount you need to clearence. VW journal "H" beam rods will also help lesson the clearencing. BTW I do have a brand new set of them if your interested. as far as cams go Most run a 110 grind for low end torque in the woods. You will get many different opions on Cams and heads. My rule of thumb on these two Items is simple.
Base your decisions on low end torque. Woods riding is not a place were bigger is better.
Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:27 pm 
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That is a good move, I would go ahead a go on to 2387, the price is the same and I would run a Fk series cam. The good set of heads are the Street Elimators and they are killer heads, there are other good heads out there too and what kind do you already have? As far as the clearance the block goes, there is not a whole lot to do and that depends on what kind of block you have also. Give us the specs on your 1915, what carb or carbs you have and all and we can help you out even more on what you need to make it run killer. Is it for the sand or the woods?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:56 pm
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Location: Waterford, Michigan north of detroit
Well as far as the carbs go i run dual dell 40's i have never had the engine apart so i guess i will have to ask how to identify the block and heads i thought i would just buy new but i guess maybe some parts could be re-used? i am new to the vw stuff i was a pontiac guy. thanks again


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 4:12 pm 
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Location: Waterford, Michigan north of detroit
oh and we ride mostly woods and trails here in michigan where all the snowmobiles go


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:13 am 
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i would go ahead like badvw said and go 2387 using chevy journal crank and rods and use a 110 cam like oddy said plus i would use straight cut gears and 1.25 rockers on solid shafts and whatever heads you use i wouldnt go over 42 x 37.5 on the valve sizes

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:56 pm
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Location: Waterford, Michigan north of detroit
Ok after doing a fair amount of reading i am going to say there is no way for sure to identify heads on a vw it looks like you can take a set of stock dp heads and cut them to just about anything you want,so tear down is the only way to know. I am still not finding much on how to identify the block can anyone give me some idea of how this is done. the big pontiacs were pretty easy to know what you had.


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