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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 1:17 am 
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Location: crab orchard ky
my name is matt day i have a set of late model wheels with beadlocks but i am having trouble keeping the inside beads on. Even with as much as 10-15 lbs of air. I have asked around and been told that i could use self tapping screw to put into the bead of the tire or have someone weld a bead around the wheel giving the bead on the tire somthing to lean on. Need help quick hope to have a good crowed on the 25th!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 9:07 am 
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that or get some inner beadlocks they work great and not to expensive the go inside the tire and keep it from coming off the bead


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 11:31 am 
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What size tire and wheel do you have? Could be the tire to narrow for the wheel. You could run inner tubes.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 12:32 pm 
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hillaholic wrote:
What size tire and wheel do you have? Could be the tire to narrow for the wheel. You could run inner tubes.



I have actually had the opposite problem. I tryed a pair of 4" centerlines with 7.00 15s on the front of the Buggy last year. My wife and i were tooling down the trail and she says to me: "AH! Honey your wheel just fell off" I responded "WHAT". Sure enough the front tire was just casually rolling down the trail behind us and there we were rolling on the rim. I put it back on and put 30 psi in both of them to get thru the weekend. After that I Installed tubes and did not experience it again. I replaced the rims over the winter with 5 1/2" Billet Bead locks with inner reinforcing rings. Even with the correct rim size I have knocked the tire off the inside bead twice. So the bottom line is run tubes or double beadlocks. I will probably put tubes in mine.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 3:33 am 
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Ody is right, running tubes is the best and cheapest way to have beadlocks in a different way, a lot of the late model race car drivers use tubes to help keep tires on the rim even though they run beadlock wheels.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:36 pm 
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Just a side note on this. Running tubes in the rear tires does not work all that well unless your running above 10 psi. And of cource we all know 10 PSI is really too high in the rear. The rims tend to pinch the tubes real easy when running lower pressures. Running 15 to 20 Psi in the front is fine and is fine and actually better than lower pressure.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 3:30 pm 
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We used to glue them on the rockcrawlers with poyurethane adhesive...


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:27 pm 
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look in a jegs mag. order some rim screws grade 8 comes with drill bit. that's what i run on my chaindrive w/ tubes and have never knocked a bead off with 18.5 44-15 on 12" wheels even did the same thing with my old normal rail with 33 boggers, 35 boggers. 38 sawmpers 2332 with twin carbs and a drinking problem. never knocked one off. maybe i was lucky........jm2 cents


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:23 am 
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Location: crab orchard ky
i have 31 15.50's on 15 " wheel ive tried silicone next step is to have someone weld a bead on the inside of the wheels


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:57 am 
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ole2timer wrote:
i have 31 15.50's on 15 " wheel ive tried silicone next step is to have someone weld a bead on the inside of the wheels


Note that welding a bead on the inside will only help support the rim from bending and will not stop the tire from being knocked off the rim.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:34 pm 
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I think he is talking about the little hump on the inside of the rim. but i think if you weld a bead around there it's going to make it really hard to seat the bead after th tire is mounted. Try the rim screws from jegs,summit where ever they work.


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