If I put pics up of my tank mount would any body look at them?

I look at everything that is posted,,,I'm eat up with it

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I will look at them. I lke to see new and old Ideals.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

excuse the rust i plan on powder coat this winter if I aint broke or divorced

Looks good to me. It appears to be a little low in the frame and will be subjected to more road rash. Mines mounted in the same location however its a little higher up in the frame

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I thought so too, but i cant get a finger between the torsion, the gas tank ,or the cross brace! so if I did it would be fractional.

Be sure to run your lines to and from the tank up high (higher than the tank) to prevent the oil from draining back to the motor

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

It would seem to me if you do that you will end up an air pocket every time you start the motor an cavitate the oil pump. My supply line runs low to the pump. When I start it up I allow it to idel a minute or two to pump the sump out. Seems to work fine.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I will run my return to tank line through my filter then to the top of my tank. I will use AN -8 braided hose. The supplly comes out the bottom to the pump this is also in braided AN-8 line is this correct? I could use tfe braided hose but i realy dont need it or hydraulic line? the pressures on this system are not really high

A few questions here;
What size is the sump tank in capacity?
How tall is it ?
How much does it weigh, about?

Yes you can use 8-AN this is a low pressure/highvolume system just keep the tank to pump line as low as possible.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=193

that is the tank, i picked up unused off ebay for less than retail

If i go low with my intake to pump hose it would run under the cvs joint between the skid plate and push rod tubes low? if so I will run a hydraulic preesure hose just for the toughness?

That's how mine is run. I have a full skid plate that also protects the tranny. Just make sure you secure it down.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

Mine runs below the pushrods also. I am using SS braided AN hoses.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I think, which one is cheaper ? Might be cheaper to do the hyrdraulic hose there? ill check

I asked these questions because I have some concern on the weight being hung off the post mount. It's a good idea and all but seeing that there is going to be 30+ pounds hanging off one side of it I think I would add another support off the top of the post somewhere to make it a double shear. This would eliminate any chance of the post cracking off at the torsion housing from all the bouncing.


Nickels worth of free advice.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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post is 9" long capacity of 9 quarts so 2 gallons @ 7 8 lbs = 16 lbs plus a couple lbs for the tank (its its light)

Torsion housing is fairly thick (.125" Just guesing) post is .105 wall so it is stout not long enough to get much of a mechanical advantage. 4.7" of .1875" fillet weld @ 70,000 tensile weld filler?

i will look at bracing.

Coil over set up has taken out a whole bunch of roughness I have been amazed At some big azz bumps it eats up

Your link says 12 Qt =23.4 lb. The tank and it's brackets, lid, vent, 5+ lbs.
Close enough to 30 lbs.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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I know that hydraulic lines is tough as nails...BUT Pipedope ran them on his buggy and the motor starved for oil while climbing a hill and the oil light never kicked on, when finished, it was pecking very bad and he had it torn apart to see what it is and it did some minor damage to his lifters and cam, just make sure you run 5/8" or larger, he ran 1/2" and it was too small, the hydraulic fittings was restricting the oil flow even though you have pressure, but not enough volume and also it was not a dry sump system, just full flow with remote filter. I run Earl's -10AN fittings and hoses on mine and it is plentyful for my full flow, but will be soon dry sump.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SA ... 4-hose.htm

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/pr ... parent.htm

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/pr ... parent.htm

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/He ... parent.htm

This is offical suction hose It is what I should use. The pump an tank are 1/2 npt I can get 3/4 hose to 1/2 npt fittings so I could run a 3/4 return to pump line ( no starvation issues) plus i wold pick up capacity what u say?

Nice job on the tank mount, those welds look awesome!! I like it.

-Dakotah

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-Dakotah/koko
keep on keepin' on!!

I think now that i will use -10 an braided line an an fittings from speed way? This size is 1 up from what cb recomends.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1008,73 ... -Line.html

fittings

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/733_Rac ... -Hose.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/86_Race ... ptors.html

Will this work out ok?

Ok cb dont want to sell pumps? bugpack does! Now on to next issue. hoses or pulleys Hydraulic hoses in 5/8 are by far cheaper than an hoses an probably more appropriate! monies saved here will go for a sepantine belt system

thanks for the idea and pics . i was strugling a little its very clear now THANKS