i was wanting to know a little bout stroker motors and if there was a kit u could buy or what...right know i got a 1915 and was looking for a little more power thanks all replies welcome thanks...

A 1915 use's the stock crank w/94mm Pistons. Using 94 mm pistons with a 78.4 crank will yield you a 2165 with minimal case clearencing. Any thing larger than that will require a bit of work to clearence the cases for the rods."H" beam rods are smaller in size requiring less clearencing than stock rods. I would recommend them any ways on larger motors. You can buy cases allready clearenced for up to 86mm stroke crank for around 6 to 700.00 bucks. 94mm pistons with an 86 mm crank will yield you a 2387. On the larger stroker motors the cam will also need to be clearenced to clear the rods. You can also go larger with 103mm pistons however you should run 5 studs on the cylinders when you get that large. HP cost money. There are stroker kits avalable from CIP, Scat etc. Personally I would do it seperatly and look around for the deals. When I built my first 2165 I bought a balanced 4340 Chromoly crank "H" beam rods and 12# flywheel for 700 bucks. The deals are there if your willing to do the research. If your interested I have an allready built 2332.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Its also a good idea to get a stroker cranker and rods with chevy size journals (2"). They give you a little more room in the case too, and usually are not any more expensive.

I always find the charts helpful.. Then I do not need to do any math..

http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Eng_Disp.asp

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what would u have to have for the motor??

A 2165 with a Engle W 110 or VZ 15, 25 style cam pulls hard. With Revmaster or Scat I beam rods the case should not need any case or cam clearancing. Stock VW rods will require the case to be clearanced. If you are starting from scratch you might as well go big. An 88x94 goes together fairly easy. You can get an CB case preclearanced and bored and raised case for $750. With H Beam rods after 84 mm stroke the cam will need clearancing but a few minutes with a bench grinder or lathe cures that. A DPR 88 mm crank is $400, CB H beam rods with 3/8 ARP 2000 rod bolts are $250 while your at CB get one of thier dry sumps and oil tank $400. For heads a set of Steve Tims Stage two heads with Stage 1 intake and exhaust port volumes should get the air speed up for better throttle response and still make power on the top end around $800 with match ported intakes. Use dual 45 mm carbs. Cam choice is dictated by what terrain you drive on. VZ 15, 25, 30 are all good choices.

Wow... I just wet through all of this.. Other things I would have had to consider (You might already have them) Dual carbs to feed the engine, a new oil cooler, push rods, push rod tubes, rocker arms, etc.. etc.. It starts to add up..

I took the easy way and just bought a Subaru

Here is a great article that answers a lot of questions about rebuilding a VW engine ad some things to consider. Well worth the time to read.
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm

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so 1915 is the biggest i can go in a stock as41 block without clearancing? i will be using cb H beam rods and mahle 94mm pistons. i dont care to buy a new crank if i can get a 20.. in it

hes gonna need new pistons also hes got a's gonna need b's

bigger is always better but huge can cost you a lot of heart ace in the future. the bigger you go the more your engine wants to pull itself apart. if you put a massive motor together on a tight budget and cut some corner to save a few hundred dollars your playing with disaster. i love my big engine but you can make an incredibly nasty smaller engine and potentially keep it together longer for the same price. the money you may spend on a new aluminum case could have bought you a set a killer heads for your 1915. ans so on and so forth.

I've got everything you need in a package or sepertly. look under for sale for "new 2387". Alot cheaper, at my loss.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Can you use the vw rods?

sure you could use stock vw rods on your big expensive stroker motor as long as they are for a vw journal crank, but why would you spend all that money on a big engine and put it together with stock rods????

what is A's and B's? i plan to get the mahle 94mm forged and cut my block to them and get 044 heads to hopefully build a good little motor.. reliable and healthy...

"b" pistons have the wrist pin relocated further up the piston skirt. They are for larger stroke cranks. (above 78 I think)

Even if you want to stay with a 69mm crank, a stock one is probably only good for 5,000 RPM at best. A ballanced counter wieghted one would be better. (With the entire rotating mass balanced, good to 8,000 RPM, or what ever your machine shop claims) Counter wieghted cranks are priced about the same, no matter the stroke.

so i should get a cb 69mm counterweighted crank, 94mm mahle A's, cb H beams, and 044 heads, and have it all balanced and it should be good to rip and be a decent 1915??

A decent 1915 is harder on transmissions than a bigger "decent" motor.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Ok, explain.

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i dont understand how a smaller engine could be harder on a tranny unless its built for the drag strip and you are constantly dropping the clutch at 5 grand to go anywere??? just doesnt make much sence 2 me???

ok i can see a "decent" 1915 being harder on trannys than a "junk" bigger motor but this i just dont get so im with nitro on the please explain

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Chris