Ok, I agreed to help a buddy out fixing his motor. Now I'm not sure it can be fixed (not by me anyway)
What we have is some one drilled and tapped the block on a flat spot near the crank end. This is not the actual pic but if you look you can see a small "plug" in the block right by the brass oil fittng at about 7-8 oclock around the crank hole. anyway, some one drilled it out a tapped it for a power steering mount. It wore the threads out, and I assume someone just drilled and tapped it bigger. Now the threads ar wore out agian, and there is only about 3/16 thick of meterial left on one side of the hole. I'm afraid to drilland tapped for an EZLOC, because of the wall thickness. I think if I can find a way just to seal the hole, I have made other pump supports that it wouldn't be needed, I just dont want to brake the case or it to leak oil.

If need be when I get back to the shop I will take a pic of the actual case to show you.

Any Ideas?

Drill and tap as large as it will go. Get a piece of aluminum and make the same threads on it. Screw it in as tight as you can with lock tight and be done.

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I'm kinda afraid to go bigger, I don't want to crack the case. here is a pic of the actual hole.
The thinest area is 3/16 thick...Do you think that enough?

What size is the hole now? Got a pair of dial calipers?

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5/8, I have digital calipers, but no dial calipers

Why is the threads getting stripped out? Also how can you drill a hole in the oil galley without getting shavings inside there? If the drilling and tapping can be done, make sure you use NPT thread taps or use a straight tap if using o-ring boss fittings, but will have to use a bigger bit just for the very end of the hole for the o-ring to seat in. It looks to me that someone is trying to use NPT fittings in a standard tapped hole with an insert sleeve. You may be better off to try to just plug it and don't use it and that way you don't have to worry about it stripping out again.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

They had a 5/8 in it. i assume they started with a smaller one in the beginning. It stripped out because the pump was supported by only this and one other bolt. I have that part fixed now. If I drill and tap it i'll use some greese on the drill and tap. I'll also hand drill it inted of using a drill motor.
I do plan on just plugging it.

Closest tap size is a 3/4-10 tpi which needs a 21/32 hole. That is 1/32 larger than what is there, if you feel there is enough land . Maybe a tapered aluminum plug and some JB weld might do the trick.
In metric taps, 5/8" is the drill size for a 18x2.00mm.

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if that hole is 5/8 and the wall is 3/16 you should have about a 1 inch round flat. from the looks of the hole, you have those four little slots in there. now if you drill that hole out, for a 1/2 inch NTP pipe plug, you will still have plenty of meat left because the drill tap hole size is .718 which is a 23/32 that should get you past those four little slots. and there is still plenty of material to support the plug. i would use an aluminum pipe plug. and maybe some lock tight just snug it up pretty good. make sure you use grease on the drill bit and the tap to prevent chips from falling in, you might even want to take the oil pump out too.

And do not run the plug in to far & block the oil hole . Or go ahead & make it fullflow that is where the oil goes bake in .

I made up a aluminum plug. Its just a little over sized. its just tight enough it will need to be "tapped" in. What do you guys think of using some JB weld on it then tapping it in. It will have a bracket over the top of it, so it shouldn't pop out any way.

I dont see why you cant tap it and then screw a bolt in ( with some JB weld on the threads) then cut the head off... I did this on a late model diesel beetle starter holes so I could redrill new holes in the right place. I have some aluminum threaded plugs I will see what size they are. Grease the hole up good so the cuttings dont go inside. Driving the plug in may work fine too...

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Thanks for the reply. I dont intend on reuseing the hole for a bolt. I just want to plug it so it dont come back out and leak.
The top side of the hole look to be as thick as the side, but its not. theres a lip there making it look thicker than it is. I bet theres less than 1/8 of meterial. so there deffenatly isn't enough meat to be able to tap it.

Troy, im glad dewayne headed north with that problem

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I think if you made the plug shorter than the hole like VW did use red locktite and stake/peen the edge like VW did it will be a great repair.

You mean, remove the "lip" from the plug? You don't think it would suck the plug into the block?

There is a oil pressure attempting to push the plug out as the oil returns to the oil pump. The plug should be a slight press fit. You could freeze the plug before installing it. I doubt you need the plug to be much more than .0005" to.001 " larger than the hole.

Oddpowers

How did this mess turn out?

what gives troy? we need an up date!

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Air cooled forever,i hate rusty tools!!!!!!!