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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 5:48 pm 
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Was thinking about fixing my intakes myself. I have a DC scratch start tig and I've seen videos of people welding aluminum with these using arc welding aluminum rods. I just need to fill some material to correct the centering of the holes. The videos I've seen they were using 100% argon, would there be any issues with using a 75/25 mix? Anyone ever done this and have any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:12 pm 
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Ive used the scratch style tig welding with steal and brass not aluminum and it worked alright. My opinion is if youve got an arc welder then go to the weld shop and get some aluminum stick rod and use that, ive used it and had pretty good luck with it. I just weld with the tig and ive found that youll need straight argon and the aluminum has to be really really clean. it might even help preheating it. good luck on your litte venture, let us know how it works out


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:19 pm 
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I do not have an arc welder. So your saying I NEED 100% argon?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:36 pm 
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I've always been told that you need 100% argon. Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:49 pm 
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I tig alot of alum you have to use a ac tig on alum and 100% argon with ac and dc . dc is for steel and stainless


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:04 pm 
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I tried to practice on an old pulley I had and I can't even strike an arc with this thing. I scratch it and it starts but as soon as I pull it away the arc stops. What am I doing wrong?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:27 pm 
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"What am I doing wrong" Trying to weld aluminum with the wrong welder! :wink: :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:38 pm 
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I even tried it on a peace of steel and it still won't strike an arc. All jokes aside what am I doing wrong?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:46 pm 
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Hopefully halfcab, Dan can chime in on this. He is my go-to guy on all things welding. Since I'm not a welder I can't answer.
Perhaps, in detail, describe the equipment your using, might be able to see a problem that way.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:56 pm 
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I'm using a snap on mm250sl mig/tig welder with the scratch start tight torch made for it. You just unplug the wire feed box and plug in the tig torch. I've tried reversing the polarity, and all settings but can't achieve an arc. Welder works great as a mig so I'm sure nothings wrong with it. This is definately operator error

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:20 pm 
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And before there's any more jokes NO the problem is not the beer sitting next to the torch:grin:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:33 pm 
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thats a nice welder . but it will not weld aluminum its for welding ferrous metal only. I highly doubt that you can scratch start aluminim because you gotta use pure tungston electrode and when you sharpen it your supposed to clean all the metal off the grinding wheel so when you put the point on the end of the tungston you dont contaminate the tungston rod. In the process of scratch starting the arc your touching the tungston to the aluminum and it will contaminate the tungston, thats why when you weld aluminum you have the high frequency start on your tig so when you push down the petal itll start the arc so you dont have to touch the tungston to the aluminum and contaminate it. even when your welding your bead, if you acidentaly touch the aluminum with the tungston that point will turn into a ball so you have to stop and pull the tungston out and resharpen it. actually it is a pain in the ass welding aluminum for a beginer.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 10:06 pm 
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You are cooerct you can weld Alum with DC , its mostly recommended for heavy mat tho.
I would suggest that you seek out a good ac mach for your job at hand .
Welds in alum done in DC are typically dirty due to there is no cleaning action in DC like there is in ac high freq.
High freq creates the cleaning needed for alum . This is why when you switch to ac u also switch to contious HF ..
As far as gas 75/25:
I only use a helium /ar mix for heavy mat otherwise its straight argon ..
D/c. Welding in alum is not a common practice but can be done .
But with what your trying to do I would suggest an Ac Mach
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 10:07 pm 
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You are cooerct you can weld Alum with DC , its mostly recommended for heavy mat tho.
I would suggest that you seek out a good ac mach for your job at hand .
Welds in alum done in DC are typically dirty due to there is no cleaning action in DC like there is in ac high freq.
High freq creates the cleaning needed for alum . This is why when you switch to ac u also switch to contious HF ..
As far as gas 75/25:
I only use a helium /ar mix for heavy mat otherwise its straight argon ..
D/c. Welding in alum is not a common practice but can be done .
But with what your trying to do I would suggest an Ac Mach
Dan.s


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 10:27 pm 
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Thanks guys I really appreciate all the help. So I'm guessing I contaminated the tungsten when I tried it on the aluminum and that's why it won't achieve an arc? Can I just cur it off and regrind it or is the whole stick of tungsten junk now?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 10:59 pm 
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Your Tungsten is fine you can just regrind the contaminated end. Most often when a scratch arc machine tungsten becomes contaminated it won't hold an arc.As the old saying goes it needs a clean start ....


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 11:05 pm 
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Again I appreciate the help. I think I'm gonna cut my losses and buy some new manifolds.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 11:46 pm 
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Yes ac is for alum. And 100% argon. And as far as toungston use 2%. The red. And when u sharpen it . Sharpen it long ways .


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 3:20 pm 
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OK I scratched the tig welding idea. Thought about buying new manifolds but all I can find is EMPI for my application. I've sworn to myself I'll never buy another EMPI product EVER. so I searched craigslist for an arc welder and found this old tombstone. Hopefully this thing works and I can figure out how to weld aluminum with it. Any tips or tricks on how to use this dinosaur?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 4:40 pm 
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Looks like a AC welder if your going to stick weld aluminum it works best DC. But I still can see holes blown in your intakes. I wouldn't loose any sleep over the ports not matching up as long as the gasket will seal it. You may be looking at 1-4hp difference if it was a perfect world and the ports matched.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:17 pm 
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Yes it is an AC arc welder. I tried it and it sucks as well. Looks like I wasted my money. Oh well.

I wouldn't be concerned about it if it was a small difference in ports but its not. My air/fuel mix will come through the intake and hit a ΒΌ" ledge. I'm sure that's going to be a serious loss in HP and drivability. When it comes to engines I'm a bit picky and this issue REALLY bothers me.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:07 pm 
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I've come to find that all EMPI kadron manifolds are this way. Every pic I've looked at on the internet they are the same. I even got excited when I found some on craigslist but he sent me a pic and there the same way. My only options are having someone weld these up for me which will cost me labor or gas (my truck gets poor gas mileage) or buying a set of truhauf manifolds for 100 bucks plus shipping from kaddieshack. I've exhausted my skill level for repairing these myself. I even thought about using jb weld to fill them in but that thought passed quick as I quivered at the thought of it breaking loose and going through my engine.

So with all being said I think I'm just gonna deal with it until I can afford some webbers

Screw you EMPI ruining my day:evil:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:55 pm 
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I will weld your manifolds for you . Just send them to me and let me know what you need . I've had some great ppl on here help me out it will be nice to return the favor .
Dan.s


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