bought a buggy earlier this year and I'm just now getting to working on it. Previous owner had motor and buggy built new. Just pulled motor off buggy to do some work on trans and thinking of putting this new motor on my Berrien buggy. I've got a new chrome engine tin I was planning on putting on motor in place of the stock one that has factory oil cooler on it. The were still using the factory oil cooler, but also had added a remote oil filter & cooler up near fuel tank. They had one of the oil linesa running to oil pump housing with barb fitting and other oil line is ran to the left side front of block. My question is will this setup work? Buggy hasn't been ran more than just few minutes at a time and not had a chance to really get hot. I did a search on oil coolers on here and kept seeing people talking about full flowing oil pumps? How do I tell what kind of pump I have? And should I ditch the stock cooler, the remote cooler or keep em both? Thanks

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

it sounds like you already have it set up for full flow. i myself would keep the factory cooler. this is full flow .

yes thats the exact setup that's on it. Damn it sucks cause I've got that new nice shiny tin I was gonna use on this motor but no way to use it while running the factory cooler. Lots of people I've seen run remote coolers/filters, but I haven't paid any attention to whether the factory cooler was kept. Do majority with remote cooler keep the factory as well? I just wanna make certain it's going to run cool. Shouldn't take much to cool it, just a DP 1648 with small cam

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

Alot of guys just run a remote cooler . i just choose to run stock type 4 cooler.

what all if anything has to be done to run the type 4 cooler other than widening the tin on the "doghouse"?

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Just bolt the type 4 cooler to the type 1 base and widen doghouse.

X2 I also run the type 4 cooler.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

so to run remote filter/cooler do I need to just get a block plate where factory cooler goes and use the oil lines that's ran to front of motor?

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

you can go that route or you can keep the factory cooler and doghouse AND run the remote filter and cooler alot of buggies run dual coolers including my fourseater and it works good. either way will be fine, just an option

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

how do you eliminate the stock oil cooler? im not seeing any blockoff plates or bypasses for it. can you just cut a plate and bolt it down or does there have to be flow?

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

I went ahead and ordered a blockoff plate in case I don't use factory cooler. I myself am wandering if I can run this or if it has to flow thru factory ports for oil cooler

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

i will always run the factory oil cooler best design since the electric fan

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

get one of these if you decide not to use the factory cooler and it will still allow the oil flow as intended, just put a pipe plug in the hole or use it for a temp gauge sensor

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Oil-Cooler ... p/3045.htm

plumb the oil filter and cooler in the standard "full flow" pattern and put the electric fan on a toggle switch by itself or one of the "automatic temp" switches but i prefer a toggle switch myself

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I got one he can have just pay the shipping!

that's what I ordered but unsure whether I'll use it on 2nd thought. may run the factory cooler plus the remote to be safe. Decisions decisions....lol

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--