Ok i have a 1915 that i pulled apart due to bad bearings. My thoughts where what can i do to give me more power while i have it apart. What is going to give me the biggest hp gain for the money. I want to put my 6 rib in and not have it be a dog till i save up the money to get new gears.

The 1915 i have now has a has a stock crank, stock rods, 94mm jugs and pistons, stock rockers, VZ-15 cam stock heads with bigger valves not sure what size, MSD-6AL.

First thing you need to decide is how much money your willing to spend.With the motor you have now,it wont pull a good hill without running out of power.Instead of putting gears in it,either run a 3-rib or build a stroker.

Get rid of the cam and buy a engal 110 cam with 1.25 rockers and have a little bit of head work done it will help alot.Best combo for a 1915 is a 5 rib with a super diff.

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"It is easy to be brave from a safe distance."

I built a 1915 a while back for my girlfreinds buggy. I took the block and had it decked to help bump the compresion up. I had a vz15 in it and the thing was bad. I loned it to a buddy of mine that normally ran a 2332 and he couldnt beleive the power that thing made. So my bit of advice is give it some compresion you wont be dissapointed.

Get a new set of cut to length chrome moly push rods and read up on valve train geometry in that ole 40 year old HOW TO HOT ROD A VW book.You will thank the dead man that wrote it.Better breathing, rpm and smoothness.The difference between cam grinds is only in thousandths and degrees, but the wrong travel on your rocker arms due to your push rods being too long or to short can throw off these cam's lifts and durations.Basicly when your valve is half way down, the rocker arm foot should be dead center of your valve stem.But slightly over to the side to keep your valve rotating to keep valve seats from staying in one place so they keep a better seal .Do the washer math beside your rockers to get your feet slightly to the side.Write me if you have questions.I've NEVER had a motor go bad or shut off because of something I did.Never blew up a motor or lose flywheel.And I've never known anybody to have traveled more vw miles than I have.Yeah I'm braggin, so what. I'm just trying to get yall to believe me when I tell ya something.Some will try the new push rods and not be impressed with the difference. That will be because their geometry was close to begin with.But someone stroking their motors or changing comp. ratio had better do it right!

The VZ15 will pull a little better in mid to upper rpm, but its had to beat the grunt of the 110 and it will still pull very well in upper midrange with some ratio rockers.
VZ15s sound Killer with a single carb, tho. Lopes so hard it will make harley riders jealous if you get on blacktop in the buggy.

Just to add to "Passat 2800" coment about rocker geometry. You're looking for adjusting screw to be in alianment with the valve stem at 50% lift. That gives equal rock in each direction, from seated to full lift. It puts less stress on the valve stem and provides maximum lift. So you need a degree pully and acurate cam specs.

best thing to do is to buty my 90 mm crank for 750 bucks and having you a ground stoping 2500 and be done with it comes with rods and flywheel

Why are you selling the crank.?

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-Dakotah/koko
keep on keepin' on!!

building a water cooled chain drive with a aluminum chevy turbo

IRONHORSE..... I left you a message, told you i was interested if the gentleman you said was coming over to pick it up didnt take it. I WILL PURCHASE THE PARTS IF THEY ARE STILL FOR SALE....

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"Do or Do Not, THERE IS NO TRY!" Yoda.

I just built a 1915 and it pulls the 6rib with no problem. All Scat parts, with 041 heads weber progressive "junk" I love the setup. But I do have a stroker motor in the works...Just for fun haha

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"IT IS WHAT IT IS"

Will either the 110 or VZ 15 are great off road cams the VZ 15 cam is going to pull harder off road than the 110, the VZ 14 is going to pull harder than the W 110 or VZ 15 but not pull as many rpms. Along with rocker arm geometry, heads are the key. A good set of heads is key. Steve Tims at performance-workshop.com will custom build a set for you and if you tell him what cam, carb(s), displacement he will set the valve spring pressure for your cam, port your intakes and set chamber volume often for less money than a set of off the shelf heads. Give him a call and tell him what you have. A 90 mm crank is really going to wake up you engine and require different heads and dual carbs. With the 90 mm crank it is best to use H beam rods with 5/16 rod bolts. Carefull attention will be require to insure you don't cut through the case top when clearancing. The new raised cases make life easier. I attach two pistons and liners to a case half with the cam installed and turn the crank by hand to make sure there is enough clearance between rotating parts. Also make sure the piston skirts don't hit at BDC.

as long as you use the 5.7 rods or longer no problems with the piston hitting

Did you get the crank and rods?