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 Post subject: Dry Sump Tank Questions.
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:41 pm 
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Location: Wellsville, Ohio
Gonna make my own dry sump tank since I cant seem to find one the will work anywhere in my buggy, It will be made of steel, What size fittings/bungs should I use ? along with what size lines should I run? Ill be running cb dry sump pump.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:23 pm 
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run aleast half inch inside diameter lines


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:26 pm 
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Can't begin to tell you how bad an idea that is. Have you ever fabricated an oil tank before? Just trying to save you some anger management sessions.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:52 pm 
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Location: rittman,ohio ----------- wellsville, water cooled chapter
I was thinking the same thing as mike !
What if you did a complete cardboard template and send it to someone .
Southern buggys has made them ..... Ask jeffy

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:16 am 
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doesnt it have some kind of baffle inside also?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:23 am 
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I still make the drysump tanks....There $100.00 dollars with out fittings or $150.00 with fittings,cap, and micron screen filter. But if your interested in making your own you will need (2) 3/4"NPT weld in bungs for the top, one for vent and the other for return. I highly recommend using a internal filter, for that you will need a (1)1 1/2"NPT weld in bung. Locate the 1 1/2" as close to the bottom as possible. NOTE: Do not put your return and vent bungs straight across from each other or the return will send your oil out of the vent tube while cycling. Weld a 1 1/2" tubing about 2" long in the top for a filler neck.3/4"NPT x 1/2" barb fittings and 1/2" line. And yes it has a baffle in it, its just a piece of sheet metal with holes drilled all over it located 3/4 of the way up from the bottom.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:39 am 
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do you have any idea on the shape its going to be? just need to make it so it does not run out of oil at pick up. i think if you listen to what Roger said you will be fine. just make sure your welds are all good so you don't have any leaks.and why couldnt you use something like this to cover that :mrgreen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MotorCycle-Fuel ... c6&vxp=mtr sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I don't think its Rocket science!!! :twisted: :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:20 am 
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Location: Kettering Ohio
I welded my last oil pan to make a rear sump a front sump. All I can say is TIG welding makes the job much less frustrating. I MIG welded a couple spots and those spots all leaked. I ground everything smooth and TIG welded all seems. Still had to fix a couple tiny spots but it worked with the TIG. I say go for it but be prepared to weld up some leaks. Oil seems to get warm and find any tiny little pin hole and makes a mess. When I had my harley gas tanks painted they used that coating on the inside since they were new. It wasn't cheap but it did make a nice coating on the inside.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:01 am 
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1. a taller , rather than wider tank will solve any issues with oil getting away from the pick up
2. Yes it needs a baffle,
3. If you can build the tank exactly as I need it for $150 with fittings ready to go I'll think about it
4. If I can weld something up air tight , I would assume I can make something from leaking fluid?
I know this isn't a simple task , But for me to fit a tank into the usable space I have ,a custom tank is about all that's gonna work.

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