Newly rebuild 2110 VW. Only have 12-15lbs of oil pressure at idle once engine is hot. I don't know what temp its at since I don't have a gauge. Builder installed oil pressure boost kit, I even went back and checked for myself. Drained oil, no metal flake.

15w40 Rotella, oil pressure boost kit, Motorcraft FL1A oil filter remotely mounted, running both a dog house cooler and a aftermarket cooler.

Oil pressure is 12-15lbs at 1k rpm idle, climbs when rpm's climb, just wanted too see if this is normal or I should look at something else. Thanks

thats about the same as my 1835

Paranoid, 10 psi per 1000 rpm

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I agree with the 10psi per 1k rpm but on the other hand,if I just done a fresh rebuild and it only had 10 psi hot I would be concerned. Especially with booster springs. What does it have for pressure when revved ?

I would agree.. I use 10 psi per 1K as the minimum psi. If it goes under 10psi, it is time for a rebuild. I think 10psi is pretty low for a new rebuild.

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If I rev the engine the pressure will climb. It was close too 50lbs at 3k rpm. Setting at idle its probably 12-15lbs of pressure (once its nice and warm), cold start up its around 50-60lbs.

Also had a guy tell me today oil pressure also has too do a lot with the parts used in the build. Just a run down

2110, AS41 case, 74mm crank, 94mm pistons and jugs, stock rockers on high strength rocker arms, CB 44 heads with high rev dual valve springs, CB 120 cam, full flowed case and oil pump, and dual Empi 40 carbs.

I am going to ask this, anytime you build a engine on a previously used case dont you need too line bore and machine the case?

Reason I ask is when I originally bought the engine it was in a tote in pieces. The crank had broke. I took the said parts too a reputable builder and had it assembled with a new crank. As far as I know there was no actual case machine work done. Just curious if possibly that may be my issues with oil pressure at idle.

I would run it like a beat dog. Ten to fifteen pounds hot is fine. Stock is only 8 lbs at idle

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Use your own judgment on the oil pressure issue. 9 times out of 10 that pressure is fine as long as it rises when the rpms go up. I had on that did the same thing and lasted about 2 hours in the wooods and locked up. I only run valvoline 20w50 in the winter and straight 50w in the summer. My oil pressure stays around 40 to 50 at idle hot using it.

mine is around 20 hot and its like 8 years old almost i run 20w50

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Finally lost all oil pressure, checked with manual gauge and after 20min of riding the oil pressure dropped too less than 5lbs. Started by looking at the pressure relief valves, they were fine. Moved onto the oil pump and BINGO, someone swipped my brand new cast steel heavy duty oil pump and replaced it with a wore out aluminum pump. The gears had already ate into the cover and the pump itself along with the top gear was ate up where it meets the cam. Went ahead and tore the engine completely down. After getting the rod bolts out which was a pain cause someone used red locktite on the bolts i found that rod bearing on #3 burnt from oil starvation and the crank bearing on the trush side had been FUCKING FILED too fit the case instead of cutting the thrush and installing the correct bearing. Now I have too send the case and crank too Drew's and have the trush cut, line bore checked, and crank polished.

I've noticed you have been very polite in referencing Builder/ someone even after finding some sketchy things in your motor. Hopefully you could return your box of parts to him and expect a good engine back, minus the aggravation. Good luck.

2nd time its been too this guy, wont go back. I'm building it myself this time and he said he would cover all cost and parts. We will see what happens.

That sucks

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i know its a little farther north from you but i took mine to rons machine shop in dayton ohio, its right down the street from larrys off road...quick turn around,great people and highest quality work!

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Hey,can you hand me those zip ties and that roll of duct tape?!

Shipped case out yesterday too Drews, crank was dropped off at a local shop.

Drews ended up cutting my line bore and thrush too .080, crank was able too be polished. The previous builder has sent me all new parts that I had requested, just waiting on my main bearings now and a check for what I'm out with sending the case off and machine work. Did find out that people sometimes will file the thrush bearing too fit the case too try and save as much of the case as possible. Brian at Drews said my line bore was a very loose .040 and .060 would've missed one of my saddles so apparently it didnt get line bored the first time it was built.

I found a local VW junk yard and picked up 3 VW engine cases (2 AS41 and a AS21) but later found out the AS21 was warped. Now I need too send these too Drews and get these cut so I can go ahead and build a 2276 with one and have a spare.

Does anyone ever bolt the 2 empty case halves together and shine a strong lite from one side? A overheated warped case will show lite where the halves meet. May be my oil starving problem...

Thats how I found out the AS21 case was warped