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 Post subject: 1-5/8
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:15 am 
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Location: Elyria, Ohio
I started to install the new 1-5/8


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:21 pm 
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TriMill is not any better and EMPI headers are absolutely the worst.
The flanges on the Bugpack is twice as thick as the others, I use them on a lot of builds.

Image


Bugpack is the lesser of many evils as headers go right now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:21 pm 
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WB Contributor
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Mine were that way when I installed them. Had to use some muscle to get everything to fit once it was tightened up. Talked to them about it and it was useless.

The Wild Kids


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 3:06 am 
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[quote='The Wild Kids']Mine were that way when I installed them. Had to use some muscle to get everything to fit once it was tightened up. Talked to them about it and it was useless.

The Wild Kids[/quote]

I got them to work. I had to take off the one that was hitting, stick it in the vice, beat it with a rubber hammer and put all my weight on it trying to get it lined up. It


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:55 am 
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Thats about right, only way that you can get them on. I was afraid that I was going to pop off a exhaust bolt on the head. Its time for another exhaust on mine and I dread taking this on off.

The Wild kids


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:29 pm 
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I always install the pipes onto the exhaust studs loosely.
Barely starting the nuts.
Install the collector then tighten all the exhaust nuts.
I use the copper locknuts.
Those won't seize to the stud, they are 12mm so the nut flats don't hit the welds on the flanges.
They have that undercut that needs to face the flange.
That also helps with flange weld clearance.
After your run the engine enough to put some decent heat into the heads, shut it off,
let it cool then re tighten the exhaust nuts.
Sometimes take 2-3 heat cycles doing this until the nuts stay tight.
If you don't do it like this, you'll pop an exhaust gasket in short order...... :)

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