Hey guys im pretty new at building vw motors and currently im about to start building a motor for my woods buggy and i would appericate any advice and such. First off the motor is out of a 1968 vw bus its a daul port motor. My goal is to keep it 1600cc but make as much horsepower as possible. So any tricks with porting these heads? what size cam? Carb/ carbs? Exhaust? And if you guys have any parts for sale id probily be interested in them thanks a bunch

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If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy -Red Green

You will need to get some aftermarket heads and split the case to upgrade the cam if you expect any significant power increases. In the old days we would use a slip in 88 that would bump it to a 1641 with out machine work.

I know it is taboo, if you are looking for low buck fun then consider a salvage yard echotec engine, They are inexpensive reliable and long lasting. Obviously there is some cost in the adaptor, radiator and wire harness striping but if you have some simple skills the harness can be striped on a garage floor or bench.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

if you wanna stay stock...you may as well make it a 1641. I ran a 1641 with G03 041 heads 110 cam for 4 years and went every where with that thing.

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"IT IS WHAT IT IS"

Why bother. For what it will cost you to do a VW you can almost do a water cooled motor. A 1600 or 1641 will only give you maybe 60 HP tops, kinda lame if you ask me. A 2.2L Subie puts 100HP at the ground which is plenty. The only advantage with going VW is if you already have a garage filled with VW motor parts. If you don't have a garage full and go VW you WILL have a garage filled with VW parts, if you get my drift.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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what mm pistons do i use to make it a 1641? and i wanna stay with the vw motor

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If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy -Red Green

[quote="Red Barron"] In the old days we would use a slip in 88 that would bump it to a 1641 with out machine work.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Fly cut heads and 3 angle valve grind make a world of difference on a 1641. It all depends how much you want to spend.

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I think I can, I think I can....

87mm jugs to make it 1641, I havent seen 88's in a long time.the bad thing about them was if you ran them hot they had a thing for egg shaping in the jugs.and if your buying new piston and cylinder set and plan to split the case for a cam swap then put a few more dollars with it and have it cut for 94's and build a 1915. Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

my budget is around $1200

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If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy -Red Green

ok so ive been doing some more research and here is what ive ave come up with. Gonna get 88mm pistons and cylinders make it a 1679 for around $140. Engle sells a kit that has 110 cam, cam gear, lifters, bearings, 30 mm high volume oil pump, main seal and push rod tubes for $240. Now what should i do about my induction? Is there anyone in pa who does head work? Ill do the porting myself. And should i run a single carb or dauls?

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If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy -Red Green

If you can afford it I would go for at a minimum 041 heads, Stock dual port heads are very limited. You can save the money and port the heads but a valve job should be done by a pro.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

a good two barrell dellorto or weber is tough to beat..get her dialed in and with good prefilters itll be trouble free i would opt for a smaller oil pump, the bigger ones can pump it dry at an angle and starve bearings

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Stay away from the 88mm pistons unless they are machine in cylinders. Stock valve heads with mild porting will be more that enough. 041 heads are a sales gimmick,putting a bigger intake valve in a head and using the stock size exhaust valve is a total waste and actually causes overheating problems.A 110 cam is also too much cam for an engine that small. An engle 100 or a web cam 109 would be my choice. Around 8.5 or 9:1 compression would be max.A single carb would be good or even a small set of duals.

My heads were done by Ashcraft Speed & Marine.

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I think I can, I think I can....

where are they located and what did they do as far as head work?

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If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy -Red Green

If you decide to use 88mm. pistons you are making a HUGE mistake here.

Get the 87mm. instead. Major difference in reliability.

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Buy the best and cry once.

I guess I should have said the Dark ages it was almost 20 years ago. We were stupid back then, But hey they said 94's would never last back then?

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

With $1200 to spend I would build a 1915. Block machining cost at keiths auto- align bore case $55 cut for 94s $50 full flow $25 casesaver block $45 regrind crank $75 cut heads for 94s $50 or buy a used set from thesamba ready to go for around $350 rebuilt rods $65 used weber 40 IDF $150 AA pistons and cyl $170 used cam $40. That puts you just over $1000 if you need all the machine work. Add bearing gaskets and seals heads studs you will be around $1200. I just built this motor for way less all used parts and it made 105hp with a stock carb 12:1 compression.

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Travis