my motor recently started to spit some fire out the exhaust/sputter and pop when its under a load i have not changed anything with the motor it just out the blue started new plugs new ignition new fuel pump checked for intake leaks cleaned jets checked wires for shorts best i could has gas in tank this time any other suggestions its driving me crazy

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points or electronic

its a dui distributor

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Check for a bad ignition switch or maybe a short in the wire feeding your ignition or distributor. Take a jumper wire and hot wire the distributor and try it. If it goes away then your problem is one of the two things here.

Sorry forgot to mention I put in new switch and wires with a previous issue a couple weeks ago im gonna cueck valves tomorrow after work im running low on ideas

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

As bad as this may sound, pull the heads and check for a crack between the valves. I've had that same problem before and that was it.

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Maybe low float levels? Or low fuel pressure?

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Check your timing I've had my distributor be off after a good hard ride

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when in doubt use the skinny pedal!

As simple ad it sounds check the header gaskets my popped and cracked like crazy an it turned out to have 3 header gaskets blew out

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What do you mean your in limp mode?

Have done timing no affect also checked exaust sometime yo7 can advancd timing and it will help for a few but then it messes up again

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when you say new ignition, what do you mean? Did you put a new distributor? have you tried putting the old wires back on?

We put a davis unified ingnitions distributor in it its a chevrolet dui distributor with the coil in the top milled down for a vw
trying to fix the issue and it didnt change u can set timing then run it and timing changes so were running out of options

maybe I am saying the obvious thing but make sure you are at tdc on cyl 1 and not 3. if you are at the right place then install old distributor and see how she does.

To me , the 1st sign of spittin and poppin under a load is low compression. It's where your compressed fuel and air escapes and the cylinder becomes too lean to burn correctly under the demanded load. I hope that sounded right. lol Again, All motors should have a vacuum port for a $15 vacuum gauge. Below the butterfly valve! READ UP ON VACUUM TEST! Do it now while you are on your compt! So I can stop beggin yall to do so!

It did the same with the old distributor bought a new one cause I needed one anyway and still same also new wires and im hopeing its not a internal problem dave but it may be im jist going over all the things it could be befor motor comes off or appart

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What do the spark plugs look like as far as color? Run it with it popping and missing and shut down under those conditions. Dont let it go back to idle, just shut it off. The collor of the plugs will tell you alot.

Ok will do that tomorrow and report back

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jesse is failing to mention that you can set the timing, run/ride it and the timing will change... grab the front pully and turn it and it moves several degrees before the rotor button begins to turn... it has slack in it. not sure anybody knows how long the motor has been together but it is getting tired and time for a tear down

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Yep shes wore out. It either has a crap load of end play or the gear on the crank is shot and loose on the crank.

I said above you can advance timing sometime not always and it will help till you get down on it again me and joehave discused the drive gear but wanted some other suggestions befor I do a rebuild of the motor we wanna cover everything on the out before going in

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Also end play is good im afraid its the gear on crank but hope not

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But did you check the comp. Did you check the comp? Kevin said his did that and it was cracked heads. That's true! he was loosing comp. With 10 11 12 13 14:1 compression ratio and bad rings valves heads sealing surfaces can't sqeeze it and hold it , where is your 14:1fuel/ air mixture going? all that dynamite is skeeting out a crack and leaving a lean mixture to burn under a load. Lean your motor out and it will pop.

I dont habe the ability to at my shop will habe to wait till joes back from kentucky

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If you are close to HF they have some compression test kit: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ssion+test

Not your high quality gauges but close and consistent enough for a quick check.

well did a comp test one side has 30 and the other side is around 60 and it leaks like crazy out the pushrod tubes and where you put your oil in so gonna pull it off and rebuild

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