Say you want lift, so you twist up your torsion bars. Then it's too tight ,too hard of a ride. Take a high speed grinder and go around the bars in long passes.One row at a time. Try it . Too hard again? Spray paint them to know where you left off ,but then go down them again in LoNG thin passes again.(Type 3's are slightly fatter and I just click them once and you don't have to twist them as hard as Chineese arithmatic and they ride great with out grinding).Don't over do it.Buy something from Swayaway and you are stuck with it.I know, DD is an idiot, I should be shot in the face. Soft riding suspension and lite weight trailing arms absorbs the rocks and makes all the difference in competive climbing. Also shocks need to collapse fast and return slow.I spent days grinding my Bus torsions looking like Jonny Holmes to tote my HEAVY Buick 3800 softly. Oh yeah,ever had a buggy that would keep on sagging no matter what you did? The inner splinnes on the torsion tube aren't welded too solid. Had a guy throw away his frame because of that.

Its no wonder you turned your back on anything old VW. You might have spent lots of money in the past trying to make VW stuff work, but apparently you dont even know the basic no-no's about it, and no amount of money will replace mistreating parts or installing them incorrectly.
I can see now why nothing VW ever held together for you.

I wouldnt advise even letting a torsion bar clang against something while its out of the housing.

PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS unless you want your bars to break in half inside your torsion.

here we go again haha

Nope, not arguing. Nothin to argue about here. DONT do it. plain and simple.

Bad advice causes SOO many people to give up on buggies, and VWs in general. Thats how VWs got a reputation on the street as unreliable and hard to work on because so many people worked on them that didnt really know what they were doing back in the day. Apparently the same applies to VW equipped buggies today.

Now I don't know alot But back when I used vw stuff I turned my Torsion bars down careful to radius the ends ..it made all the difference in the world

We put mine on a Lathe and turned them down to get rid of some weight. I think we cut them to 1/2". Shaved off 3 pounds. Made them flex real good also.

Bruce you ain't right

Threw mine away. Went coil over instead.

I'm gald someone jumped on this. I couldn't find the right words.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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LOL! Specially made bars to have a set spring rate and to perform this spring rate over and over again. Lets take a grinder to them! WAhooooo!!!! It will be like opening up a thing of biscuits. POP along the pre-cut lines.

Or buy coil overs....

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Boyd Jordan
~< Rob Herring Pit Crew Chief >~
Memphis TN - - - http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=840280415

Air bags work well too

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

A nick in a torsion bar can create a stress fracture and your grinding on them?

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

You took the complete lack of words right out of my mouth. I have been here 3 times & just stared at it...

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Good to know I wasnt the only one that had to do a double take on this one.

I bet if I staple emery cloth to a wooden dowel rod & chucked it in my drill I could line bore my block. I also think i can open up my case for 94's using my Dremel. Im going to torch the counterweights off an old Chevy crank & weld them on my 69mm crank myself. I think I can hand grind my flywheel down to 12 LBS. as well....Who needs a machine shop???

Now if I can get my hands on some NITROMETHANE I think I can get that stock 1600 over a thousand HP on the dyno.....

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Buggynut will you line bore my block for me now that your are pro?

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Boyd Jordan
~< Rob Herring Pit Crew Chief >~
Memphis TN - - - http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=840280415

Ill start taking orders after the holidays.....

OOOOOOOOHHHHHHH MYYYYYYY GODDDDDDDDD !!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry for yelling I just had to let that out....

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I've done this, you don't even have to disassemble the block. Then I use a big hole saw on my heads.
1915 here I come

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

Does this topic belong in Trash Talk?

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

OMG!!! Thank you....I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to open up the heads. I never thought about a hole saw.

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Im just grinding this topic like a stiff torsion bar......

& to think, I was speechless yesterday morning.....

I was thinking that after I run my belt sander over my case halves to give me a perfectly flat surface I was going to seal the cases with Bubble Yum.....pre chewed of course.....Im not an idiot aafter all.

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LMAO!

Drilling holes in your wheel studs saves weight. About 10 pounds....

Buggynut can you just go ahead and cut my crank up and re-weld it so its a stroker crank?

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Boyd Jordan
~< Rob Herring Pit Crew Chief >~
Memphis TN - - - http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=840280415

You must have very BIG Studs. We only got a 1/2 lb out of all of mine.

Thats easy.....I just Sawzall the rod journals off & move em out a 1/4" or 3/8" & JB Weld em back on. This trick works up till you try to go past an inch. At that point you need to space the block halves apart with this nifty spacer I make from the recycled soles of Nike tennis shoes. Only Nike soles though.....Something in em makes them perfect for this application.

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What Who said that I deny all knowledge

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