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| front arms http://www.woodsbuggy.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=12125 |
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| Author: | ehale [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | front arms |
extended front ball joint arms 1" wider 2" longer, I'm not done with them I'm going to box them in http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk26 ... G_0237.jpg
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| Author: | DVS1 [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
ehale wrote: extended front ball joint arms 1" wider 2" longer, I'm not done with them I'm going to box them in Nice job! Thats exactly the way I've been thinking of doing mine. |
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| Author: | davehix [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
the only thing i was wondering is if the balljoint has enough travel to work properly. because the longer arm means more travel wouldnt it? idk maybe im wrong. lol wouldnt be the first time. |
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| Author: | PhillipM [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
Longer arm = more travel for the same angles... |
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| Author: | woogiebugger1 [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
Use clearenced ball joints since there are none in there now ??? Even more travel... |
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| Author: | ehale [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
woogiebugger1 wrote: Use clearenced ball joints since there are none in there now ??? Even more travel... That's what I'm going to use there not but a couple bucks more |
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| Author: | RDB#3 [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 9:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
KING PIN......I've got a ball joint for sale if anybody needs one.....Still a nice looking fab job |
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| Author: | giveitagallon [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
i was able to get six degree more by prepping the ball joint and could have went more but want to put then back on my buds front end and ck everything first . i found a set of balljoints that are much higher angle that i am going to try a full long travel balljoint front end . |
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| Author: | buggiejunky [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
the more they travel the quicker they will fly apart maybe someone should try to use a larger ball joint Just an idea |
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| Author: | BigScott [ Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
RDB#3 wrote: KING PIN......I've got a ball joint for sale if anybody needs one.....Still a nice looking fab job How much are you asking for the ball joint front end? |
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| Author: | RDB#3 [ Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
BigScott wrote: RDB#3 wrote: KING PIN......I've got a ball joint for sale if anybody needs one.....Still a nice looking fab job How much are you asking for the ball joint front end? $75.00 right of the front of my buggy. Im keeping the box,ties,rotors,calipers. |
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| Author: | ehale [ Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
There done
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| Author: | Dee Ell [ Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
Those look strong,but what keeps machied piece in the beam from bending or breaking? |
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| Author: | Firebug [ Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
Dee Ell wrote: Those look strong,but what keeps machied piece in the beam from bending or breaking? good question,,,the longer the arms the more stress on the other end. I had my bottom arms bending so I built a new set and inserted a thick walled tube in with a inner dimension just big enough for a threaded thru-rod,,,now the upper arms are the weak link and are bending some.I will eventually rebuild those as well and go with exterior spring of some sort. |
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| Author: | Dee Ell [ Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
Without going to thru rods there really is no good way to make a arm strong. You can weld all the stuff you want on the outside,but the part in the beam will break or bend. |
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| Author: | PhillipM [ Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: front arms |
^^ What he said, getting rid of the stress from the torsion leaves helps a fair bit too, it's amazing how much lighter you can make a front arm with coilovers up front. Tube on our new arms that goes into the beam is only a tenth of an inch wall thickness, apart from the insert that the through-rods bolt up to/thrust bearings run on, which is solid bar a 12mm hole for the rod, and extends an inch into the beam just to take the crush load away on the inner arm weld. edit: You can just see what I mean on this if your eyesight is good!
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