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 Post subject: Not having good luck...
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 2:28 pm
Posts: 101
Location: cincinnati ohio
well, i got my buggy runnin finally, i was puttin around in my back field, went back up to my barn, let it idle and jumped out. as soon as i jumped out, it died. to get it back started, i have to have the throttle wide open, and when it starts it will only rev to maybe 2000 rpm;s with the throttle at wide open. this one is makin me think. its not smoking or nothing.. i been tinkerin with it every chance i can , nothin i do seems to help..


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:39 pm 
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Location: Birmingham Alabama
Just a guess in the dark. Are the weights and springs in your distributor rusty and crusty?That little tiny piece of cloth on top of the shaft should be oiled . It's like a wick.The rotor button should snap back freely.If you took the dist apart you will see it is a shaft riding on a shaft. They could be crusted together throwing off your timing.Oil all joints and springs litely and free it up.


Last edited by passat2800 on Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:43 pm 
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Location: tuscaloosa alabama
I would check the throttle cabe for slippage, if thats not it i would check the timing and make sure the distribter is tight and didnt slip. then i would check the valves. if all that is fine i would check the oil for metal, maybe a bearing going out.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:47 pm 
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Good one Kevin. I had a motor once that was so badly line bored that it was hard to turn over and would not idle or rev.Had another with the end play below 2.5 thousands that was the same way.Hi Kevin. Riding fri or sun?With the plugs out is it hard to turn over by hand?The line bore job was so bad the flywheel ate into the bellhousing.DO NOT LET JIM CONNELLI do your line bores!His tool was wo' out.Or just a dirty fuel filter or frozen water inside of it.


Last edited by passat2800 on Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:54 pm 
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Location: cincinnati ohio
i have a 009 distributor. i just adjusted the valves , and the throttle cable is not slipping. do you think it could be a bad distributor?> its kinda weird, it was running fine, then boom it runs like shit.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:02 am 
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This Carl. Ain't gotno gas init. mmm. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:06 am 
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Location: Birmingham Alabama
Coils play different games on their way out. One is running bad when warmed up.Google Coil Testing Air Cooled VW


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:09 am 
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Location: cincinnati ohio
will do. thanks again


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:09 am 
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R you sure that the lobes on the cam are fine. Whats the oil pressure?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 2:04 am 
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sounds like a fuel problem to me, maybe a bad pump or clogged line, filter, or carb maybe :|

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:18 am 
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Location: Boone County West (BY GOD) Virginia
It sounds like you need a vw 101 crash course from someone local.coils can go bad and do this as dd said.are you running points or electronic?it sounds to me your outta time or have adjusted the valves wrong and not running on all cylinders.start from beginning .air fuel and good spark from all plugs.with the #1 plug out,roll the engine over with your finger over plug hole.when you fell the compression pushing your finger off then set the mark on front pulley to align with the center of the case tdc.make sure piston is tdc,then adjust the valves on #1.then turn crank ccw half a turn to put timing mark on pulley at bdc.adjust#2 cylinder valves.half turn Ccw back to tdc on pulley,do #3 ,then Ccw to bdc,do #4.now roll over Ccw one more half turn until mark is tdc.put the rotor button on.turn distributor until the rotor button is pointing directly under a plug on cap.put the #1 cylinder plug wire there and wire it 1-4-3-2 clockwise.set your points if that's what you got and crank it.you should be able to fire it up here if your getting gas and air and fire.when it starts check each header.if all are not running hot and it's not popping or back firing it's more than likely ignition,plugs or coil.if it pops or back fires then maybe you have an intake leak and getting air somewhere.but maybe this will help.good luck.Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:52 pm 
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Location: cincinnati ohio
im running electtric, i havent had time to test the coil due to the holidays, but as soon as i have time il be out lookin. thanks andi hope i can come back with a little bit more info to work with


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:10 pm 
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Location: cincinnati ohio
well since drews is closed i went to autozone to get a coil. got that on and timed it again, started right up. im afraid to touch that distibutor now aha.thanks for all your help. you all need to write a book


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:40 am 
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Location: Ladysmith B.C. Canada
So the coil solved it. Your other post mentioned single Webber 40. Your problem was posted in Dec.
Do you still have the heat risers on the intake manifold? If not, after a while your fuel mix will be icing.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:27 am 
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hauser2169 wrote:
well since drews is closed i went to autozone to get a coil. got that on and timed it again, started right up. im afraid to touch that distibutor now aha.thanks for all your help. you all need to write a book

Someone already did: http://books.google.com/books?id=0uPXAA ... CFgQ6AEwBQ
This manual is actually entertaining. Pretty old school thinking, no hot rod stuff and there are a few inaccuracies but the author includes lots of "shadetree" roadside repairs that can come in handy in the woods, too. Very good at explaining some of the principals of veedub motors and diagnosing problems in laymans terms.


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