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| HELP http://www.woodsbuggy.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=660 |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | HELP |
hey i have two motors ones about a 50's and the other one is a 72 i was wondering is there any difference in the blocks is it just the jugs and pistons and heads because i have a set of dual port heads and i was going to order a kit for 1500 that is uncreased up to 1600 and order a cam i was also wondering is there any differences in the heads is there a left or right this may sound stupid but is there. |
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| Author: | FlaBaja [ Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Im pretty sure that the heads can bolt on either side. And why buy a kit to make the 1500 a 1600? The 72 should be a 1600dp I think |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
no i turning my 1500 to a 1600 with a kit using my 50's block i was just wondering if theres a difference in my 50 and my 72 block wise |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
my 50s motor has a broke cam and i was going to do a complete rebuild on it with a low end cam and bigger jugs with dual port heads. while i was building it keep my 72 in my buggy and still ride it but i just got the motor so im not sure if there any mojor problems but it does run so while mine is being build ill still have somthing to play on since i just got into buggies im not very patient i kinda want one to play on as soon as possible instead of having no motor trying to rebuild my 72 i thought it would be easier to build the non running one |
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| Author: | D. Marks [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm sure you would be better off working wiith the newer motor. I understand wanting to play though. |
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| Author: | FlaBaja [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I assume that since your in Kentucky that there is probably going to be about 3 or 4 months that you cant ride because of the cold. Why not just buy parts to build the 72 so that when winter comes you have everything you need to build it. That way you can get parts as you have the money. Hell, you might even be able to pick up some free stuff if you arent in a hurry. And that 50s motor might be 1200cc. Im not sure but I think you are very limited in what you can do to the older cases. I wouldnt waste my money on the older one. |
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| Author: | m.ralston [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the 72 motor is a dual releif block you should definitely use it.It should have two letters before the numbers start on the vin#.It also should be a better cast. If you take your time and do it right the first time,it will save you money in the long run.MIKE |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i have the heads and all the intake stuff along with the carb to convert over and the jugs and pistons come in a kit along with bearings and seals the cam is broke so im going to put a bottom end cam in it since it is going to need replacing and then i would have two running dual ports i dont know it just sounded like a good ideal to me |
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| Author: | Roy [ Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If your 50's motor is actually from the 50's, you do not want to fool with it. It is not a very reliable design. Those cases did not even have cam bearings. I would try to find another case to mess around with, just make sure whatever you find must have two letters at the beginning of the serial number. Such as AE or AK etc.... Roy |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Fri Jun 22, 2007 4:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
my running moter starts with AE i was told that means its a 72 and i think the other motor is a 50 becouse its a single port and thats what i was told it was was around the 50's |
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| Author: | turboblue [ Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
50 series is a 1962-63 bus engine, 1200cc. Hardly any of those parts from that engine will interchange with a dual port engine. |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
the motors look alike except the dual ports i was told the motor came out of a car i believe its a around late 50's but i could be wrong |
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| Author: | A. Cole [ Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Post the engine block numbers. I'll look them up in one of my manuals. Also, a great investment would be a haynes manual, you'll use it more than you think. |
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| Author: | turboblue [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 4:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote='A. Cole']Post the engine block numbers. I'll look them up in one of my manuals. Also, a great investment would be a haynes manual, you'll use it more than you think.[/quote] He did. One was an AE and the other was a 50xxxxx something. 360sst They may look alike but they aren't. That 50xxxx is a bus engine from the early 60's........ |
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| Author: | A. Cole [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: He did.
One was an AE and the other was a 50xxxxx something. Sorry |
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| Author: | turboblue [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote='A. Cole'] Quote: He did. One was an AE and the other was a 50xxxxx something. Sorry[/quote] No big thing..............it's all good. 
I just hope he don't expect much out of that 40hp......... 
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| Author: | 360sst [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
well i have decided to build my ae block about how much would rings and bearings cost moter dont have much endplay how much would it cost to have rebuild |
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| Author: | turboblue [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote='360sst']well i have decided to build my ae block about how much would rings and bearings cost moter dont have much endplay how much would it cost to have rebuild[/quote] I would never re-ring old pistons when new Mahle stock pistons, cylinders, rings, wristpins and keepers are around $100. All the bearings should be $55 or so. Not much endplay? How much is not much? Factory spec is .0027"-.005". That is barely a human hair. If you can see it move, it's |
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| Author: | Roy [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wear limit is .010 to .012. Make sure you measure it while you have it apart doing the top end. I agree with Gary. I never re-ring a VW anymore. The success rate is poor at this procedure. Spend the extra 70 bucks and get a whole new set of pistons and cylinders. Roy |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 7:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
wellthe guy that is helping me build it has a buggy and he knows about them he told me it was a good block and we though we might have heard it knocking he said it had less play then his and hes spent a lot of money i where could i get all this stuff at like pistons and cylinders plus ring alonf withbearings for 155.00 on jc whitney it 250 i think for jugs pistons ring and bearings plus gasket kit and i still need someone to build it theres a guy close to here that builds buggies but i havent got a chance to talk to him lately last time i talked with him i didnt even have a motet his name is donnie miller i was told he would do it for around 100.00 but im not sure if that right thats just what i was told |
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| Author: | turboblue [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
JC Whitney...........good luck with that............ 
If your case or crank has ever been machined JCW will not know which bearings to get you. Been there, seen it happen. You won't know what you need till you take it apart anyway. My guess is the case needs align bored. Had a guy come in wanted me to build his engine from JCW parts, I looked at what he had. I won't normally build other vendors parts but this guy was a newbie and needed some direction. Those bozos sold him a stock new not machined case, 92mm (1835) piston kit, stock bore big valve heads, all standard bearings, .020 under on mains and rods CW crank, and a reground no name camshaft just to name a few parts. None of it would work without machining the case and getting different bearings. Get someone who knows VW engines to get your parts, not an order taker sitting behind a desk that wouldn't know a main bearing from a rumble seat. |
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| Author: | buggynutz2 [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
360sst There is a guy between Jackson and Campton that deals with buggies or at least he did. He may parts for your rebuild on hand. His name is Kenny Tyra and he owns a little country store called Kenny's Gas and Grocerys I dont have his #. but his store is just past Bethany on the left coming from Jackson. He can probably help you get started in the right direction |
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| Author: | 360sst [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 3:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeah i know kenny real good i checked with him on rings and bearings but thats all i didnt see about pistons and cylinders but i called that guy i was telling you about his name is donnie he worked with kenny for a while now he deals in his own stuff he told me he could build it for 150 if cleaned and teaken apart without parts and then i think he wanted 300 to completly rebuild it if it was uncleaned and the block not split with parts and start if before it leaves his shop but i think he was tryin to give me the run around were im young |
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| Author: | tonyj [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | buggy parts |
there is a guy in natural bridge that has buggy parts. He is the only one I buy from anymore His name is Kevin Wireman. He can linebore and punch the block for bigger cylinders and build it. I had him do the block work and build the short block for my 1915. Give him a call 1-606-464-9336. If you can't get in touch with him let me know I'll help if I can. |
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