I am running a very mild 1835 with stock heads. I have to find more low end tourqe and a higher top point. I am at about 4900 rpm. What can I do for help. I have to rebuild the frame for dual carbs and will if it will help that much. I have a 3 rib now but am going to a built 6 rib soon. What can I do with what I have without any milling of anything and
get mdre tourqe and pover????? I can climb anything I want now but I have a son that thinks we can go anywhere and I like that but it is hard chasing a 2332 with him. What do our engine builders have to say on the subject. Any info will help me out. Thank you

Tell your son,"But yeah, I've got an electric choke."Old Alan Jackson song. Stay like you are.Save up for his college and stay alive. Or you will always be married to an a/c motor and broke.More power/more money/more problems.Take care of your own kids, not Mr. Empi's kids.Migrating up and up and up is how they get ya.It will NEVER end!

I ya can climb any hill ya want to why change

A stock 6 rib with a 1835 equals you climb nothing and never get to use 3rd or 4th gear of the trail. A five rib would suit you best. I am a water cooled guy so I am biased but it is hard to argue with an echotech or a Suby motor. Plenty of torque and HP at a lower cost than a total rebuild with $800 of heads $200 for cam, $200, for bearings, $600 to $800 for dual carbs and the cost of the frame rebuild to boot. An Echotech with computer and harness can be had for around the cost of a set of good AC heads maybe $500 to $600. You will need an adaptor $550 from Kennedy with flywheel, a radiator with fans for around $350 some assorted plumbing and frame modifications and you have a great running reliable rig that will pull that stock six rib in any gear. Oh and you can hold a conversation with the passenger driving down the trail.

Just a suggestion, I know to some purist this is blasphemy but there I said my piece. Best of luck with you project.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Need more information about your engine to give you any good advice.

ive got an 1835 built by aaron creech...runs like a demon! ask anyone around thats rode with it....you would swear its bigger...and running a 3 rib, goes anywhere you point it. it does have cb performance straight cut adjustable cam gaers,ratio rockers,german 009 with petronix,lightened flywheel,and 044 heads and all good internals....what carb and ignition setup r u running,you might find some power there big weber and msd....some porting on the heads(which id still like to have done this winter on mine)

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Hey,can you hand me those zip ties and that roll of duct tape?!

Many years ago I had an 1835 with dual forty Dells, it ran great. I had a Scat C95 cam with 041 heads. Like Chevy the things screamed. I turned a rod bearing and screwed the crank. Bought at reconditioned set of stock VW rods and a Scat 76mm counterweighted crank. Instant 1976 Stroker. It was Awesome and I ran it for years until I built the 2276 that I have been running for years 14 in a rail and 2 more in my 66 bug.

I know I through out the WC info but if the budget allows nothing sounds or runs quite like an AC. Still love to hear them rev out.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

O let's try to get some info in while I'm dinking For you wc guys I like the ideal however this is th car my dad and uncle built in the same year I was born so for now it is going to say a/c for now maybe aftre I see and drive a few when I see what the big diff could be we will all get together and make me a hill killer but for now I want to stay a/c till I get more info and parts. THANKS FOT THE INPUT. And just know I might really need info on soon. As for I what im workin with. I have an 1835 stock everything but pistons. I do not want to go huge because I only have a 94 inch wheel base. I just need to gat more low end and a bit on top. My set setup is 1835nit is 92x69 stock all but oil pump and cooler. I have a webber 44 carb. I have no idea about cams or anything else. I have a 009 eletronic ing. Most all else is stock. The point is that slade (my 4 year old don't care what we climb as lond as we don't back down). As another point I do not take him with me on all rides and I play harder then. Give me specfic question that will help me with the info ou need to know for some help. Thanks guys

i was reading an old hot vw today and there was an article on rebuilding a stock 1600..im not gunna go in depth but parts and machine work was a lil over 1200 dollars..rebuilt stock heads, pistons and jugs, cam, ect.. thats just a ball park figure. point is, to make a noticable difference in over all performance, a tear down in necessary an 1835 makes plenty of power when built rite, we've all seen it..and you dont have to refinance your house, or stuff a radiator in it to do it

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Radiator, oil cooler whats the difference both are heat exchangers . One word separates WC from AC, Longevity! Oh and did I mention horse power and torque for low $$$$$ just head down to Passat's and he will lead you to the nearest pull a part.

Sorry for hijacking your thread man.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Nothing .even with a cam swap I'd have my block checked and if I've got it that far I'd go ahead and cut for 94's.as far as building up your motor with running stock heads it will only give you so much and without doing an upgrade on them your really limited on what you can produce for torque and power.they are a lot of options for you but just changing carbs ain't an option.you will need to change from the stock cam and crank if you want low and top end.and for the cost difference I'd just stroke it and be done if your building a six rib.Chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

First decide how much power you need to make then you will know how much you need to spend. There are a lot of proven combos out there. I am also an AC guy, I blown up several engines but all of them were water cooled. The $100 1600 engine in my 4 seater has been beaten severely for 9 years and it still starts and runs whenever I hit the key.
Good Luck
Kenric

If your not going to split the block to make any changes there isn't much you can do to gain more power. The 44mm carb is hurting your low end torque and the stock cam and heads are hurting the top end. If you want more its gotta come apart.