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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 4:43 pm 
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Location: Dewitt, Michigan
jeep534 wrote:
Twotrackerbryan wrote:
jeep534 wrote:
First off wonderful build. I am chrious about your front beam/suspension
Thank You
archie


Thank you, what exactly would you like to know about the front end?

Did you make the front beam and how did you do it ( materials ) and how are the arms held in place. I have metalworking machines
Thank You
archie

Chromoly 4130 and a pipe bender. The arms are held in place by a through rod. The following links may help.
http://www.mooreparts.com/1083-AC401003/
http://www.mooreparts.com/1166-AC413108/
http://www.mooreparts.com/4605-AC401032%2A/
http://www.mooreparts.com/1198-AC415200D/

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:28 pm 
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did make or buy the front beam

archie


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:26 pm 
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Made the front beam out of 4130 Chromoly

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:07 am 
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I made the cover, thanks WoodsBuggy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:28 am 
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We keep gettin richer but we can't get our picher on the cover of the rollin stones, rollin stones. Gonna send 5 copies to my motha.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:54 pm 
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Just read the article. Nice spread man. Nice bit of family history too.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:04 am 
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lngtrvl2332 wrote:
Just read the article. Nice spread man. Nice bit of family history too.


Thanks, if anyone is coming to the buggy show in Lansing on Sunday, look for me and the buggy at the Sand Sports booth.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:40 pm 
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Location: Dewitt, Michigan
Current assessment:
A 2300lb buggy, 33" Mickey Thompsons, supercharged Ecotec, six rib side shift with some Weddle stuff and a heavy right foot do not go well together (and no I don't side step the clutch or keep the throttle pasted over jumps or going between pavement and dirt). From what we gather the one six rib was a little worn out and should have never been rebuilt and I just finished off. The other wasn't in bad shape but I was pounding on the car pretty hard over the 4th and ended that ones life. All in all the first transmission broke twice in the car and the second lasted just seven days. I ordered another transmission from California to run next weekend but I will need to come up with something better. I really cant use a Mendeola because the entire back half of the car is built around the six rib. I can go with an Albins but that is 14k. I have my doubts that a six rib is good to 300hp, more like 200hp.
Here is a picture of what 5k in mostly scrap looks like.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:03 pm 
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Interesting problem. I may be having the same issue with my Honda 3.5 Vtec. I broke my ring gear on my 084 Trans. The Trans is currently getting upgraded with Weddle gears, a new 4.86 racing R&P, 4 star super diff and a torsional input shaft. I am not sure what else I can add. Hopefully, this one will stay together.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:28 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis,IN
How about going with weddles transmission? It's based on the 094 so it should fit without to much work, its cheaper then Albins, 8k if you go with the H1.

https://weddleindustries.com/transaxles ... transaxles

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 12:29 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh,Pa.
All machines fail sooner or later.
It is all about catching the failure point
before it actually gets a chance to fail.
In jet engines, the compressor impeller
blades are checked for cracks every so often.
In Indy cars, the entire rotating assemblies
are replaced after every race.
In aircooled engines, the heads have to
be redone often.
...and in transmissions, the mesh parts
have to keep their original clearance
specs.
Backlash in any drivetrain is your limiting
factor to some degree. It is knowing when
and why your backlash has increased that
is the mystery. Obviously friction causes
an increase in backlash, so lubrication ends
up being an important aspect of a custom
xmission build.
When you make the choice of adding more
weight and horsepower, you must also
consider upgrades above and beyond normal
specs for lubrication and heat management.
In the short term, you could consider the
following:
1) Only beat on a fresh built transmission.
2) Install a temperature sensor in the
xmssion oil bath.
3) Change the xmission oil after hard runs.
4) Inspect the magnetic plug after hard runs
for metal shavings.
5) Record xmission backlash on a spreadsheet
both before and after hard runs.
6) If you ever find metal shavings on a magnetic
plug or an increase in backlash, switch out
the xmssion with a fresh one. Tear down the
failed unit and find the weaknesses.
7) Let an "overheated" xmisson cool down when
needed or add auxiliary cooling systems. Don't
forget that alot of heat generated by your engine
can actually find it's way over into your xmission.
The clutch also gives off an incredible amount of heat,
especially during hard runs where there is always
slippage and friction. Only 100% synthetic oil can
withstand these conditions for any length of time.

After a season or two, longer term solutions involve:
1) tear downs and analysis of the "failed" xmissions.
a) determine which component(s) are failing.
b) If it is gear teeth, try to provide additional
paths and slingers to aid in oil bathing.
c) If it is spiders, consider sending out new units
to be xrayed for inclusions and NDT dye penetrant
testing. Make sure that all fits are in spec.
Consider aftermarket sets with spec sheets
and guarantees.
d) If it is carrier bearings, check for correctly
machined bores (perpendicular and location
position).
e) If it is an end play issue, consider adding
electronic end play sensor(s).

2) Run various types of trails and straightaways.
Record:
a) temperatures, speeds, rpms, etc. This can
be logged with one of the many softwares
available for desert racers.
b) Additional data such as wheel sizes, suspension
travel, clutch action, brake action, tire
slippage, etc. All of this led to traction control
electronics in many road machines!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:50 pm 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
The Road you are on is forked and you must choose your path from here.... One leads to California to Weddle Industries.... The other to Passat's house. The decision is yours.........................................


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 7:42 pm 
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So three Rads or are some Intercoolers?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 8:18 pm 
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Started re-reading from the beginning and answered my own question on the radiators. Looks killer.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:40 pm 
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These Trans issues are still our biggest hurdle I see.
1.) HIGH $$$$ Tansaxles
2.) Passats setup which limits the top end for the sand guys and street drivers.
3.) Chaindrive which has the same drawbacks as passats but more strength at a higher $$$ cost
4.) something we havn't seen yet??????

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:00 am 
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iT'S A 5 SPEED! I NEVER USE 5TH ON THE STREET OR ANYWHERE. 2nd and 3rd are close gears and are the hill climbers. 1st is to pull a broke buggy out of a hole. It's still going strong since '09. If it ever does break, Pull a Part has plenty for $100 . 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:38 pm 
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Location: Dewitt, Michigan
BigScott wrote:
How about going with weddles transmission? It's based on the 094 so it should fit without to much work, its cheaper then Albins, 8k if you go with the H1.

https://weddleindustries.com/transaxles ... transaxles


When I read up on them a few years ago the guys on racedesert said they were not any better than the 094. With my current situation I will educating myself on what's what and will be call Weddle to see what they say.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:49 pm 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
Interesting problem. I may be having the same issue with my Honda 3.5 Vtec. I broke my ring gear on my 084 Trans. The Trans is currently getting upgraded with Weddle gears, a new 4.86 racing R&P, 4 star super diff and a torsional input shaft. I am not sure what else I can add. Hopefully, this one will stay together.


Looks we are working on the same project. Did you call Weddle direct and ask them what their thoughts were? Its going to be between 4 and 5k if I swap out to all Weddle guts depending on what is still usable in my two broken transmissions.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:10 pm 
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The hv2 is salty but should hold it

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:32 pm 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
I just bought an HV1. I almost have it installed. I will post the pics when I do....

Costs to keep in mind above the $8k initial price.

Needs chevy spline clutch disc.
HV1 or HV2

Needs Type 1 starter not Bus

Full hydraulic throw out bearing requires fabrication of clutch pedal back stop

Starter moves to top which hoses alot of people's setups

2 inches narrower so expect to buy axles again

2" longer from center of CV to face of bell housing.

R&P are huge so center of trans sits 1" lower

Bellhousing is thicker and requires long bolts at all 4 corners.

A thing to consider about the HV25... They said it is 4 or 6" longer than HV1

Also Richmond power Trax locking diff is $400 extra

I went with the HV1 over the 2 because I could get a steeper 1st gear in the HV1.

There is no way this can break as easy as an 094....



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:40 pm 
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Also Shawn at Weddle was very helpful and informed me of all these costs before I spent a dime.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:18 pm 
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Do like Passat and save massive money and put your kids thru college and they will float your early retirement. OR! you can put Weedles' kids thru college so he can. I've done tried it... There are no naked women or Hooter Girls at the tops of these climbs. Passat's trans AND Weedles don't break.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:59 pm 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
Passat... That two paths comment was meant with nothing but respect. You do it different, but you do it every damn weekend and unlike some I will never knock you for it... I may knock on your door some day with a buggy and beer if I am ever down that way...


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 6:18 am 
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Does the hv1 and the mendeola run the same size 1 through 4 gears and are they the same as the 091 gear? That what I was told

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:21 am 
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The HV1 uses the same size gears as an 094 (1-4 and full size reverse) but all weddle gears... After that it is a whole different animal. Larger bearings, tapered bearings, 10" r&p, also close to 40lbs. heavier.


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