I just replaced the stock 85mm piston and jugs with 87mm kit. it idels fine but when i start to go it bogs down and has no power. i adjusted the valves and did the static timing procedure im thinking it could be the carb. what do u guys think. realy would like to get it running so i can ride with the rest of my friends

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Sorry i forgot to mention i have a solex 34 pict 3 with a 009 dizzy. i know its not the best combo but it is what was on it when i got it

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Just a question? Did you make sure to install the pistons with the Arrow facing the flywheel or as VW defines it thr front of the engine. If so then I would look at the Accelerator pump and check the float bowl for trash. It may have a piece of crud in the jets.

Best of luck and Merry Christmas

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Yes i made sure the arrows pointed towards the fly wheel. i rebuilt the carb before i changed the jugs. i guess i can try and clean it out again. and just for the knowledge what would pointing the arrows on the pistons do. ive always pointed them the way the book says on anything i rebuilt bit no one has been able to tell me why they have to be pointed a certain way

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

The direction has to do with the wrist pin offset on the piston. If you just rebuilt the carb make sure to check the float level and double check the function of the needle and seat. Lastly check your fuel lines and filter. the ethanol fuel eats rubber.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Maybe try a compression test to c if a ring cracked or a c clip popped out if you didnt put buttons in . Also maybe double ck valve train to make sure everything is set properly .
Those are a couple things I have seen on a rebuild go wrong .
Good luck !

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

What is the compression supposed to be when i do a compression test

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Try holding your hand over Carb a little bit and work the throttle while its running and see if it changes anything.

I read in a book once that the factory has the wrist pin about a mm offset. It gives the running motor an early overcenter so the power don't come on as a smack on the piston sidewall. Basicly it makes the motor quieter by not clacking. The book says old racers used to run them backwards and clacking and they claimed 1 hole h.p. wow:) Look at a wristpin hole and you will notice it is just a hair off to the side. There is an OLD yellow book wrote around 1970 that I used to keep with my school books called "How to hot rod a VW."That book kept me from furthering myself in life because I was addicted to it.If you see it , burn it. keep a copy in your toilet in case you run out of tp.Actually it is a very good book and teaches valve geometry which really does make a difference.

Just throwing a guess out there. Did you use a jug kit for stroker motors making you have very low compression.If flames come out of the exaust when you let off, your valves are too tite because you traded push rods around.A $15 vacuum gauge at Auto Zone tells you nearly everything.Rusty crusty springs down inside your ditributor will definitly do it aswell.Shoot some machine oil on them and wiggle them and see if the weights are slinging outwards and returning fast and snappy.

I dont think i got a stroker jug kit, but im not sure how to tell. it all went back together smoothly. They slipped right in the case and the heads went on without a hitch. Ive got a vacuum gauge but havent a clue how to use it and know what its saying. I did alot of searching last night after i posted and i think i have the timing wrong.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Well guys i got it running it was the carb. i got one from a buddy and put it on and it runs fine but it gets hot pretty quick. or thats what my frieds dad is sayin. what do i do now.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

does it crank slow when your starting it? not sure if this is applicable in the vw world being as everything comes as a set but did you check your ring gaps? tight piston rings can cause overheating.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

It was kind of slow cranking over but when i put a hot battery in it it spins over fine. and no i did not check ring gaps it never crossed my mind. Will i have to tear it down again and check them? what should they be?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

im not an expert on vw engines so i would let someone else chime in before doing anything drastic. ive built plenty of smallblock chevys and i think rule of thumb was like .002" for every inch of bore. if you didnt have much trouble getting your jugs on i wouldnt think to much of it i guess. i think the first thing i would do is make sure its actually getting hot instead of taking someones word for it.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Do you have the timing set? Do you have have all he tin on engine? And how do you know its running hot?

I have the tins on and i think i have a little more to do with the timing. i dont see how its running hot. it gets hot pretty quick i know that but ive never fooled with vw before. my friends dad told me it is getting hot fast than normal. but i thought it was the way an air cooled engine ran (a little on the warmer side)

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

every time i assemble a motor all my greasy hand prints and cosmolene (that syrupy brown stuff all over a new jug kit) burn off and smokes and looks like it is overheating.

Now that you mention it my hands where pretty greasey and i did oil the cylinders good. how long does that usually last?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

My friends dad is telling me the putting the pistons in backwards (arrow pointing to rear of motor) will make it run hot. i know timing not being set right will make it run hot. am i right on that. and is it to much advance or to much retard that causes this?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I'm sure them old timers accounted for it by moving the timing, but I agree .

Well guys i got it goin. i put a different carb on it and adjusted the timing a little and she runs great.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.