what should i shim my valves at in the vw manual it says 00.6. I have heard people on here talk about no tolerance or 0 tolerance what is that. other people have talked about running 00.2 and 00.4 tolerance just wondering witch is best. I have a 1915, VZ-15 cam, bug pack push rods, stock 1.1 rockers, bug pack high rev springs.

What do you think would be best for my motor thanks.

You would want to set your clearance when the engine is COLD like from sitting in your garage all night then work on it in the morning one day, not after 2 hours of running the engine or so. The clearance that I heard from a lot of people said to set it on .001" and sometimes .0015", I am a believer on around the .001" area, because as the engine warms up then cools down, your pushrods stays the same length, but your heads gets farther and closer to your engine depending on how hot and cold it is and that should do it, if you get it too tight and I mean .0005" give or take a bit, when you engine gets too cold like over the winter storage, it could start pushing on the valves just sitting there and that's recipe for disaster when starting one up like that from what I hear.

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The main reason to go tighter than factory clearance is to get every last bit of lift on the valve. But you need to monitor them often when you do this cuz your exhaust valves can tighten in pretty short time. I set mine on zero, but I cant imagine it makes that big a difference. .006 is the safest way to go, but they may click a little.

VZ cam card says .006" with the aluminum pushrods IIRC.
If your Bugpack pushrods are steel, the lash can be tightened up considerably.
I set all steel pushrods at a loose "O" after the engine is broken in.

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Gary

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It depends on wether they are aluminum or steel. Aluminum 0.006" , steel rule of thumb is 0, however I recently read some where that they should be 0.001"-0.002" Again the explanation is how the metals differ in the way (how much) they expand and contract with heat.

Aluminium: .006"
Steel: loose zero