took my buggy out over the weekend and it developed a noise that has me going nuts. its loud and sounds awful but it doesn't sound like a bottom end noise and my valve lash is still good. sounds like someone tapping on the exhaust tubing with a wrench. still runs great but has me scared to death my motors coming apart. dumped the oil and it looks good so no spun bearings or anything. took the belt off to eliminate fan or alternator noise. going to pull the motor tomorrow unless anyone has any thoughts.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Like a squawk squawk squawk . Check you end play. Thrust bearing wo out. extreme carbon build up on head and piston (Is it hard to turn over right at tdc with plugs out?).Just short guesses.

when my flywheel came loose it sounded like a rod knock and it leaked oil. just last memorial weekend my motor was knocking real loud. when I took the motor apart i found that 3 teeth broke off the cam gear I would never have guessed it was the cam gear. I had everyone over there listening to it and they were saying it was a rod knock, a loose fly wheel, all kinds of things. but you never know until you take it all apart. So i would pull your motor apart to find out what is banging, before you do more damage.

endplay is good. motor not hard to turn over by hand. to new for excessive carbon build up. when I first heard it I thought maybe rod but it doesn't sound like a knock ive ever heard.

I forgot to mention it kinda goes away under load.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

does the sound change when you push in the clutch? just a guess but maybe a loose gland nut and wollowed out dowel pin holes??

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

The 1st time I put together a HIGH compression motor I did not run high octane racing fuel and the heads ran very hot and pinged . in about 6 hours of fun it had a hammer sound. Took the heads off and the carbon build up was incredible. I lowered the comp. ratio a little and ran better gas and solved. With the piston centrifigul force they would stretch out just enough to hammer but with the motor turning over by hand you won't get as much resistance especially cold I'd guess.. Your problem is in the lower end but just keep this in mind for the future. You could see the shape of the piston in the carbon on the head and vise versa.

Engine will make a clicking noise noise when cranking to start and sometimes at idle.......a rattle type sound.

The dead give-a-way is the aluminum fan belt pulley will have the keyway wallowed out.........
The harmonics of a loose flywheel oscillating absolutely wipes out that keyway.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Did you happen to drop something in the carbs when you put your new covers on??

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

My friend borrowed a 1835 I had in the shed, he put it on and ran it for a bit then it started knocking. He thought it was a rod but when we took it off the flywheel came loose. Fixed the dowels and has been running it HARD all summer........

Something simple to check is header gaskets they made mine sound almost like a knock .

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What do you mean your in limp mode?

x2

Still haven't figured this out. Took engine out flywheel is tight and good. Sounds like it may be coming from the pulley side of the motor. Can I get to the can bolts if I take the oil pump out? It really doesn't sound like a rod but maybe I'm just hoping it isn't. When I turn the motor off and it stops completely it raps a couple more times which makes me think its something that rotates and is springing back and forth a couple times before it stops.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

yes just pull the oil pump and you can get to the cam bolts there.

Thanks Kevin. May try that tonight.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

I've checked everything I can check. Looks like I'm tearing the motor apart:sad:

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Took off the driverside jugs off and found lots of slop in the #3 rod bearing. Hope the crank isn't trashed. If the crank is trashed can I go larger stroke with my existing pistons and barrels?

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

unfortunately you will have to get "B" pistons... you can shim the barrels off the block to make up for a short stroke motor but im not a big fan, shimmed barrels tend to leak oil at the block..

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

You can go up to 76mm stroke with the pistons you already have without any issues. You will need barrel shims and a new set of cut to fit pushrods.

Freak, that sucks that it was rod bearing. I ran a 76 x 94 engine and they make good power, should work with your carbs as well


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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks guys if the cranks junk ill go bigger for sure. Yes Barron it does suck and I still can't figure out why. I changed the oil every ride and kept it full. Everything only has 3 rides on it. Only thing I can think is a peice of trash stuck in one of the oil galleys decided to come loose and find its way to the rod bearing.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Sounds like some trash was stuck in the case from machining kind of sucks since it was a new case. If you can when you pull it down pull all of the oil gallery plugs and blow a hurricane of air through them after tanking it. I would hate to see you go through this again.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Yeah I certainly plan on pulling all the plugs and tapping them for pipe plugs this time

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If it ain't broke ill fix that