Ok so I had a short block built and drilled and tapped for the full flow system. Picked it up friday and put the rest of the engine together. Filled it with oil then cranked it for a bit to get oil up into cooler and filter and what not, rechecked and fired engine up to break in cam. Ran for 4 min and locked tight. Didnt make a sound no knock no nothing just locked up. I pulled the oil out line off the front of pump cover and the line was dry. What does that mean? Do I have to bleed the systm or is the pump not working???? Very disgusted at this point. Had a lot of money in it. Thought I would talk to you guys before I ripped my VW guy a new a** hole. Thanks for the help.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Some are are hard to prime. Do u have an oil light ?? We tip engine back and turn it over til light goes out to prime it . Some are pain to get oil pressure. Also were the bearings in correct ? Did a crank bearing miss the dowel pin it was supposed To set in that will lock it up.

We had the block put together by a vw shop so I assume everything was put together rite. We do not have a oil light. The other thing I nocited is he put a 67-70 oil pump in it and the engine is a 72-74. The 72 and later run the dished cam rite?

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Yes the oil pump is wrong. Does the pump or the the case or both have a pug in them force the oil out to the cooler ? The later oil pump has a much bigger outlet and inlet than earlier.

Man this is something you really have to watch for on start up of new engines. I always tell my customers to leave the fittings off of a full flow pump or pressure gauge fitting off of normal block and leave the sparkplugs out while you crank the engine so you can take time to make sure the pump picks up prime. After that, hook up the fittings, crank till you see 20# and install sparkplugs and start. Hope you did'nt hurt it.

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Aircooled power!

Turn out the cam was rite. I didn't know you had to prime it. It locked up and won't break free. I'm going to replace all the bearings and try again. Ill leave the fittings off and make sure it pushes oil into the lines before I fire it this time. You live you learn I guess

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Where does the oil pressure gauge hook up to on the block? The gauge is electrical rite? I have a thing in the side of my block the has 1 male plug sticking out of it. Is that for the pressure gauge or the light? Thanks again for the info its been very helpfull.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

The fitting for the sender is on the side of the case near the dis. If u have a stock sender with one prong u use a light . Run a wire from that to a light and hook the the other light terminal to power . When u don't have oil pressure the sender will ground out and turn the light on. I just don't trust a guage. If u end up using a light put it where u can see it easily.

I have not heard anyone suggest packing the oil pump with Vaseline, I have don this and works very well.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

I agree. I have always packed the pump gears with vaseline to make them prime fast. I just change the oil after It has a ran a bit.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Thats a great idea I never thought of that. Thanks all. Just pack the pump gears full?

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Yep it will prime alot faster and easier.

I have had good luck priming full flow setups by removing the pressure hose from the full flow cover at the filter and squirting a quart of oil down the hose to prime the pump then quickly reattach the hose and fire the engine. I know that lots of people use vasaline on the pump but I can not force myself to use a product designed for dry skin in an engine. Hopefully you can replace the bearing and polish the crank and everything will be good. If you dont run a pressure gauge, at least use an idiot light.
Good Luck
Kenric

Vaseline is petroleum based product been using it for decades. Your going to run break in oil and drain it anyway within 500 miles. Sure beats running an engine dry and burning up a crank or a set of bearings.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

This may be a stupid question. Why does the oil pump need primed only on a newly built engine? If buggy sat all winter would it need primed then to? We replaced all the bearings and will try to prime and fire it up friday or saturday. Thanks for all the help. I feel much more comfy about the whole thing now. Thanks again everyone

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Just an up date. I got the pump to prime this time thanks to the tips from you all. Thank you. Engine is all broke in. Going to change the oil and set the valves this morning then take her out for a rip. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the help. I am fairly new to the VW AC world and everything I have learned about it I learned rite here on this site. I hope to meet some of you in person some day. Thanks again to everyone here for the help. Happy riding, spring is here

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If it breaks it dont belong in there