is it worth it? cost?

as far as i know it is, motor isnt finished yet. they were 150 for the entire rocker assemblies. she sells just the rocker arms too for like 25 or 35 bucks.

do i need the rocker arms for ratio rockers?

[quote='J.DiNapoli'][quote='dave t']Here is a pic of a broken wavey washer from my 1915. Found it b-4 it went into oil pan.[img][img]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o157/silversandoffroad/IMG00024.jpg[/img] This pic shows a little of what the rockers and shafts look like. Thanks Dave T [img]http://i119.photobucket.com/a

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RAJAY + SAND = FUN!!! Can we put a turbo on that??*** Hey look in here for more junk.*** http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o157 ... ndoffroad/

thanks guys i am considering it cuz i could switch them over to my 1915 when im done building it. might even throw a 74 mm crank in and make it a beastly 2180

the rocker arms are what change the ratio.

im not good w/ motors. explain?

i may not be the best to explain the whole deal but i know that the arms change the ratio. 1.25:1 will be good for your motor now, and will do good when you later upgrade your motor. hopefully someone else can chime in and give you a better explanation. the pushrod hits the arm and the arm pushes the spring which opens the valve.

Sounded good to me

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RAJAY + SAND = FUN!!! Can we put a turbo on that??*** Hey look in here for more junk.*** http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o157 ... ndoffroad/

In a nutshell the rocker arms multiply the cam lift.
To make it easy if your cam lift is 1.000" then a stock rocker will push the valve in 1.100" since they are a 1:1-1 ratio.
The same cam and 1:25 rockers will push the valve in 1.250"
The 1:4 will push the valve in 1.400"

There are a few advantages of ratio rockers.
No clips and spring washers to break, they bolt together with shims and spacers.
Lifters and push rods have less travel to get same lift at the valve over a stock rocker assembly.
Most good aftermarket ratio rockers have the adjuster on the push rod end of the rocker arm rather than at the valve.
Those have a "foot" that runs across the top of the valve/lash cap.
This prevents the adjuster screws from beating on the valve tips since they are now cups and on the push rods.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

so what your telling is more lift with out changing the cam?

[quote='frankenbuggy06']so what your telling is more lift with out changing the cam?[/quote]

That is correct.

hey thanks guys. i got the new rocker arm in and the valves adjusted. ran it around the yard today and got stuck in the back of the lake. Wasnt paying enough attetion to the buggy, was payin attetion to the woman. lol

i don't mean to steal your thread but i am having some ticking problems of my own. I checked out all the clips and spring washers and they seem to be in working order. I just got these heads and put them on my 1835. they are stock heads and the left side is ticking pretty loud. all the valves are within spec. there are some caps over the top of the valves and washers underneath where the rocker arm shaft bolts to the head. that doesn't seem right to me but i have next to no experience with these motors. any info would be appreciated.

i fixed it and it is still ticking and smoking. i am really getting frustrated. any ideas anyone?
anybody live close to me like to stop by and try to help?

I live in Fayetteville,Oh, whereabouts is Medina?

i dont think you'd wanna make the trip unless ur up here. I am about 3 1/2 hours from you. its by lodi, wadsworth, and wooster.

If the motor is old and has'nt been rebuilt,it might be you lifters or a lifter collapsing or already has collapsed.Your cam pushes the lifter into the pushrod and then into the rocker arm then into the valve.If a lfter has collapsed,that means the push rod is just tapping against the lifter,in return making a ticking sound.To fix it,you might as well buy you a rebuild kit and rebuild it or bore it out to a 1915 for about $500 or ????

Now also dont hold me to that,just my opinion since you have checked the other things.Dont go tearing your motor down on my behalf,find someone or a buggy shop that could give you a definite awnser.Checkout Samba.com,there is usaully a few motors on there for sale pretty cheap too.

that may be it. I want a big motor but i have absoluetly no cash. g/f cost some money man. lol

I had a problem with an engine ticking, and it was a worn out lifterbore like Buckmaster mentioned. To check you could take off the rockers, pull out the pushrods, remove the pushrod tubes, and stick a finger in the opening in the case were the lifters are. The lifter should only move in, and out. If it has any up, and down movement, the lifterbore in the case is wearing out. If this is what it is, it's only going to get worse. If you can catch it early enough, you may be able to get the lifterbores sleeved to fix them. If you let it go too long, the lifterbore will break. Then the lifter has a chance to come out of the bore and roll around in the engine, only to come in contact with who knows what else. Once this happens, it definately junks the case, and usually much more.