ok my block is not full flowed so im just gonna run the dog house cooler. so im wondering if it is a good idea to rum the extra 1.5quart sump pan??? do i have to do anything extra or is it just a bolt on and go kit???

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Don't let out when in doubt!!

Bolt on, but you may not have room to run it with-out modification to skid plat under the motor. Also, I havn't ever seen one on a woodsbuggy. I wouldn't worry about it. Just run the stock cooler.

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

You will have ground clearance issues with a sump. I fitted one many years ago & took it off before I left the garage.

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you can get a stock oil cooler for a bus motor and use it.have to trim out around the fan shroud a little but it works just fine and cools more oil.few guys around here are running them on 1915's and no extra add on coolers and they have no problems running hot.chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

Im just getting an understanding of full flow myself. My last 1915 had a doghouse cooler & I ran a "full flow" oil pump. It had an in & out line. I ran the out through a double filter then a second 96 plate cooler w/fan then to the in fitting. I had a 7 quart capacity & stayed cool. From what Im learning the pump did direct oil to the full flow passage without tapping the block.

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make sure you have a good shroud with baffles intact, and you should have no problem cooling that 1915 on the stock cooler or like chad said grab a bus cooler.

its all new. from the cooler,shroud, tins, cool tins the main tech man from appletree told me not to run the full flow oil pump because the pump only hase a 1/4 inch hole and doesnt pump enough volume... so without out enough volume he said it could starve the main bearings... idk guys im just trying to get everyones opinion!!

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Don't let out when in doubt!!

if it is new tin, make sure it has the oem style baffles in it, a lot of the new chinese tin they sell has no internal baffles meaning the air just blows wherever it wants.

If I am wrong someone correct me....Im pretty sure the full flow pump I used still pumped oil as if stock but also redirected some oil out the pump & back into the full flow passage. I beat that engine to death for years it never missed a beat. It was a stock case buildup. Heres the specs....

1915 w/ Mofoco 042 large port heads cut .050 raising compression to about 9.5 to 1. VZ30 cam with straight cut gears & Scat lightweight lifters. Rockers 1.1 on chromoly shafts with swivel foot adjusters. Mahle 94 MM forged pistons & cylinders, weight matched & rebushed stock rods. The rods were deburred & shot peened. 69 MM counterweight crank 8 doweled & 12 lb. lightened flywheel & a chromoly gland nut. he rotating assembly was balanced. Carbs dual Weber 44's. Header 1 5/8" Tri-Mill.

There isnt too much more you can do to a 1915. I never dropped below 40 psi oil pressure hot & all I had was that oil pump. I may have gotten lucky but that sob ran....

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thats the same set up i have except i have a scat counter weighted crank and rods with a c45 cam... what size valves were u running??? just gettin everyones opion cause this motor is new from ground up...

so your block wasnt full flow???

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Don't let out when in doubt!!

I was running stainless 40/35.5 valves. That VZ30 cam was huge. .480 sumthing lift. Everybody told me it was too big. Wrong....that sucker woke that motor up. I ran a 3 rib & climbed in 1st gear at 6000 rpm all day. You knew when I was climbing, there was no other sound like it...lol. I used to hear Jesus Christ said a lot when I got to the top of the hill. I ran a windage tray as well as a sand seal pulley. I have a feeling that engine would have bogged with a 6 rib.

Jims VW did my prep work. I never tapped the block for full flow....I never knew I had to.

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i got a 3 rib in it now so ill guess ill see how long it lasts... thats good to here hell this motor aint no 2500 but with a lil clutch fn ill put on a show gaurenteed!!!!!! whta tires were you running?

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Don't let out when in doubt!!

sorry for the cursin(moderator) got a lil over excited

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Don't let out when in doubt!!

It was an A case 3 rib. Made just prior to the 5 ribs intro. Apparently the strongest 3 rib they made. Im no expert, I was told all this. I ran a KEP stage 2 & 4 puck unsprung disc & hammered that trans. My buggy was under 1200 lbs so Im sure that helped.

I was running Goodyear 4 ply uncut V treads on 12" heavy steel wheels. 8 psi in em.

One correction....I ran a VZ25 cam. .470 lift .286 dur. I wanted to run the VZ30 but there were coil bind concerns at .507 lift. If I remember right the heads out of the box maxed at .525 without machine work. I was worried that heat expansion would take up the slack & cause binding.

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