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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:27 pm 
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How much of a difference in turning?Will it break ring n pinions, joints or trans? Would the cut brakes be obsolete? Help or hurt traction?I'm thinking about welding the diff in the Passat and grooving the tires.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:55 pm 
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You know what's gonna happen. It ain't gonna turn for shit, but I bet it would hook up on a straight hill

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:05 pm 
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It will break axles.
If you bounce off the ground while climbing and one wheel makes contact first the centrifugal force of the other spinning wheel breaks the axle.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:25 am 
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would 930's make a difference?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:46 am 
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Don't know, we were breaking bus axles, with welded diffs.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:16 am 
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I agree with maddog and it sounds likes he has experience doing so. Just wanted to clarify that it's more of the wheels momentum than the centrifugal force, which is actually the force that would be pointing out away from the wheel. A couple of examples is the water in a bucket trick where u swing it around and the water doesn't come out and the other is the famous graviton ride that sticks you to the wall. But I think everyone knew what you meant.


From your experience maddog was it the joints or the actual axle shaft?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:57 pm 
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Yep momentum, I had a brain fart.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 11:49 pm 
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I have always heard that. So why does it not do the same thing on an open diff when one tire is spinning then catches? Like air born with both tires spinning then one grips first?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 2:32 pm 
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A comprimisse would be to buy an ARB air locker or and Eaton e-locker to be locked only when needed. Mad Dog is right about welding. We welded the front diff in one of my toyota hunting truck front ends a a trail fix when the spiders broke. Long story short it wouldn't turn in 4wd at all. 930 CV joints are a great upgrade if you find that you are breaking type 2 joints. The most important lesson I ever learned from my late friend Dave Clark of Sundance bug and Buggy- Never run a new cv joint on a buggy with out clearenceing the joint with a dremel tool. Disassemble the new joint and remove all of the factory blueing from the outer housing ball slots, do the same to the inner star, and then de-bur the cage (remove all sharp edges and minutely easy the sharp corner where the radius meets the flat area. You can also pack the bearing with inexpensive grease and valve lapping compound drive up and down the street a few times and disassemble clean re-lube and re-install.

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