extended front ball joint arms 1" wider 2" longer, I'm not done with them I'm going to box them in

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk26 ... G_0237.jpg

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Nice job! Thats exactly the way I've been thinking of doing mine.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

the only thing i was wondering is if the balljoint has enough travel to work properly. because the longer arm means more travel wouldnt it? idk maybe im wrong. lol wouldnt be the first time.

Longer arm = more travel for the same angles...

Use clearenced ball joints since there are none in there now ??? Even more travel...

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Don't sweat the petty stuff, pet the sweaty stuff.

That's what I'm going to use there not but a couple bucks more

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KING PIN......I've got a ball joint for sale if anybody needs one.....Still a nice looking fab job

i was able to get six degree more by prepping the ball joint and could have went more but want to put then back on my buds front end and ck everything first . i found a set of balljoints that are much higher angle that i am going to try a full long travel balljoint front end .

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

the more they travel the quicker they will fly apart maybe someone should try to use a larger ball joint Just an idea

How much are you asking for the ball joint front end?

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When in doubt, Hit the Gas!!!!!!!

My build, http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =23&t=9147

$75.00 right of the front of my buggy. Im keeping the box,ties,rotors,calipers.

There done

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Those look strong,but what keeps machied piece in the beam from bending or breaking?

good question,,,the longer the arms the more stress on the other end. I had my bottom arms bending so I built a new set and inserted a thick walled tube in with a inner dimension just big enough for a threaded thru-rod,,,now the upper arms are the weak link and are bending some.I will eventually rebuild those as well and go with exterior spring of some sort.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Without going to thru rods there really is no good way to make a arm strong. You can weld all the stuff you want on the outside,but the part in the beam will break or bend.

^^ What he said, getting rid of the stress from the torsion leaves helps a fair bit too, it's amazing how much lighter you can make a front arm with coilovers up front.

Tube on our new arms that goes into the beam is only a tenth of an inch wall thickness, apart from the insert that the through-rods bolt up to/thrust bearings run on, which is solid bar a 12mm hole for the rod, and extends an inch into the beam just to take the crush load away on the inner arm weld.

edit: You can just see what I mean on this if your eyesight is good!