Just trying to help people that don't know.The book says 2and a half thousandths to 6. I know 10-15 ain't worth pulling your motor back out, but I once tried 2 thousandths and the motor got tighter and tighter as the motor warmed up , then locked up.You can not even fathom the difference between 2 and 2.5 thousands!But it is a fatal difference.Even bent the dowel peg hole for the main bearring and I had to make a new one on the other side of the block.The 4 hole paper gasket in your motor rebuild kit can be sandwiched in to make a minute difference.Those heavy pressure plates wear out the thrust side of the main bearring. Too much end play hammers out the metal on both sides of the main bearring and the thrust cut of the block. You find your self having clutch adjustment problems, your distributor drive gear moving back and forth , playing small games with your ignition timing and cam gear and extreme cases the counter weight on your crank scrubbing the #3 bearring wall. Did you know a bent transmission input shaft or bad needle bearrings in your flywheel gland nut can make it jump out of gear? Also, too much or incorrect grease can ooze out, get hot and make your clutch stick to the flywheel or slip.I use very little disc brake grease.If your trans grinds in all gears except for 4th(ratio is close to 1:1) ,then your clutch is glued to the fly wheel.To break it loose, jack 1 wheel off the ground and crank the car in 1st gear without pushing the clutch pedal. That tire in the air will rotate fast.Hit the brake or better, have an assistant release the floor jack and it will break loose.Sitting in the creek can rust it and do the same thing.On very bad align bored blocks other than binding in the motor, the flywheel will eat out metal on the bellhousing making you think your motor has huge compression and a weak starter.

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lets just ride

DD, how many Fuji Heavy Industry stocks DO you own?? (Subaru's parent company)
You must be a part owner of it or something.

Did you forget to take your Ritalin again?