Im not a good trouble shooter never have been ive replaced distributor with new one just put a brand new set of big valve heads on and still wont run worth a shit its gonna go up for sale real quick as is if i cant get this thing figured out i cant afford to keep dumping money into this thing it cuts out and falls on its face when you get into the throttle and never recovers from it ive set floats accordingly got the distributor in time synced the carbs and still the same my big question is the coil i have a 3.0 ohm coil on it can you run points with this coil or is it to much resistance

Are you running points now, or do you have electronic ignition.

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Run what you brought, and hope you brought enough!!

Points now had electronic ignition in it. It burnt up shortly after i put it in and just went back with points

condenser on the side of the dist. weights down inside the dist need a little oil .carb pump diaphram busted, a wire grounding out in the dist,the 2 plates down in the dist not sliding on each other (oil)..rod adjustment on carb pump.water in gas.spark plug wire ends need clipped and re screwed,baaaad compression.valve adjustment too tight.and as always , a bad key switch playing games with coil voltage (bypass switch temporaily to check)

I have new distributor in it little idle time in garage on it rod on carb pump looks to be turned in all the way new piston and cylinders new 40 35.5 heads installed yesterday just put weber 44s on today took my junk empis off new points and condenser good bosch plug wires new plugs valve lash set at .006 dist set at 32 degree advanced at about 2600rpm. I seen a online video of them setting the 009 to 7.5 degrees advanced motor off. What are you guys running yours at i have a petronix flame thrower coil with stock points and condenser ive been seeing online i need to switch back to oem coil if im running stock points its showing some symptoms im having right now so im going to try that tommorow but please any input or advice you have please share figuring out uf im running the right coil is my big question right now i had petronix electronic ignition on my motor with the flame thrower coil that was recommended for that ignition to be covered under warranty i did away with that and went back to stock points now with this same coil which i dont think is right

tough one.But yousaid the pump rod is turned in all the way,,, If it is in ALL the way it can not squirt a full charge.

Passat if im thinking of the rod you are talking about between the two barells at the bottom of carb that has the spring on it and the arm that pushes on that diaphram that nut is turned in as far as it can go i havnt touched that but it was the same way on my empi duals as it is on the weber duals im running now so the further i back this nut off the more fuel itll plunge for acceleration?

Yes turn that nut out. Bout 1/8 in. From end and go from there . That should never be screwed all the way in . And your air screws should be 1.5 to 2.5 turns out . When u screw them all the way in to count your turns be careful and don't Tighten them u will break the needle off . Just find where they bottom out

Ok i messed with the fuel rod it didnt make a difference for me i just put my dual weber 44s on, my motor is a 1915cc engle 110 cam 40 35.5 heads. 009 distributor points and condenser my idle jets are 50s venturies are 36mm the main jets (two tall jets in center of carb) f-11 tubes and i think the jet on the very bottom was a 40 i can check to make sure on that jet i know this isnt right for the motor thinking i should go with a smaller set of venturies but do you think 28s would be too small should i go with 30 or 32? Ive done everything under the sun it seems like. im starting to regret even giving this buggy thing another try ive i just ran the buggy fund dry and taking some serious thought on parting with it i dont want to but the money just isnt there anymorealso what are you guys setting your timing at (at idle? And advanced?) Valve clearence?

The venturies are definately too big.30mm would be the biggest I would suggest. Set the timing @ 30-32 degrees at 2500rpm

Well it ran well today besides one of my rockers loosening up on me but luckily cought it in time i think a little more tuning on the carbs itll be ready finally im gonna check valve clearence again tommorow. Make sure its good and timing is set between 30 and 32 degrees at 2500 rpm how long do you guys recommend running a brand new set of heads before checking valves again thanks for the help guys

Alright just when i think the headache is over it comes back again now im not firing on number 4 and number 1 dont seem to be getting to warm itself. The other day number 1 did not fire so i put diff plug wire on and it seemed to be firing now number 4 isnt firing at all i have spark to the plug their is fuel going there and valve lash is set to. 006. I am going to do compression test but these were brand new pistons cylinders and heads on this motor also noticed the button in my rotor cap was stuck up in the hole like it melted there or something can a key switch cause all this if so then ill buy one to see

Just a guess. wo' out distributor bushings letting the shaft wobble. OR, back in the 90's some distributors were sent out with lobes not to spec and many a people were ill about it and they HAD to run electronic ignition to make it work. OR a crack between those to terminals on the cap. OR sp. plug wires crossed.Dist 180 out (put some thought into that one).

well? But above all, like I always tell people ... Unscrew your sp. plug wires and clip a 1/2" of wire off and rewscrew on to the sp plug boot.Sometimes even if it is brand new.

My compression on my cylinders are reading below 100 on all around 90 to 95 on 3 and the 4th is lower than that the new pistons and cylinders dont have much run time on them. And now that i did a compression test i can only get it to fire on 1 cylinder and thats number 4 cylinder which is the one i couldnt get to fire before is the only one firing

coil

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

What would be a good compression reading on this motor and i can try and put another coil on again i just put this brand new coil on a few weeks ago and only been starting it to let it run to try and get all these issues fixed

90 psi is a little low but thats probably because the cylinders are washed with fuel id say your okay on compression.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Was the deck hieghth on the old heads raised pretty high and the new heads not at all?just a shot...

The old heads measured the same as the new ones i measured from the surface of the head to were the jug would bottom out imside the head if the compression seems alright then i think ill change the key switch thats the only thing i have not yet done

pull your coil wire off the distributer and hold it close to ground and crank the engine the spark should be able to jump atleast a 1/2" to ground if not your coil is bad. No you should not use the 3 ohm coil thats for electronic ignition. points uses a non internaly resisted coil. go to advance and get a bosch coil for an old beetle and it should work great.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

I know you are frustrated but you did use the rite jug kit.The stroker or the reg.Basically,did the piston come to the top pretty much.

Its probably a 1/8 or 3/16 to inch from being flush even with the jug. It ran fine before and right before labor day last year it just started running like crap nothing was touched besides putting nee plug wires on and i just put those on to have a fresh set on the old ones were still fine. I even tried putting them back on but it didnt make a difference

carb freeze and bust internally over the winter.(Black smoke, too much fuel washing the oil out of the rings,runs uneven).Check for intake leaks? A vacuum gauge will tell you EVERYTHING! A vacuum gauge is 5 times smarter than all of us.

Carl. see what you can do with that ol buggy...they been pullin on that thing all day..