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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:10 pm 
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Ok, so I bought this buggy in London Ky a few years back, noticed the rear wheel seems to rock around when jacked up, like the bearing was bad.
I took out the stub axle and found feeler guage blades inserted around the outside of the inner bearing, looks like the bearing had seized and spun on the previous owner and wallowed out the bearing housing.
The buggy has 5x5 arms so replacing the arm is not what I want to do.
Any ideas on how I can fix this short of putting a new bearing housing in the arm?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:21 pm 
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Can you get a speedi-sleeve large enough?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:35 pm 
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machine it out and put a bearing in with a larger O.D. and the same I.D. if thats possible to machine. Maybe ona mill with a boring head... you should be able to get a bearing that would work like that.. is it the tapered roller bearing or the non tapered bearing?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Thanks guys, speedy-sleeves come in sizes 0.472 to 8 in.
They also make custom sizes.
I'd never heard of them before, learn something new everyday.
That maybe a good fix.
It is the inner bearing held in by the big snap ring.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:14 pm 
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Only problem there is you need to have a clean bore to use a speedy sleeve. Clean I mean concentric, same diameter, machine finish. There isn't a bunch of material to play with there. I would suggest welding them up, but that opens up a whole new set of problems. Don't know what I would do.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:05 pm 
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Maybe cut the old one out with a close fitting hole saw. and then replace it with a new one or recycled one.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:11 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Only problem there is you need to have a clean bore to use a speedy sleeve. Clean I mean concentric, same diameter, machine finish. There isn't a bunch of material to play with there. I would suggest welding them up, but that opens up a whole new set of problems. Don't know what I would do.


Loctite it to the bearing and hope it's round enough to keep the race in true 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:17 pm 
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The simplest fix would be to do as you found it, replace the shims with thicker ones to make it a tap in fit. You could add in bearing lock along with the shims to keep things in place. it will require heat to break the compound loose when you need to replace the bearing in the future. A good machinest could fine center from the other side bearing race to machine the bad section out to use a speedy race. Idealy the housing needs replaced.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:31 pm 
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Reinstall bearing and shims spot weld the outer part of the bearing to the housing in a few places leave the snap ring out and ride that sucker the housing is ruined any way so what you got to lose . ?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:58 pm 
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Take it to a machine shop, have them flycut the old bearing housing out, slip in a new one and weld it in.
That's what I would do.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 11:02 pm 
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I'll have to check for roundness, might use a hone to true some, then the speedi-sleeve with bearing lock.
If it is to out of round, I might use more feeler blades to center and spot weld it in.
I'm a little leary about welding 1 side of the bearing,thinking it would probably break being supported on 1 side only.
I can always cut it out with the plasma and replace.
When I originally found the mess 2 yrs. ago, I used some high dollar liquid metal to fill in the void.
It worked for a while, but just not good enough.
Keep the ideas coming.
Flycut, that would work too.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:22 am 
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i had a buddy that had one that had been eat up by a bad bearing and he just took his mig and welded a few beads and then took a die grinder and smoothed it out till he could get the bearing to go back in without to much excessive force and hadnt had any trouble since

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:35 pm 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
i had a buddy that had one that had been eat up by a bad bearing and he just took his mig and welded a few beads and then took a die grinder and smoothed it out till he could get the bearing to go back in without to much excessive force and hadnt had any trouble since



thats not a bad idea...



i would stay away from any welding on the bearing, you may change the temper of the bearing with the excessive heat, warp the outer race, etc. if it was a thicker bearing i'd say go for that, but not something that thin... I like the above idea, even if you bored the weld out with a carbide tipped boring head...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:47 pm 
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Well, we reasembled it, because we going out west the 3rd of april.
When we get back, I'll cut out and replace the housing.
I'm tempted to take the suby, but more hp works best in the sand, so the v6 is going.

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