Ok so here is some background on my buggy and riding style. Its warrior frame with a solid built 3 rib trans. 5.38 R&P running 31x12.50x15 v-treads. Chromoly type 2 stubs and axles. Type 2 Cvs all the way around. Most of my riding is trails but I like to play on the hills a bit. I have a semi heavy right foot at times so 6000 RPMs is not out of the question lol. I would like to build an engine with good low end power but will take the 6000 RPMs if I need it to. Im not rich but not affraid to put a good chunk of change into this build. It needs to be reliable. Any thoughts would be great. You all are the pros so I figured Id come here for advice. Thanks ahead of time for all the help. BTW I love this site. Wish I would have joined a long time ago

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Ok, I got basically a Warrior frame, 3 rib w/ 5.38 r&p, type 2 cv's, stubs, axles, but what type of engine is on your buggy now. If you have a dual port 1600, it may be that you can do a rebuild and possibly go up to a 1776, 1835, or even a 1915cc without tearing your pocket book to shreds. Tell us what type engine you got.

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Run what you brought, and hope you brought enough!!

I know this not what you want to here but a echo tech is hard to beat for the price. If you want more power slap a turbo on it. The bottom ends will support like 400 hp factory.

I know the AC guys are going to be pissed but it is what it is. Just a suggestion.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

in my experience ,V6 w/c is too heavy to hang off the back because of wheelies and too powerful for any bus trans. I've got the scars under my hair and the busted side and nose shifts to proove it.

I'm running a stock duel port 1600 rite now. The hills I will be doing are nothing like what some of you all climb. I'm just looking for a bit more power with lots of low end grunt. Maybe 1641 with a 110 cam and good ported heads? Or do I need to go as big as a 1915? Would like to stay away from strokers for now

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Mild 1915 would be a good start. Could add good heads. Dual carbs etc down the road for more power if wanted,

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"IT IS WHAT IT IS"

if your gonna do anything , might as well go 1915!

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

Ok so if I go with a 1915 this is what I was thinking to get started. All new bottom end and flywheel with a 110 cam. Stock heads for now with a center mount weber 40 IDF. That sound about rite? Will a 40 IDF be enough once I get bigger ported heads? And will my 3 rib hold up to the 1915? Thanks all

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

I'm running a 1915 041 ported heads v15 cam and a single 40idf. Stock crank and stock rods. I build it for my spare out of what I had and runs very well. If you have the money buy a good forged crank and a set of rods. Full flow the case and change your oil every few rides. It will be good to you and last a long time. Btw my lil 1915 is pushing a 6 rib and 31x15.50x15's. If your going to build a Vw best bang for you buck. Your 3 rib will be fine as long as you don't abuse it. My 2 cents.

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Dont' be be scared. When it dought floor it!

You should be fine with a single card. I ran a 2276 with a single carb for a few years. It was always fun to watch everyone trying to adjust the dual carbs while mine just worked every time....

As for money, how much are you talking about? $1000 $2500 $5000

It would depend on how much you want to spend to decide how big you want to go. Power and performance is directly related to cost.

Here is a good article that highlights some things to think about.
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance-engines

As for AC vs WC, that really depends on your technical abilities. A VW engine is much easier to understand and work on. However, a WC will be less expensive, more reliable and have a lot more bottom end torque.

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Woodsbuggy forum is now on the Tapatalk Mobile app... (iPhone, iPad and Android devices)

What a great article you have there mickeymouse. I have to say that awnsered a lot of the questions I have about the rebuild I have to do on my 1835. Thanks for the info as usual.

I know this is off the page, but since I mentioned too much torque,I want to add this to help others. Years ago I was popping the gear off my IMA high torque starter about once a year and the factory guy said on the phone that my bellhousing was flexing and mashing the gear and the bushing it has up inside the starter.All these wheelies , blow ups money time and oh yeahs and ah damits lead me to the best narrowest shortest baby chains that can be designed.I took the 33 tooth sprocket off and put on a 20t yesterday. Should work great.All you tork lovers, watch out for your case busting from the rt diff bearring to the bell housing gasket.OH AND DO NOT START OFF IN 2ND AND DO NOT LOCK DOWN A CUT BRAKE AND DO A TIGHT CIRCLE.now back to your thread ,sorry.

you'll be proud of that. very economical aswell. $9 racing fuel to sit in the yard and evaporate is rediculous.Y'all are right,it's all about how you want to ride.All i do is follow the crowd down the road .I never need my 2100 hi c.r. motor. All i really need is a stock 1300 on pump gas.it's not strong enough to tear itself up.

Jayrod, Diamond Dave, and Rip it are all right. A mild 1915 would be a good start. The IDF40 is also a good choice. You can always add on later with heads and a set of IDF40's.

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Run what you brought, and hope you brought enough!!

I woukd build a 1835 with a nice set of heads and duals

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

My 1835 was the best engine I ever had. It was super reliable, did not overheat, plenty of power but did nto break CV's or Transmissions.

If I was upgrading a 1600, I would go with an 1835.

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Woodsbuggy forum is now on the Tapatalk Mobile app... (iPhone, iPad and Android devices)

1915 w110 or c35 1.25 rockers dual valve spring ported heads dual 40 carbs 9.5 compression .

Thank you all for the help 1915 it is.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

x2 (id go with the w110) jmo

i built one with cb o44 heads and 40 x 35.5 valves and vz 15 cam (had the whole rotating assembly balanced) with 44 carbs and 1 5/8 exhaust (was planning on a bigger engine later on), it needs 40 carbs and 1 1/2 exhaust to help the bottom end but its been together since 03 and got the living hell ran out of it for 3 year (and still gets rod checked every time i crank it lol) till i bought my 2nd buggy and a 2332, now i only get it occasionally but have yet had to turn a wrench on it other than oil changes and to clean a idle jet and that only started happening since it mostly stays in the shop

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

So I want the CB 044 heads with a single 40 carb and 1 1/2 exhaust?

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

i would suggest dul 40 carbs but if you want a single carb i would go with a 44

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris