anybody like the w125 cam with 1.25 rockers??...currently im a 1915 with 110 cam..im wantin more out of it without going stroker...thinking bout sending my 043 heads to steve tims california for some porting and w 125 cam with 1.25 rockers..guess i could just ask him if i go that route..what bout stock rods? could they handle 6500 rpm?? whats the rpm range of w125 cam??

i personally like the 110 because of the low end torque,but i guess it really depends on what you are wanting your buggy or motor to do.if you have money to spend and you want more i would recomend STROKER!!! but thats jmo
as others chim in im sure you will get many dif opinions

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lets just ride

I believe the 125 will take away from your bottom end.I say leave the 110 and go up to 1.4's and get the heads worked up or like Bmoore said spend the extra money a stroker crank.Depending on what size stoker and what kind of deal you get on a crank,it should'nt cost more than $500 to $700,unless you want other goodies too.

i was wanting to get more hrs outta my 1915 bottom end before changing complete bottom end..if i didnt have change my pistons i would get a stroker crank...with head porting i should be able get lil more out of her..then if i ever go stroker ill have some decent heads already...i think my compression is set bout 8.1 what if i bumped it to 10.1??

LIKE THEY SAID leave the 110 1.25 scat rocker the good ones $270. THEY are 1.3 about .509 lift .Port the heads go 10.5 copr.For head porting call DREWS at 1-888-go-drews or southern buggyes or davis or shadetree

if your changing out the cam you are really just changing your power band correct.i may be wrong been knowing to be from time to time,i mean you may gain some power but if you move up to the 125 you are just going to have more top end and hardley any bottom.be hard to just lug around and trail ride with that cam i think.and if you bump the compression up you better rebuild the bottem end and put rod bearings and new rings in it imo.chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

thanks for ur thoughts i better just stick with the 110..the pistons have about 100 hrs on em and the crank just got turned.. since my case is split apart is why i been doing some thinking...

i would stick with the 110 and 1.25's and get the head work done maybe bump up the compression and if you dont havem put on a set od port matched intakes and dual 44 WEBERS not the wannabe empis. jmo

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Stick with the 110 cam. Steve Tims reccomends the 125 cam for a 2275 cc street or dune engine with dual 45 Webers and his Stage Two heads. With Tims heads if your 110 is looking worn the Web Cam grind 86a (1.4 rockers) is also worth trying a little less duration than the 110 but has .502 lift which should pull harder than the 110. If your ride is heavy try a Engle VZ 14 cam or Web 111 cam they pull even harder off idle than a W110 or 86a. Steve Tims also suppiles intakes ported to match your heads at a reasonable price.

can any body say got suby !!

nope,,,air cooled all the way

110 with 1.25 rockers.... works great in any size engine. had this set up in a 1641 and now in my 2276 and I love it.

Same here do not like trail riding. So stay with the AC.

x3 on the air cooled. Keep it simple. I'm not to sure if the magic smoke stays in a Sub ecm under weater. Missed your post about the rods. Stock rods are very tough the rod bolt is the weak link. Gene Berg and Rimco have race prepped stock rods available with better bolts. These days with 6 cents an hour labor from China after market rods I beam rods are 130-170. If a stroker is in the near future get a set of CB H beam rods with 3/8" ARP 2000 rod bolts. Their 225 dollar H beam rod set comes with $68 worth of ARP bolts and require a lot less clearancing. You can use the 5.4" length rod up to 82 mm stroke and 84 mm if your not going to rev the daylights out of it.

Is it a counterweighted crank? if so have it turned to a off set small journal ...Around here they call it a cheater crank ...You can get almost 71 stroke ...$99 bucks for a set of CB performance Chevy rods 2 inThats as cheap as you can get HP