He guys, I have some gas in the buggy... trying o get it to start... It turns over and never tries to fire... I opened up the carbs and I can see gas in them and if I work the cross bar I see gas spray... so I can only assume that they are OK (I do smell it too)... However I pulled a plug and stuck it in the plug wire and held the electrode to the frame and I see no spark... tried two different plug wires to be sure and nothing... so might be on to something... I tested the coil and it falls into spec with my meter... the distributer is a 009E with a pentronics module in it (its an all black module so may be knock off)... I bought this a long time ago with the understanding that it should work. well not so sure right now... can you folks tell me how to test? I do see this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7993715_do-test-pertronix-ignition.html

I just so happen to have an old 009 distributer in the garage, has points, but no condenser... so I don't think they cost a lot... going to run down the street and pick one up. I am about as broke as I can be right now... so if its not thins I will be stuck wondering... But with points I will be able to see the spark...

thoughts?

i would say it is your ignition or if u have a msd box it could be that to

make sure you have power to the coil while your cranking. a bad ignition switch could cut ignition power while cranking. to check your electronic ignition just put a test light on both terminals of the coil it should flash while you crank it. also take your cap off and make sure your rotor is actually turning.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Going to try the following:

This coil you are using, is it from a VW? If not, you should check that the primary coil resistance is in the 3-4ohm range. You do this by:
Remove all wires from the coil

Set your multimeter to read resistance (ohms) at the lowest range (<20 ? )

Place one test lead on the + terminal and the other on the - terminal

You should read between 3 to 4ohms of resistance between the two terminals

Move the test lead from the + terminal to the large center terminal and set your meter to read in the 20K range. You should get a reading in the 7K to 10Kohm range.

Now, how can you test your coil?....
Connect the 12v+ source to the coil + terminal

Insert the coil wire into the center post and hold the other end near a ground, 2mm should be good (distributor cap clamps make a good ground). You may want to use insulated pliers for this.

Using a jumper wire, connect the coil - terminal to ground for 1 second and then remove the wire from the terminal. When the wire is removed, a spark should jump from the center coil wire to ground.

If that worked, your coil is probably good.

Next, rotate the engine until the ignition points are closed.

Connect the green wire from the points to the coil - terminal.

Using a plastic or wood stick, push the point contacts apart. The center coil wire should spark as the points open. This tests that the points are properly grounding when they close.
If the coil sparked with the jumper wire but not with the points, suspect the points or condenser.

I have points and condenser in and now I am getting some popping and whatnot from exhaust... Can you folks tell me where the plug wires go on the distributor... I thought I knew but might be wrong since its not starting...


I put the distributer on #1 cyl (rotor pointing to #1) and on the Dist. cap at that location have #1 plug wire going there... next one going clockwise is #4, then #3 then #2... Is this wrong? If so what should I di?

Also have condenser wire going to the neg. side of the coil (-1) and coil wire going to positive side (+15)

I have valves set to loose 0... should I change that?

please let me know...

for #1 cyl on dist rotor shold point more tward the fule pump

Hmm so get rotor at #1 direction and then start #1 plug wire on the next spot?

like this (even though #1 plug TDC would be where #2 is?)

dont even worry about rotor just put wires like the picture

OK I have them just like the pic, and it pops some but will not start... thoughts?

might try turning dist alittle timming might be off

Yeah I have tried, turned a little to the right (clockwise) and no good... as it is in the pic it pops through the carbs, if I rotate it a lot it will pop from exhaust. You think my valves are off... and how can I tell for sure they put the dist. drive back in the right way?

if the dist is seated all the way down its in right.get the mortor to tdc on #1 cly and your rotor button should point to #1 plug wire on dist.

hmm...

OK if I have the piston up and rotor pointing to it (#1) how can I tell its not 180 out? I loosened the valves and I see intake and exhaust are really tight and the exhaust on #2 is loose and the intake is tight. If I rotate it 360 Deg. so the rotor points to #4 than the intake and exhaust are loose on the #1 piston... but the rotor is pointing to #4.

you can turn the motor a little if ex valve on #2 cly rocks back and forth your on top dead center #1

rotor should point to post on dist where #1 plug wire is

its 180 out... I rotated to TDC and made sure it was the right one by rocking the pulley and seeing the exhaust on #2 rocking... then I set the valves to loose 0.

Now to make sure the plugs are on right... do I pit #1 cyl on the #3 location and then going clockwise 4,3,2 ?

I did that and it tries to start up but there are lots of backfireing and such...

that dont sound right but where ever the rotor is pointing with #1 at tdc #1 plug wire would go there and then 432

did you try and reinstall the dist?

Your gear does not have to be in the right place. I would pull the covers pull up tdc see what intake and exhaust is closed then put your plug wire on the one the rotor is on. Do this on all 4 then I would do the timing test light then I bet I will fire up

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

I got it running... I pointed the notch in the distributor to #3 as well as the rotor and then put the plug wires in starting with #3 as #1 plug, then 4,3, and 2... it started first turn of the key. Now I just need to fool with the 44mm Carbs...

look for that thread next lol

was nice to see it run

hood to hear

I have it idled high so it could bake the paint in... but I wanted to show that it idles solid... One odd thing, once I tuned it by ear (timing I mean) and turned it off the starter is having a hard time turning it over... you think the timing is doing that or you think the starter is not strong enough to turn it over?

thnx

most likely the timming