Ok so for starters how can I be sure the lash caps are seated all the way? They are super tight. And for the adjustable push rod.. Should I need to cut it down or just put it in and tighten the rocker at top dead center and adjust till I get the measurement I need? I will post pics... Seems like I needed the arm to be square at half lift?

Pics will follow!!!

the 1st thing we need to know is what type rocker arms you got?

there are several threads on the samba about rocker geometry also to give you a general idea

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Chris

there the scat pro rockers: (been so long I can remember if there 1.4 or 1.25)...

Anyone know where I can rent a dial indicator with a stand? I don't see myself needing it after this build (or if I do I will buy it next round).

Looks like I can start my rocker arm geometry till I can accurately read half lift. I have a degree wheel but who knows what's what on those things these days.

I am looking... now for used as well as rentals!!!

Heck, would this work? Its cheap enough where even if it was a one time use thing I would be OK with that:
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

that's what I use plus their dial indicator with a piece of angle iron bolted down on the exhaust studs to stick it on

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Chris

those would be 1:25's , the 1:4's are red anodized , as for the lash caps take a small ball peen hammer & tap very lightly on each of them & then look & make sure they look uniform ( as for how much they are sticking out ) or take a true straight edge & hold it across them to make sure !!

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ive quit selling used post holes by the truckload cause charlie has cut my price !

Thanks guys... I picked up the dial indicator and stand... Going to try to set it all up later tonight. Iva will follow. Thanks

OK, first go at it, I pointed to #1 valve and put the dial indicator on the valve and got a few dif readings (depending on how I set the angle of the dial indicator) I tried to keep it in line with the valve (visible through the exhaust opening). I ended up with a consistent .590.5, so half lift should be .295.25 (yes I know - going to be hard to get the .25). Anyway, is ther anything about those numbers that tell me its too much lift, or no not really?

W110 cam
1.25.1 rockers
CP performance H beam rods (stock length)

I am off to get a sharpie so I can get some wipes, looks like the rockers are good out of the box for the side adjustment (just a hair off center to the right) but the wipe will show that.

more to follow:

Ok... The .60 shim makes it dead on... The wipe is a tad high but almost dead center, but a slight offset to the right... The adjuster is exactly in line with the push rod... Now I do have a difference in pushrods length though between 1/2 and 3/4... If I remember right the case had an uneven deck (need to read my old build stuff where I set the deck) but its just a tad.... I set the adjuster 2 full turns from bottom to allow for some adjustment and better oiling of the rocker arm... However on 3/4 side with same shim and same length pushrod tool it will only allow me to turn it out 1.75 turns so its about a quarter turn off... I don't think that will be a big deal in this situation.

Now you have any thoughts on how I can cut the push rods? I would need to jig it up somehow so it's an exact cut for all pushrods...

1/2 - 3/4 difference from one side to the other is a lot

if the pic of the pushrod and adjuster inline is at half lift then it looks ok to me, I usually just go 1 - 1 1/2 out on the adjuster though cause as things get seated/wore in you will most likely run the adjuster in, about the only reason to have to run one out would be if a valve/seat was sucking up in the head or a valve was stretching and about to break

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Chris

That's cool... I can redo the push rod tool so the adjuster is at 1.5 turns out... I measured and for me it seemed like 2 turns put the oil hole in line with the area on the adjuster that also had the hole...

If I remember my deck was off .003 from left to right... So I am sure that this is why I see the dif. I am not going to sweat that... It's more like less than a quarter turn on the valve adjuster.

I am going to try to cut the push rods tomorrow after I check one last time to be sure it's same measurement.

Another question... For the dial indicator, if it sweeps 5 times and then lands on 90 is that .590 or .510? I thought it was .590 but someone said it was .510. Which makes sense now that I think about it... Need to recheck my stuff.

Example, is this .578 or.522?

you can slot the adjuster with a dremel if the oil hole/groove don't match

and for the indicator reading, it depends on how you set it up but as it is in the pic I would say it is reading .078", however if you had the valve at full lift and the indicator zeroed with no preload and the dial made 5 complete rounds (also indicated by small pointer on the face) and continued to its current position then that would be .578", another way would be to start with valve at 0 lift and preload the indicator, if you went that route then yes you have count backwards off of zero so to speak, .080" would actually be .020" and .020" would actually be .080" but a full round is still .100", and of course the little pointer will backwards also, I find it easier to just keep up with rounds visually if using the indicator in this manner

hope this helps and didn't sound too confusing, im much better at "showing" than "telling"

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Chris

Thanks man... That confirms it then... In my case I started the valve all the way up and preloaded the dial indicator... So when I turned it so it was fully compressed it spun counter clockwise... So like you said... My 90 is 10 and my 80 is 20 and so on... So in my pic above after 5 full counter clockwise turns it stopped on 78 where in fact it's really 22 in this case... For a total of .522... Then devide by 2 and you have half lift...

Got it... I need to remshim.


Should only take a sec... How about cutting the push rods? I am thinking hack saw and then true them up with a grinder.... Might be able to jig them in a piece of pipe or something... Well look at this tomorrow.

there are a few ways of cutting the push rods, I prefer to have them done in a lathe but many folks use chop saws, tubing cutter, band saw, etc....if you bow hunt or know somebody that does ive even heard of folks using a arrow cutting machine

just make sure to debur inside and out and that it is a even/flat surface for the tip to seat against

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Chris

Well I cut the push rods and put them together and they are abtadbto long... Can I grind a tad off the ends or is it possible to pull the tips back off... I thought it was dead on... But looks like the push rod tool must have moved...

Sorta stuck... I had to press the tips in... I don't see them coming out.

How much is a little bit? I would not grind on the tips as they will wear either the lifter or the rocker. Is it possible to adjust the rocker so that as they wear in they will be the exact length?

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I trashed them trying to get the tips off, lesson learned... Looking for another set now... This screws up my week...

Anyone have a set?

Good ole JayCee USA pushrods will be here next week...

HD .058 wall racing pushrods cut ,10 13/16th, assembled and shipped in US

till then I am just cleaning up the buggy (wires and loose ends) and need to do something about my garage... looks like a German Warfare... I have parts all over the place...

also need to get the oil hoses the rest of the way on the fittings no way they will ever come off... that is if I can ever get them on.

All done