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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:09 pm 
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I usually make sure the bypass screws are slightly bottomed out before I even start adjusting or jetting, if you cant get the idle circuit right light that then try 1/2 round out, ive not seen one over 1 round out unless there was other contributing factors

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:30 am 
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I thought the bypass screws where to synchronize the air flow on both sids of the carb. Thats what I did with my dual 44's. First turn them all the way in, put the synchronizer in each hole and find the highest flow then adjust the others to match.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 4:56 pm 
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that's what I read about the bypass screws, they were to even out flow when adjusting for 2 carbs but I guess Could be used if 1 side of carb is unable to be brought down to the other side correct?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:01 pm 
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I put one of those laser thermometers on header primary tubes to see temps and cylinders 1 & 3 are quite a bit hotter than the other 2. Pulled valve cover and made sure valves were adjusted correctly and all seems fine?? I'm going to re-check everything when I get home 2nite but something doesn't seem kosher about it. I put all new plugs in when I put carb on to try and make tuning a little easier and to eliminate plugs being an issue. To be such a simple setup and very mild setup compared to 80%+ of the motors on here, sure is giving me enough issues!!! Guess that's part of learning... :x

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:06 am 
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hillaholic wrote:
I thought the bypass screws where to synchronize the air flow on both sids of the carb. Thats what I did with my dual 44's. First turn them all the way in, put the synchronizer in each hole and find the highest flow then adjust the others to match.


technically you are correct but sometimes they can help a slightly rich idle circuit if the proper jets is not handy or so ive been told by a few old school mechanics

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:53 pm 
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well I've still yet to get rid of the bad dead spot at mid range/mid throttle.... As long as you either barely throttle it or push it on down it'll clear out. That's what's making me think it's something to do with accelerator pump or acc. pump adjustment. From what I've read as the purpose of the acc. pump is to add a little extra fuel to give main jets a little time to meter correctly. When driving it and you press throttle around halfway it bogs and coughs/spits. Then when holding same throttle position when it starts cutting out you can press throttle on down and it takes a sec but will clear out. That's what is making me think that it's too much fuel but I could be wrong. I know it's damn near impossible to try and diagnose a vehicle online from someone that is describing it. Everyone interprets everything differently and makes it hell on me when trying to describe it on here!! I know the weber guru's on here could tell what it is in a matter of seconds if I gave the exact needed info!! Few of us are supposed to go riding tomorrow but at this rate I prob won't go unless I manage to find the culprit with this carb!!!! :x

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:13 am 
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I know that some of you have stressed on correct fuel pressure and that it HAS TO BE right, how big of difference does too much fuel pressure make on one of these weber IDF's?... Yes you can take a guess on why I'm asking, put a gauge on it today to try and eliminate one more possible issue and pretty sure I found a, if not THE PROBLEM with the way it's running. Gauge is reading right at 7psi for some reason even though these pumps are sold under the impression they operate at 4psi... Would that extra 3-4psi be enough pressure to push thru needle/seat and cause it to act flooded? I'm gonna go ahead and make the assumption that much pressure won't work. Is optimal fuel pressure 3.5psi correct? I'm going first thing in the morn to parts store and pick up a cheap regulator and try it. Have any of you all used any fuel pumps like this one I have? It's an Alba Racing universal inline pump. Heres link to the pump. Yes I feel terribly dumb for overlooking this possible issue...NO I doubt it'll be anywhere near the last dumb mistake I'll make... :cry:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/inline-fuel-pump-12v-4psi-universal-in-line-fuel-pump-for-carburetor-carbureted-/170931218689?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cc4b6901&vxp=mtr#ht_2478wt_1141

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:44 pm 
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yeh your gonna need a regulator with an electric pumphttp://www.appletreeauto.com/FUEL-P ... ATOR-1540/ somehing like this , start at 3 psi i would think

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:51 pm 
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well got my fuel pressure straightened out but still no change in how it's running... I've sprayed starter fluid trying to locate a possible vacuum leak without any luck... Still scratchin my head on this one as the way it's jetted it might not be exact but should definetely do better than what it does. It's to the point now when you push throttle it wants to pop and backfire thru exhaust? it will pretty much try and clear out when you press throttle on down all the way but not making a lot of sense to me... With a pertronix ignition and bosch coil, what should plugs be gapped at? Not sure if that would have any affect on what it's doing but trying to start at square 1 and figure this thing out...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:04 am 
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I usually just put them in right out the box :oops: but when I do check the gap I set them at .035" with just petronix and .040" if it has msd

if you not having a fuel supply or firing problem and it keeps getting worse sounds like you need to pull all jets and air screws and blow out all the air passages and jets

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:02 pm 
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Is there any water in your fuel? A bottle dry gas will remove it if there is any? :?:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:00 pm 
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I had already drained all the fuel and put new gas in it thinking that might have been issue

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 5:00 pm 
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did you check your intake gasets ? make sure the leak isnt there!snug up the bolts and check there as well. did you put jet doctors on it yet? them idle jets can get plugged up pretty easy. also have read many forums where people say just cause its a new carb" doesnt mean its a clean carb" :roll: just food for thought.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 6:29 pm 
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Not to beat a dead horse but did you drain the accelerator pump and change the fuel filter

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:08 pm 
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might be time for an expert just saying


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:48 pm 
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you know anyone near to ya that has the same carb that would be willing to let ya borrow theirs baybe elimate the carb being the problem????


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:17 pm 
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took accelerator pump cover off the other night to inspect for any obvious damage without any luck. Buggy was running fine the day I pulled the 32/36 weber progressive off to put the 40IDF on... I backed the accelerator pump adjusting nut off a couple turns at a time until the throttle response was best. Has great throttle response as long as it's just sitting parked. Doesn't start acting up until you put a "load" on it and give it around mid throttle. Checked intake boots/gaskets the other night and have went over about everywhere with can of starting fluid hoping to find a vacuum leak. but no luck... Have some smaller (50) idle jets on their way hoping it might just be too rich on idle circuit. Currently has 55's in it but even tried some 60's... Specs on carb are:
Idle-55
Main-130
Air corrector-200
Venturi-28mm
F11 emulsion tubes
pump jet-50

I know everyones getting tired of seeing this thread by now, hell I know I am!! But for all who have tried to steer me in right direction and help I GREATLY APPRECIATE IT! BIG TIME!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:07 pm 
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well I thought I'd look into a few other places besides carb that could possibly be causing my problem... Ran compression test today before work and all cylinders are at 90psi except for #4 which was right at 80psi. everywhere I've read said if less than 100psi, need to check top end for either problem with rings or heads. But the compression tester I used is pretty old and I can't validate the accuracy of the gauge itself. With 3 cylinders with 90psi & one with 80psi, could this verywell play a part in the gremlin I've been chasing contributing to the miss/stumble???

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 12:45 pm 
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are you opening your throttle when checking compression? runs good in neutral, runs bad under load? i think i seen in here somewhere you checked timing but this could easily be a timing issue. did you check timing with a timing light or static timing? static timing with a test light will get your idle timing more precise. if you dont know how to static time search "vw static timing" on you tube.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:45 am 
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opening throttle when checking compression? You mean open throttle when checking timing I'm guessing? Yeah I've set the timing and bought new set of NGK's and it's a little better. But it still only runs good at full throttle, it bogs and coughs at mid throttle still. But it's gonna be put to the side for awhile I'm afraid...Got it out today since it was so nice and grenaded the 3 rib... Too early to tell as I haven't pulled tranny yet but I'm thinking it's going to be ring/pinion problem. Doesn't matter what gear it's in, it'll start to take off but immediately pops and bucks when it starts to move. Clutch is still working properly. And correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ring/pinion the weak link in 3 rib???..... Like I said it's gonna be put to side for a little bit most likely cause of the tranny, and that we probably fixing to head to hospital within next few hours I'd say... Wife is timing contractions right now! :shock: I've already got the car loaded up and ready to go whenever she is, I was just getting ready to climb in bed when she started having pains....No sleep tonight I'd say!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:21 am 
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you may have just broken spider gears or possibly even a cv joint?

ive seen a few broke 3 rib r@p's (mainly due to a failed pinion bearing or loose/stripped pinion nut) but out of about 10 I broke, they were mostly 1st gear and a couple got the spider gears, all of mine were pulling 33" and or 35" boggers on heavy steel wheels and running a 1915 and or 2332 engines

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 3:25 am 
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well haven't been on here in few days and damn sure havent' even had chance to tear buggy apart...Been kinda busy!!! Shortly after I posted on here the other night we ended up going to the hospital (about 2:30am...) and at 10:56am he was born!! had to end up doin emergency c section due to cord being wrapped around his little neck but all went great and we got to come home wednesday around lunch. He weighed in at 5lb 15oz but perfectly healthy thank god. A big relief needless to say, there were some tense moments during the coarse of monday morning!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:05 am 
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Congrats. Glad to hear everything ended up good. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:44 pm 
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congrats and you just thought that carb was giving ya problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:27 am 
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holeman wrote:
congrats and you just thought that carb was giving ya problems.


x2 8)

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